Tutorial for Solo Sabers / SP Sabers Raxus SK (2024) Master Chassis
This replica is one of the best Starlkiller we had in hands, and it allowed a really cool Master Chassis design thanks to the magnetic window on the side. Nice view to the spinning Crystal Chamber but also easy access to the main switch!
Magnets:
– 16 x 2mmx1mm Magnets
Rods and Tubes:
– 2 x 1.5mmOD rods with 40.5mm length
– 2 x 1.5mmOD rods with 61mm length
– 3 x 3mmOD tubes with 20mm length
Introduction
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Disclaimer
GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers during their install. You must have a good understanding of what you’re doing, of the components used and the safety measures associated to them. Always wear protective gear when working on install (gloves, eye protection, …), GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible in case of accident.
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Note #1
Always use the smallest wires to make your install easier. There can be big differences between one wire type and another for the same AWG specs. PTFE Wires with the smallest OD are recommended such as those sold at The Saber Armory. A good wire management is also required, routing wires properly helps a lot saving space.
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Note #2
These instructions will not cover how to wire the soundboard, make sure to learn how to by reading the manual. We have also typical soundboards wiring available in the Padawan Tutorials. Always test your install along the way! Verifying that everything works after important steps is better than having to dismount everything because something wasn’t wired properly.
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Note #3
3D printed parts can have very slight accuracy variations. In some rare cases, some sanding or hole deburring can be required. Additionally, metal parts can arrive a bit bent, but are normally easy to bend back into shape. Consult the FAQ if you encounter issues with parts that cannot be solved easily.
Installation Guide
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Step 1 – Chassis parts preparation and fitment tests
The kill switch cover is to be cut away for the crystal chamber door (Dremel).
The chassis parts can be weathered at this stage.Step 2 – Cut the tubes and glue them in the Crystal Chamber
Step 3 – Wire and install the pixel ring (to be glued in its slot)
Step 4 – Wire and install the motor (to be glued in its slot)
Step 5 – Feed the wires into the tubes and insert the motor holder into the Crystal Chamber (to be glued)
Step 6 – Insert the spinning part into the Crystal Chamber and glue it on the motor stem (being extra careful not to glue it on the motor itself). Test the motor.
Step 7 – Insert the 1.5mmOD rods and add the Crystal Chamber door (after gluing its magnets)
Step 9 – Install the negative battery tab, the solder the wire on its back
Step 10 – Pass the negative wire through the kill switch slot, then wire the kill switch and glue it in place (make sure the switch is well flush into its slot.
Step 11 – Glue the crystal on the crystal holder. Add and wire the single pixel behind it.
Step 12 – Manage the wires and insert the crystal holder on the chassis (some of the wires can pass behind the crystal holder to be on the right side of the soundboard.
Test the assembly:Step 13 – Install the soundboard, to be glued in its slot once wired.
Step 14 – Wire and glue the positive battery tab in its slot.
Step 15 – Glue the magnets on the speaker cover.
Step 16 – Insert the 1.5mmOD rods.
Step 17 – Install the accent pixel strip on top of the soundboard.
Step 18 – Install the front crystal holder and crystal
Step 19 – Cut the 1mmOD tubes by measuring them directly from the holes, and glue them to lock the crystal chamber to the chassis.
Step 20 – Slide in and glue the soundboard cover. (a diffusion plastic can be added under it).
Step 21 – (optional) An add-on can be glued into the top hilt Crystal Chamber
Step 22 – Lock the chassis into the top hilt body with the retention screw.
or with the add-on
Step 23 – Wire the NPXL connector and install it into its holder. Then look the holder into the hilt body with its retention screw.
Step 25 – Install the switches in the activation box, then screw the box on the shroud.
Insert the shroud onto the hilt body and bridge the wires (wire excess can be fed back behind the motor).