Tutorial for KR Lost Acolyte (2023) Master Chassis
This Master Chassis features a fully removable core an imposing Crystal Chamber design including a spinning blade generator. There are also pixel rings on the back and front allowing cool lighting setup!
Demo
Rods and Tubes:
– 2 x 1.5mmOD rods with 88mm Length
– 2 x 1.5mmOD rods with 68mm Length
– 1 x 1mmOD rods with 40mm length
– 2 x 3mmOD tubes with 90mm length
– 3 x 2mmOD tubes with 62mm length
Magnets:
– 2mmx2mm NeoDymium Magnets x8
Introduction
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Disclaimer
GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers during their install. You must have a good understanding of what you’re doing, of the components used and the safety measures associated to them. Always wear protective gear when working on install (gloves, eye protection, …), GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible in case of accident.
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Note #1
Always use the smallest wires to make your install easier. There can be big differences between one wire type and another for the same AWG specs. PTFE Wires with the smallest OD are recommended such as those sold at The Saber Armory. A good wire management is also required, routing wires properly helps a lot saving space.
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Note #2
These instructions will not cover how to wire the soundboard, make sure to learn how to by reading the manual. We have also typical soundboards wiring available in the Padawan Tutorials. Always test your install along the way! Verifying that everything works after important steps is better than having to dismount everything because something wasn’t wired properly.
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Note #3
3D printed parts can have very slight accuracy variations. In some rare cases, some sanding or hole deburring can be required. Additionally, metal parts can arrive a bit bent, but are normally easy to bend back into shape. Consult the FAQ if you encounter issues with parts that cannot be solved easily.
KR-Sabers’ Overview Video
Installation Guide
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Step 0 – Prepare the parts and test the chassis fitment before starting th install. Parts weathering, rod cutting, … etc can be done at this stage.
The main chassis has 3 parts to be cut away from it:
– a speaker ring
– the NPXL and motor holder
– a small plate for the switch PCB
Step 1 – Front assembly. Insert the NPXL / Motor holder part into the front part (making sure to properly align the tubes holes. Then glue the 3mmOD tubes.
Step 2 – Motor install. Glue the spinning part on the motor stem (making sure not to glue it on the motor itself). Then insert the motor assembly and glue it in its slot.
Step 3 – Add and glue the .9mmOD Rod as shown
Step 4 – Install the 2mmOD tubes as shown
Step 5 – Switch PCB install.
Glue the PCB on the plastic plate
Add a small notch to the PCB to ease the NPXL LED wires passage to the front.
Solder the 4 NPXL wires and pass them into the front part
Insulate the pads for extra safety.
Glue the switch PCB assembly in place, then pass the 3 switch wires in each of the 2mmOD tube.
Step 6 – Assemble the crystal chamber.
Add the CC cage and glue the front and back together.
Add and glue the 1.5mmOD rods
Step 7 – Pixel ring install. Glue the pixel ring on the clear ring part.
The NPXL data 1 is chained in series with the switch PCB pixels and pixels ring.
Step 8 – Install the NPXL connector.
Step 9 – Install the plasma gate and crystal. Install the single pixel on the crystal and the 2020 strip in the plasma gate. Glue the crystal to the plasma gate.
Insert them in the CC.
Step 10 – Install the negative battery tab.
The wire can go on the side as shown
Step 11 – Install the kill switch.
Step 12 – Join the parts and manage wires.
Step 13 – Install the clear ring and pixel ring in the chassis back.
Step 14 – Install the soundboard.
Make sure the wires going to the back are well flat, or the cover will not fit flush.
Step 15 – Glue the cover magnets.
Step 16 – Bridge the positive wires and glue the positive battery tab.
Step 17 – Install the speaker, and add the speaker cover on top.
Done!
