Lukyanov Creepy Uncle V2 (2024) Master Chassis
Our Creepy Uncle Master Chassis has been updated for this new hilt version, with an improved Crystal Chamber design including a pixel ring behind the crystal for cool lighting effects!
Magnets:
– 2mmx2mm x 8
Rods and Tubes
– 4mmOD Tubes – 1 tube with 22mm Length
– 1.5mmOD Rods – 2 rods with 55mm Length
– 1mmOD Rods – 2 rods with 68mm Length
Introduction
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Disclaimer
GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers during their install. You must have a good understanding of what you’re doing, of the components used and the safety measures associated to them. Always wear protective gear when working on install (gloves, eye protection, …), GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible in case of accident.
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Note #1
Always use the smallest wires to make your install easier. There can be big differences between one wire type and another for the same AWG specs. PTFE Wires with the smallest OD are recommended such as those sold at The Saber Armory. A good wire management is also required, routing wires properly helps a lot saving space.
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Note #2
These instructions will not cover how to wire the soundboard, make sure to learn how to by reading the manual. We have also typical soundboards wiring available in the Padawan Tutorials. Always test your install along the way! Verifying that everything works after important steps is better than having to dismount everything because something wasn’t wired properly.
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Note #3
3D printed parts can have very slight accuracy variations. In some rare cases, some sanding or hole deburring can be required. Additionally, metal parts can arrive a bit bent, but are normally easy to bend back into shape. Consult the FAQ if you encounter issues with parts that cannot be solved easily.
Quick Install Guide
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Prepare the parts (cutting, weathering, … etc)


Glue the crystal in its slot
Glue the magnets on the 2 cover parts and the chassis

Glue the 4mmOD Rod
Assemble the 2 cover parts with the 1.5mmOD rods.

Glue the rods making sure the parts are well spaced out.
Install the OLED cover and glue the 1mmOD Rods

Use a sharp knife to chamfer slightly the crystal pixel holder, as shown:

Wire and install the blade side PCB in its holder

Once glued, insert the PCB holder and glue it at the bottom of the grenade section

Note: to avoid unwanted movement of the neck parts, we use a thread locker
Install the NPXL connector in its holder, then wire it

Push back down the wires into the neck and glue the connector into the emitter.
Install the negative battery tab and wire it to the NPXL + Speaker PCB. Next wire the positive wire and speaker wires, and then glue the PCB in its slot



Install temporarily the Pogo pin side connector into the upper chassis and test the fitment of the battery module including the speaker. If too tight (can happen due to printing tolerances or depending on the speaker brand), then sand the bottom of the speaker holder until the fit is good.
Wire and glue the kill switch into its slot. This kill switch can be skipped if you’d want to use only the one in the control box.

Wire and glue the positive pad into its slot.

Finally wire and glue the speaker into its slot, making sure it is well aligned (the bottom of the hilt can be used to check that).


Wire and glue the OLED screen in its slot.


Wire the NPXL + Speaker connector and glue it in its slot inside the upper chassis.

Then organise the wires as shown (open the channel under the control box with a sharp knife, if you find it too narrow – some chassis had an error in that area).

Wire the soundboard, and install the accent pixel strip on top.


A clear plastic sheet can be sanded and glued under the cover for better diffusion
Wire and install the pixel ring at the top of the chamber

Wire and glue the single pixel in its slot

Make sure to test things regularly


Wire and install the NPXL connector in its slot

Insert the chassis into the hilt bode and lock it with the control box long screw. Then manage the wires into the channel
There will be a little slot to cut from the control box chassis in order for the screw to pass.
The switches slots will also need to be adjusted using a sharp knife. Cut the inner walls until the switches fit snug.
Install the control box chassis and the switches


Install a 2nd kill switch. This kill switch can be skipped (not an easy install) if you’d want to use only the one on the chassis.


Install the accent 3mm red and green LED (resistor needed for the red one)

Insert the arrows, and install the triangle ring on the pommel

It’s done!
