Check that the following components are present in the DIY kit package.
(Contact us if you see any issues with your kit)

• Main chassis
  
• Pogo-pin Connector PCB and its PCB holder (remove the connector from the holder before soldering).
  
• Kill Switch, Positive Battery tab (button plate) and Negative battery tab.
  
• Blade Connector PCB and its PCB Holder, and a Spacer Ring.
  
• RFID Coil (this isn’t used for the install but only included for testing purposes – note that the crystal detection is less efficient due to its shape, but still allows to test the RFID before final installation).
  
• Pogo-pins set (14 short pins and 7 long pins)
  
• Hall Sensor PCB Replacement and RFID PCB
  
• Middle PCB Replacement (to be handled with extra care)
  
• Pogo-pins Blade Connector PCB, and Proffieboard v2 soundboard (to be handled with extra care)
  
• Pogo-pins Blade Connector cap
  
• Chassis Connector PCB (comes attached on the main chassis)
  
  
• PTFE Wires –
  22AWG for battery pos and neg, and NPXL pos and Neg.
  28 AWG for all the rest.
  or 
  22AWG for battery pos and neg, and NPXL pos and Neg.
  28 AWG for the speaker
  30 AWG for the rest
  
• 28mm Bass Speaker
  
• 18650 Keepower protected battery
  
• 2 x LED Strips WS2812B 144 LEDs / m
  

There isn’t much difficulty in dismounting the core. Make sure however to store the screws separately and write down where each are going to make the re-assembly easier.

Step 1 – Unscrew the bottom tube (4 screws) and slide down the battery module holder a bit, revealing 2 more screws.

Step 2 – Remove the bottom ring from the battery module holder (sliding it down) and unscrew the 2 screws

Step 3 – Open the chassis and gently take out the electronics. Be extra careful with the RFID coil that will be re-used in the new installation.

Step 4 – Unplug the 2 connectors shown below, so that the electronic components are free.

Step 5 – Unscrew the top tube (4 screws) and slide it up. The cables will slide up a bit through  the wire channel in the Crystal Chamber. (These wires won’t be re-used so they can be cut at this point to make thing easier).

Step 6 – Remove the clear ring and the top plastic ring

Step 7 – The chassis can now also be opened by unscrewing the remaining screw

Step 8 – You can now gently remove the components.

Step 9 – The blade connector needs to be dismounted as well. This will involve either cutting or unsoldering the wires.

Step 10 – Put aside the following components, they will be re-used in the upgrade.
– The top connector PCB holder and its 3 screws- The RFID Coil (wires to be carefully unsoldered from the PCB

– The Hall effect sensor (switch sensor) 

It needs to be unsoldered from its PCB (it will be installed on the upgraded PCB).

– The crystal detect switch, also needs to be unsoldered from its PCB – remember well its original position and it will be the same on the upgraded PCB.

The blade is also very easy to dismount, and again, put aside and mark down what screw goes where.

Step 1 – Unscrew the blade connector (3 scews), and open it.

Step 2 – slide down the led strip and open the bottom holder. 
Gently put aside the blade tube, the foam tube, the 4 blade holder plastic sides and the metal guides.
Just discard the LED strip and its connector, these won’t be re-used.

A few modifications are required to the original core parts in order to accept the new chassis.

Step 1 – Gently sand down (dremel sand drum) the lips on the bottom core chassis.

Make sure the area is well round and polished. You can already verify that the upgraded chassis slides in correctly.

Step 2 – Cut away the marked lips completely (sharp knife or dremel) to make space for the RFID reader board


You can already check the RFID reader PCB fits properly, as follow

Step 3 – Bore out a bit the hole of the crystal holder to allow more light to pass through and make the crystal shine better (again, careful with the RFID coil). A 2.5mm drill bit can be used here, not more otherwise the crystal might sink too low and cause issue with the crystal detection switch.

Step 4 – On the upper chassis, a small wire channel is cut on the side to make the install easier (and avoid bulky connectors that can handle the neopixel high amperage)

Step 5 – Still on that upper chassis part, file down the marked screw holder. This is to give room to the upgraded PCB pixels (the point is to avoid a pixel to be caught and broken).

Step 6 – On the there side upper part, the screw socket is cut to be flat as well on the bottom.

Step 7 – The clear plastic ring is cut to allow it to be installed last (allows to expand it and slide it from the top).

Plan ahead the wiring and understand the install perfectly before starting. Here is a Proffieboard wiring example that matches the config loaded on the Proffie and SD Card.

Wire gauge reminder:
22AWG for battery pos and neg, and NPXL pos and Neg.
28 AWG for all the rest.
or 
22AWG for battery pos and neg, and NPXL pos and Neg.
28 AWG for the speaker
30 AWG for the rest

The soundboard is installed with the USB port facing up, and oriented toward the pommel. The board image bellow will simulate how you would look at the board while wiring it and the direction taken by the wires:

Wiring Diagram 1 – Main chassis wiring
 

Wiring Diagram 2 – RFID reader PCB and hall sensor PCB wiring

Wiring Diagram 3 – Emitter and Blade wiring

Savi’s Core Version – There have been a slight change on Savi’s Core (unsure at which point of time it happened but it is likely that a new batch was produced with Savi’s Wave 2 design refresh).
Here is how to identify which version you have:

This is the only difference we have spotted, the core channel that guides the chassis in is a bit narrower on the 2nd Gen.
The upgraded chassis has been designed with the 1st Gen, and will require a small modification to work properly with the 2nd Gen original core parts. About 1.6mm need to be removed on this area:

Step 0 – It is highly recommended to test all components out of the chassis prior to the final installation. This will allow to confirm they are working fine. For example, wire the Proffieboard to the connectors and other PCB to check the pixels are working.

Step 1 – Insert the lower chassis negative battery tab. It will be soldered from the speaker holder.
Note: test how the battery is fitting, if too loose, the negative tab can be opened a bit further to provide more pressure on the battery.

Step 2 – Wire the kill switch (it is recommended to use a bit of heatshrink tubing to insulate the connections), and press it into its slot (secure it with glue if too loose).

Step 3 – Solder the kill switch wires onto the negative battery tab.

Step 4 – Solder the wires on the following PCB. Refer to the diagram on top of this chapter.

Step 5 – Pass the wires through the chassis (make sure to respect on which side each wire has to go to make the proffie install easier. Then, solder the positive battery tab and glue it in its slot.

Step 6 – Glue the PCB connector in it slot, the is a notch on the PCB that matches the chassis to allow correct clocking.

Step 7 – Wire and glue the speaker in its slot

Step 8 – Install the proffie and glue it in its slot

Step 9 – Glue the hall sensor to the following PCB, we perpendicular. This will just help the soldering process next.

Step 10 – Solder the hall sensor.

Step 11 – Solder the short pins on the PCB

Step 12 – Glue the Pogo-Pin PCB in it’s holder, with the notch to guide the correct clocking.
Then solder the wires to the top PCB (see diagrams at the top of the chapter).

Step 13 – Wire the RFID Reader board, then insert everything into their respective slots.
 

Step 14 – A proper wire management is required, so that all will fit in their place and the chassis can be closed without issues.

Step 15 – once the chassis closed, put back the screws and bottom plastic ring, then feed the wires through the Crystal Chamber channel.

Step 16 – Glue the switch on the PCB then solder it.
Be extra careful about the pixels on top of the PCB, they must not be broken or the blade won’t work.

Step 17 – Solder the PCB, as shown (the right length of wires is required here to have the PCB sliding into the top chassis but not too much wire slack either).

Step 18 – Install the pins on the top Pogo-pin connector. Make sure the pins are well aligned. It is highly recommended to use the plastic cap to help guiding them. Then solder the 3 wires.
 

Additional work on the PCB might be required before soldering the pins, as a small bug was found on the notch placement. The notch can be slightly offset to its correct position, and some light sanding is require to expand the notch on the right in order to fit the PCB holder correctly.
The clear part can be used to check the correct notch position.

If the notch isn’t already correct, 1 or 2mm sanding will be needed (quite easy with hand file, and there is no risk on the circuit on that right side). once done, check the fitment into the PCB holder.

Step 19 – Add the PCB support ring into the original Savi holder

Step 20 – Install the connector and its cap into the original holder and add the 3 screws to secure it.

Here again the right length of wires is key, as the PCB assemble back into the chassis after.

Step 21 – Solder the NPXL connector to the pixel ring PCB, and install the assembly in the chassis.

Be extra careful when sliding in the bottom PCB, it has a correct way to enter and have the crystal detect switch back in its slot.

Make sure to test the blade mechanism, push / twist / release, to see that it will work fine and the wires are at the right length. Also make sure the blade connector is well oriented, like shown below.

Step 22 – Add the Crystal detect part with its spring at the bottom of the chassis. This is a bit tricky as it must be held in place while assembling the other chassis half and locking tight everything.
Important: make sure the PCB is well flush and flat before closing the 2nd upper part on the 1st. If not a pixel could be pushed by the screw socket and be brokeN (which will need replacement for this PCB).
Once assembled, add the screw back to the chassis.

Step 23 – Now the wires must be managed properly so that the top chassis can assemble with the Crystal chamber without pinching them. Pull down the lower chassis while sliding in the upper one, so that the wires are at their shortest on the top side. Then once the top locked in, there is enough space on top of the bottom pogo-pin connector to very gently push the wires back inside.

Step 24 – Add the clear plastic ring. The cut will be covered and won’t show.

Step 25 – Screw both bottom and top tubes back in place. Then finish by adding back the top black plastic ring.
The core is now upgraded and ready to be played with 🙂

There are many different type of switch styles (even more since the refresh in 2023), however, they all work according to the same principal (as the core remain the same).
Sliding the switch up, it will lock itself in upper position, which will position a magnet over the hall sensor in the core. As long as said magnet remain in position over the sensor, Savi’s Lightsaber core remains activated.

This would be considered as a latching switch, which won’t be compatible with the Proffieboard OS.
The trick here will thus be to make that switch act as a momentary switch. Which means we just want to avoid that the switch locks itself in its upper position. This way, the switch can be quickly pushed up, then down and would act as a single click on a normal button.

If possible, a spring could also be added to add a spring loaded return after the switch has been pushed up.

The following is given as an example using a Gen1 Power and Control style box.

Step 1 – Unscrew the black cap (4 screws)

Step 2 – Loosen the magnet holder part screw a bit, until the switch won’t lock anymore and it’s easy to push up and down.

Optional (depending on the control box structure) – Add a spring above the switch lever to make it return to its original position. We used a pen spring for this, which are pretty easy to come up with.

We are simply replacing the original LED strip by a WS2812B Neopixel strip here. But there are also way to improve the blade brightness.

Step 1 (optional but highly recommended) – Sand the blade and tip with 1000 grit sandpaper. It improves light diffusion.

After a good sanding the blade will look much less being like made of 2 clear and white plastic tubes and will looks nicer compared to the original (on the picture, upgraded on top and original at the bottom)

Step 2 – (optional and recommended) – Lower the gap of the WS strips junction.
There is a junction at half of the strip that have an additional gap compared to other pixels (the junction can be spotted easily as the pads are soldered).
This can create a slight shadow gap on the blade and here is how it can be remediated:
Cut the junction

Cut both sides pads slightly, leaving just enough copper for soldering them again

Join the strips, well flat, in order to solder the junction again.

For extra strength, we had a bit of pre-tinned wire to each pad junction

Then check the strip is well straight, and test resistance and function

The strip are longer than what’s needed for the blade length, which gives permission for mistakes at this step. For instance, if a pad is cut too short, just pass to the next pixel and retry the junction.

Step 3 – Lower the strips length – “pre” cut it to a close correct length (so leaving a bit more pixels than necessary as final adjustment occurs later. 
Note: The below picture shows the final length of our strip. However, SK strips were used in this prototype, the final kit comes with WS strips. So best to follow the steps and calculate the right length at step 6.
Also, Savi’s blade can come in different length.

Step 4 – Attach the strip back to back with double sided tape. make sure to have the pixel in steps as shown below (this helps light diffusion) and test it.

Step 5 (optional and can be skipped – not provided with the kit) – we inserted the strips into a clear heatshrink tubing (that was previously sanded to have it more opaque). 

Step 6 – Wire the 2 strips. WS strips provided in the kits are already wired and we recommend to use them as delivered.

Step 7 – Time to cut the strips to the right length. Assemble the wires as shown and insert the strip into the blade socket. Then check the strip length with the blade and correct it to the right perfect length by removing one or 2 pixels if necessary. In the next step, we also add a last single pixel facing top, so you have to also account for that.

Step 8 (optional and recommended – cut a single pixel from the led strip) – A single pixel facing top is installed at the end of the blade, this was to help the fact that the original blade has a clear tip and to make it shine.
(note that the pixel pictured on this prototype isn’t provided in the DIY kit, as a single pixel can be cut directly from the same led strip and glued on top in perpendicular position)

Step 9 – Insert the strips into the foam tube.

Step 10 (optional – not provided with the kit) – it is also possible to help diffusion adding few layers of clear gift wrap around the foam tube. These wrap are widely used (florist, etc..) and easy to find.

Step 11 – Insert the blade strip assembly into the blade tubes.

Step 12 – Bridge the wires and feed them back into the holder

Step 13 – Add the custom PCB holder provided with the kit and wire the PCB.

The face marked bottom sits at the bottom.

Step 14 – Add the metal guide parts and the outer shell. screw everything back together and it’s done.

1 Button Controls

Terminology:

Click = do short click (so Double Click is two short clicks in quick succession)
Long Click = hold button for 1 second and release
Hold = hold button down
Click and Hold = hold on Xth click (so Double Click and Hold would be click twice and hold on second click)
Click + Long Click = do X clicks then do long click (so Double Click + Long Click would be click twice then do a long click)
Clash = hit the saber
Hold + Clash = hit the saber while holding the main button 

Standard Controls While Blade is OFF

• Turn On / Ignite Saber* = Click
  *If the saber has not been used for a while (asleep) first Click will Wake up motion detection and boot sound will play
• Turn On / Ignite Saber (Muted) = Click + Long Click
• Start / Stop Music Tracks = Double Click (pointing straight up)
• Track Player = Double Click (parallel or down)
  Turn Right (Stepped) = Next Track
  Turn Left (Stepped) = Previous Track
  Click button = Play Current Track Once
  Hold button = Random (will play current track and then randomly select next tracks)
  Hold button + Turn Right = Rotate (will play current track and then next sequential tracks)
  Hold button + Turn Left = Loop Current Track
• Force/Quote Player – Triple Click
  If quotes exist in current font pointing straight down will toggle between Force/Quote and play
  *Quotes play sequentially 1,2,3…
  If parallel will do Force/Quote based on current mode
  Special Abilities (Style Controlled) (requires FETT263_SPECIAL_ABILITIES)
  Hold PWR + Turn Right (parallel or up) = Special Ability 5 (USER5)
  Hold PWR + Turn Left (parallel or up) = Special Ability 6 (USER6)
  Hold PWR + Turn Right (pointing down) = Special Ability 7 (USER7)
  Hold PWR + Turn Left (pointing down) = Special Ability 8 (USER8)
• Next Preset = Long Click  (parallel or up)
• Previous Preset = Long Click  (pointing down)
• Scroll Presets (using twist menu) = Hold
  Turn Right (Stepped) = Next Preset
  Turn Left (Stepped) = Previous Preset
  Click button = Select Preset
  Hold button = Select and Ignite Preset
  Long Click button = First Preset
• Volume Menu = Hold + Clash (parallel or up)
  Turn Right (Stepped) = Increase Volume (to max)
  Turn Left (Stepped) = Decrease Volume (to min)
  Click button = Exit
• Battery Level* = Double Click + Long Click
  Point down for volts, parallel or up for percent

Standard Controls While Blade is ON

• Turn Off / Retract Blade = Hold
• Clash Effect = Clash Saber
• Lockup Effect = Hold + Clash
• Lightning Block = Double Click and Hold
• Blast Effect = Click / Double Click / Triple Click
• Multi-Blast Mode = Hold + Swing
  Each Swing in Multi-Blast Mode will deflect Blast effect
  To exit, click PWR or do Clash
• Force/Quote = Long Click 
  If pointing down will toggle Force/Quote mode and do Force Effect or play Quote accordingly
  *Quote plays sequentially
  If parallel will do Force/Quote
• Stop Track* – Double Click 
  *if track is playing while ON
  To start/select track saber must be OFF
• Color Change = 4 Clicks (parallel or down)
• Color Zoom* = Double Click and Hol, Release to Save
  *For Color List or ColorWheel you can Hold PWR down to zoom in color for easier selection
  Release PWR to save

Edit Mode (for information)

Enter Edit Mode = While Off, Double Click and Hold
While in Edit Mode controls are as follows:
Rotate Forward, Increase Value, Confirm “Yes” = Turn Right (Stepped)
Increment by 5 (Fonts, Tracks, Blade Length) = Hold PWR + Turn Right
Increment by 500 (Ignition Time, Ignition Delay, Retraction Time, Retraction Delay) = Hold PWR + Turn Right
Increment by 5000 (Ignition Option2, Retraction Option2) = Hold PWR + Turn Right
Rotate Back, Decrease Value, Confirm “No” = Turn Left (Stepped)
Increment by 5 (Fonts, Tracks, Blade Length) = Hold PWR + Turn Left
Increment by 500 (Ignition Time, Ignition Delay, Retraction Time, Retraction Delay) = Hold PWR + Turn Left
Increment by 5000 (Ignition Option2, Retraction Option2) = Hold PWR + Turn Left
Select, Save, Enter = Click button
Cancel, Revert, Go Back = Long Click button
Go to Main Menu (from sub-menu) – Hold button
Exit Edit Mode – Hold button (or rotate to “Exit”) while in Main Menu

ProffieBoard v2.2

The Proffieboard v2.2 config file can be found on the SD card itself.
Please read this page if you want to update your soundboard config using a USB cable:
https://fredrik.hubbe.net/lightsaber/proffieos.html

Battery handling
– Make sure to always insert the battery in the right way with the positive toward the top / connector PCB (button top battery toward the button pad).
– Switch the soundboard module off (kill switch) while operating the battery.
– In the event the battery is inserted backwards and the soundboard is started, a protection component will fry on the soundboard which will make is inoperative. The soundboard will then have to be replaced.
– Neopixel blade are bright and also power angry. That’s why it is essential to use only protected Li-ion 3.7v batteries with 10A to 15A discharge protection circuit. If you want a second battery, We recommend the same brand as the kit, Keepower.

Battery charge
– If the saber sound starts crackling, this means the battery is running out of power.
– If the blade color hue starts to lean toward redish, this also means the battery is running out of power.
– Recharge the battery with a 18650 Li-ion charger. They are easy to find and usually cheap (example)

Blade
– The Pixel strip inside the upgraded blade can withstand light dueling. It is however not recommended at all to perform strong duel with these sabers.

Customer Support
If you have any issues with your build or parts, please contact this email