Video pending.

These DIY instructions are showing the prototype build, some minor design changes have been done afterward and will be commented accordingly.

Step 1 – Prepare the chassis parts, rods and tubes, … including weathering if relevant.
 
There are 3 parts to be separated (cutting wheel):

If using the Fallen EP, there are 2 parts to be separated

Step 2 – Glue the 2 x 3mmOD Tubes in the Crystal Chamber.
Note that on the final version, the crystal holder is inserted from behind at a later stage (after the motorised part install), while on these pictures is already shown as glued in the CC.

Step 3 – Manage the wires in the tubes.

Step 4 – Glue these 2 parts together as shown, which becomes the motor holder assembly.

Step 5 – Glue the magnets on the motor holder assembly and sliding doors.

Step 6 – In this step, we had the motor holder assembly, the 2 doors and the 1.5mmOD tubes to hold them in place. Start by placing the motor holder assembly into the CC, then add the 2 doors on each sides, then the 1.5mmOD rods to lock them.

Next glue the motor assembly in the front CC section (make sure to glue it well, using the rod as guides). The 2 rods can also be glued at this point on the motor holder assembly.

Step 7 – Glue the spinning part on the motor, then insert and glue the motor / spinning part into the motor holder assembly.

Step 8 – Glue the crystal into its holder part, then insert the crystal holder part and glue it on the back on the CC.

Step 9 – Wire the accent pixel and glue it into the crystal (if using the resin crystal, drill a slot for the pixel at its back).

Step 10 – If the Fallen EP is planned to be used, a custom connector is installed on the back of the CC.
First, glue the 3mmx2mm magnets on each part or the connector.
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Step 11 – Cut the pin sockets (2 x 2 sockets bar, 1 x 5 sockets bar), wire them, then glue them into the plastic connector.
There are 2 wires for the speaker, 3 wires for NPXL accent strip and 4 wires for the OLED screen.

Step 12 – Glue the connector at the back of the crystal holder.

Step 13 – Glue the 2 x 2mmOD tubes in their slots.

Step 14 – Wire and insert the OLED into the extension pod.

Step 15 – Add the metal part and other wires. Lock the metal part with the 1.5mmOD rods. Then a first OLED test can be done, by wiring and gluing the pins bars in their slots.

Step 16 – Install the accent plasma gate.

Foam diffuser can be used to improve the lighting effects.

Step 17 – Wire and glue the remaining pins bar into its slot.

Step 18 – Wire and install the Fallen EP Plasma Gate

Note we do the strip a bit longer than the plasma clear part, so that light also shine through the bottom of the metal part.

Make sure the wires are well setup for the speaker to pass. Her we’ve glued them into the wire channel.

Step 19 – Wire the speaker, it gets inserted for the side. You can add the covers to make sure the speaker is well centered.

Step 20 – Wire the crystal pixel in series with the strip and glue the crystal in its place.

Step 21 – Install the 5 pins bar

Step 22 – Glue the speaker covers.

Step 23 – Glue the 3mmOD tubes in the front chassis

Step 24 – Glue the soundboard cover magnets.

Step 25 – Add the following part on the CC assembly (and glue it on the 1.5mmOD rods), managing the wires while doing so. Then add and glue the 3mmOD tubes.

Step 26 – Install the pixel ring on the main chassis

Step 27 – Install the negative battery tab

Step 28 – Join the main chassis to the CC assembly, managing the wires while doing so. 

The chassis can be glued once verified everything fits fine and works.

Step 29 – Install the soundboard

Side note: if the the same Master Chassis is planned to be used in the Crossguard hilt, we recommend to plan a second data line going to the chassis connector (for the delayed side blade ignition). The button 2 pad of the connector can be used for this Data2 line.

Step 30 – Install the positive battery tab and the associated Kill Switch.

When done with the kill switch (glued in its slot), then glue the positive tab in its slot as well.

Step 31 – Test again, then glue the soundboard in its slot.

Step 32 – Install the duplicated main switch, and check it is well centered with the soundboard cover and front ring

Step 31 – Glue the front ring in place, and then wire and glue the connector PCB.

Step 32 – Install the connector, then insert it into the hilt body.
A BladeID resistor can be added to the connector, to identify to which hilt the chassis is connected (main hilt or Crossguard). It is recommended if you plan on swapping the same chassis between the main hilt and the Crossguard hilt. Refer to the Proffieboard manual for more information about Blade ID.
The black inner sleeve will lock the connector in place.

Test the main switch. We have seen some variations on the hilt switch and it is better to remove it, insert the switch / connector holder part, then screw back the switch plunger in place.

Step 33 – Install the blade connector and glue it in its holder. Then insert the holder into the hilt emitter and lock it using the retention screws.

Due to the way the hilt is designed and manufactured, this step isn’t easy and requires patience to feed back the excess of wires into the hilt neck, until the blade connector is sitting flush into the emitter to be locked by the top retention screws.

Note that is is possible to cut the holder tube shorter to allow more space for the wires in the hilt neck:
       

Step 1 – Prepare the chassis parts, rods and tubes, … including weathering if relevant.
The CC insert have to be separated (cut)

Step 2 – Glue the CC insert behind the speaker holder, and add the 1mmOD rods.

Step 3 – Glue the 2mmOD tubes (the main chassis is used for proper alignment).

Step 3 – Glue the crystal into its holder.

Step 4 – 1mmOD tubes are used around the crustal, for aesthetic but also to retain the crystal holder into the crystal chamber part. First with glue the 5 tubes that won’t extend outside the crystal holder.

Then the crystal holder is glued into the CC (using 1mmOD rods for alignment.

and finally we add and glue the rest of the tubes (7)

Step 5 – Install the 22mm speaker

Step 6 – Install the crystal pixel (drill a slot for the pixel in the resin crystal if needed).

Step 7 – Install the side pixel strips, and glue the 3mmOD tubes in the back

Step 8 – Install the negative battery tab and its associated kill switch (switch to be glued in its slot).

Step 9 – Join the chassis and CC, and manage the wires through the tubes. Limit the number of wires by bridging the side strips positive wires. Glue the chassis to the CC once tested everything works fine.

Step 10 – Glue the front 3mmOD tubes

Step 11 – Install the positive battery tab

Step 12 – Install the front accent strip

Step 13 – Install the soundboard, and glue it in place once tested ok.

Step 14 – Glue the front clear part and soundboard cover magnets

Step 15 – Add the front metal part and install the switches, and the front connector PCB.

Step 16 – Install the connector (pogo-pins side) into its holder

Once glued in its slot, insert the connector holder into the upper hilt, using the main chassis to clock it properly for the switches to be aligned with their respective plungers. Secure the connector holder with the emitter bottom retention screws.

Step 17 – Wire and glue the blade connector into its holder, then lock the holder into the emitter using the top retention screws.

Since we are using the same main chassis into the Crossguard, the install is the same as the main hilt (with a few differences, as there are 2 switches on the chassis connector, plus the use of side blades.

A small adjustment is needed to the connector holder, which consist in cutting 2 wire channels at 90 degree from the switch position:
 

Plan the pogo-pin connector to allow 2 side blade to be installed, and instead of using the button 2 pad as Aux Switch, we use it for Data 2 in order to manage the 2 side blades delayed ignition.
The crossguard is thus installed like the main hilt with 1 button setup, and both the crossguard buttons are wired on Button 1 pad.

Same as the main hilt, remove the switches plungers before inserting the chassis connector. The brass 4mm height switches could need minor sanding to fit properly.

Next, install the side blades and connectors.

The excess of wire length can be pushed back into the hilt.

And finish by the main blade connector, same as the main hilt.