Tutorial for KR V2 Custom Chassis
1- 3D printed Chassis parts:
Shapeways Shop Section ⇒ C3 – KR-Sabers
– KR Luke V2 Chassis
These chassis can be used with or without the optional crystal chamber.
⇒ Variant 1 for all major current soundboard: kr-luke-v2-lightsaber-chassis-var1
⇒ Variant 2 for ProffieBoard and 21700 battery: kr-luke-v2-lightsaber-chassis-var2
⇒ (Optional) Crystal Chamber add-on: kr-luke-v2-cc-add-on-insert (one or two can be added to the crystal chamber)
⇒ (Optional) Crystals: kr-luke-v2-cc-add-on-crystals
2- Additional chassis parts
⇒ 1.5mmOD rods (only if using Crystal Chamber inserts add-ons)
3- DIY empty hilts:
⇒ The Saber Armory by KR-Sabers
4- Electronic components and blades:
Saber electronic components are basically more or less similar from one saber to another. You’ll need a main Led, a Battery, a recharge port, one or two switches, a soundboard, accent leds, a speaker and wires. Then the blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip.
You can find most of what you’ll need at The Saber Armory. Some components can also be found at The Saber Bay on Etsy. Local electronic shops or online stores like Digikey are also a good source.
⇒ Soundboard, the “heart” of our sabers is the Soundboard, here are the 2 major Soundboard producers:
Plecter Labs – from the entry level Nano Biscotte to the high end Crystal Focus.
Naigon Elelctronic Creations – I3 or other equivalent sized sounboards (Spark, ..)
ProffieBoard on Variant2
⇒ Battery, Var1: 18650 battery for 3.7v setup, Var2: 21700 battery
⇒ Recharge Port 1.3mm High Amp Recharge port
⇒ Slider switch High Amp kill switch
⇒ Battery charger, according to the battery voltage used.
⇒ Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2 or Neopixel
⇒ Switches, 3mm wide tactile switches using clamp switches holder.
⇒ Speaker, 28mm bass speaker
⇒ Pins, to connect the speaker module to the main chassis (Ex: Male / Female)
⇒ Accent Leds, 3mm and 5mm accent leds
⇒ Wires, we strongly recommend PTFE wires, as the insulation is thin while still able to handle current very well. You can find them from this eBay shop for example. Use the smallest AWG size possible:
– Tri-Cree install => 30awg for eveything
– Neopixel install => 32 awg wires for everything except Battery and Neopixel strip + and – (24awg PTFE).
⇒ Heat shrink tubing, to protect your solder joints.
⇒ 1″ OD blade for the main blade.
Quick Install Guide:
(step by step)
– These instructions will details the install procedure as much as possible. GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers.
– Always wear protective gear when working on install (gloves, eye protection, …), GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible in case of accident.
Note 1: Use small wires to make your install easier
=> for Tri-cree install 30awg for main wires and 32awg for accent leds and switches are highly recommended
=> for Neopixel 24awg PTFE for main wires (battery and led strip + and -), and 32awg for accent leds and switches are highly recommended
Note 2: These instructions will not cover how to wire the soundboard, make sure to learn how to by reading the manual. make sure to test your install along the way! Making sure everything works after important steps is better than having to dismount everything because something wasn’t wired properly.
MULTIBOARDS ADAPTIVE CHASSIS (Var1)
Chassis to be held using a retention screw. Drill and tap a 6-32 or 8-32 hole at this position to add a retention screw to lock the chassis in.
The chassis can be used with or without the optional crystal chamber.
– There are 2 holes on the chassis Var1 for 3mm tubes, they can be glued on the chassis, or replaced with 4-40 threaded rod and locked with hex nuts.
– Due to the battery size, the Var2 don’t have holes for these tubes or rods. An alternative method would have to be found to retain the chamber in place on the chassis (like epoxy, or 3 additional small retention screws locking the chamber to the hilt).
Check this assembly tutorial video by KR-Sabers:
Note that using the 3D printed crystal, you can use tiny drops of super glue to secure them in the brass inserts.
This way it leaves the holes open for the light to shine through them.
Glue the brass insert / crystal into the chamber before adding the accent leds.
One or two optional add-on can be added using 1.5mmOD rods (to be glued on the rod).
The speaker connects to the main chassis using two smd pin header. They are easy to find in electronic store and look like that:
Wire and glue the male pins on the speaker chassis (cut the pins short on the internal side to avoid conflict with the speaker.
Wire and add the speaker in the holder, then glue the cap over it.
Two 3x2mm magnets are to be added to the chassis and speaker module. Make sure to respect polarity before inserting and gluing them in the chassis.
Wire and glue the female smd pin header into the main chassis, then test the speaker connection.
The recharge port is adeed / glued from inside
The kill switch insert from the outside (the pins need to be shorten to save space).
Add the battery and install the soundboard.