KRORssguard (2020) Sith Master Chassis
This chassis features a really nice original design, with the crystal chamber closed behind doors. These doors open to reveal the Kyber Crystal and spinning plasma gate.
This Master Chassis is full of small details, that matches the hilt engines and is overall quite a masterpiece.
GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers during their install. You must have a good understanding of what you’re doing, of the components used and the safety measures associated to them. Always wear protective gear when working on install (gloves, eye protection, …), GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible in case of accident.
Always use the smallest wires to make your install easier. There can be big differences between one wire type and another for the same AWG specs. PTFE Wires with the smallest OD are recommended such as those sold at The Saber Armory. A good wire management is also required, routing wires properly helps a lot saving space.
These instructions will not cover how to wire the soundboard, make sure to learn how to by reading the manual. Always test your install along the way! Verifying that everything works after important steps is better than having to dismount everything because something wasn’t wired properly.
Need support regarding your soundboard? Your soundboard reseller will be the most suited to answer your questions.
3D printed parts can have very slight accuracy variations. In some rare cases, some sanding or hole deburring can be required. Additionally, metal parts can arrive a bit bent, but are normally easy to bend back into shape. Consult the FAQ if you encounter issues with parts that cannot be solved easily.
– 24 x 2mmx1mm Magnets
– 4 x 2mmx2mm Magnets
Tubes, Rods and Nuts:
– 3 x M2.5 Threaded rods with 48.5mm length
– 3 x M2.5x3x3.5 nuts
– 2 x 4mmOD Tube with 43mm Length
– 1mmOD rods or tubes are used to secure parts assembly (see instructions)
– A 1.5mmOD rod in used in the CC – optional (see instructions)
KR-Sabers Assembly Instructions
Chapter 1 – Parts Preparation
00:00:00 – Step 1 – Clean the hilt body / test fit
This chassis is designed to reinforce the whole hilt assembly and prevent wobbling. As such the to chassis part will be screwed on the hilt’s heatsink, with M2.5 rods and nuts. We need to ensure here that the top plastic chassis part will press fit on the body.
If the hilt has been weathered, make sure the internal body is cleaned. Then check the plastic chassis part fitment and sand slowly if necessary.
00:00:35 – Step 2 – Prepare plastic parts
Cut the NPXL holders from the top chassis part.
00:01:30 – Step 3 – Metal parts weathering.
We use Tifoo Silvergel (Example here) and Brass black (Example here) to weather our parts.
CHAPTER 2 – Upper Hilt Install
00:07:03 – Step 4 – Cut the M2.5 threaded rods.
If the rods don’t screw easily on the hilt heatsink, use a driller to remove the plating on the threaded holes opening.
00:08:35 – Step 5 – NPXL PCB holder adjustment.
Cut 2 small channels on each sides of the main PCB holder, to allow the side blades PCB wires to pass through.
00:09:25 – Step 6 – Emitter preparation.
Glue the emitter greeblie, then prepare the wires.
00:11:23 – Step 7 – Side blades NPXL PCB install.
00:13:54 – Step 8 – Main NPXL PCB install.
Limit wires going to the soundboard as much as posible. For example, the NPXL positive wires are grouped into one. Same for the same blade NPXL negative.
00:20:23 – Step 9 – Switches PCB Install
00:21:52 – Step 10 – Wires management.
Perfect wire management is essential for this build in order to properly slide up the top chassis part and make a strong chassis. Check the video to learn how to do it, patience is key on this step and the next ones.
00:26:33 – Step 11 – Upper hilt rebuild.
Start rebuilding the upper hilt.
00:28:31 – Step 12 – Engine install.
Once the engine is in place, pull the wires while pushing the top chassis. Until the rods barely appear through the holes. Then, add the nuts and slowly screw them until strongly fasten.
00:32:07 – Step 13 – Blue wires install
CHAPTER 3 – Crystal Chamber Build – Part 1
00:35:03 – Step 14 – Accent 1.5mmOD rod install.
This is optional.
00:36:13 – Step 15 – Cut the 4mmOD tubes and 1.5mmOD rods.
00:38:18 – Step 16 – Glue the magnets.
The 5 doors takes 2mmx1mm magnets to close together.
The battery cover takes 2mmx2mm magnets
00:42:33 – Step 17 – Glue the tubes.
00:43:41 – Step 18 – Drill the side tube for the 1.5mmOD rod.
00:44:12 – Step 19 – Blue wires install.
00:47:50 – Step 20 – CC doors install.
Glue the rod to secure the doors, except the top door (as the rod also holds the battery cover and will be glued later) and the side door (the one with the drilled 4mmOD tube, which will wait for the wires to be in place later).
00:49:18 – Step 21 – Crystal holder install
Use the main chassis as guide.
CHAPTER 4 – Crystal Chamber Build – Part 2
00:50:07 – Step 22 – Motor install.
Use the CC spinning part to properly insert the motor to the proper depth.
00:51:56 – Step 23 – Glue the CC spinning part.
Be careful to only glue the part on the motor stem and not the motor itself.
00:52:38 – Step 24 – Assemble the CC to the top hilt.
There are lips at the top of the CC. They are to be glued (the tubes can also offer support) to the top chassis part.
00:54:45 – Step 25 – Add the side door 1.5mmOD rod.
Now that the wires and CC are in place, the side door can be secured using 2 little rods (as they won’t be space to pass a longer rods thought like the other doors.
00:55:55 – Step 26 – Install the single pixel on crystal
CHAPTER 5 – Battery Module Install Part 1
00:56:20 – Step 27 – Sounboard door install
We use 2mmx1mm magnets.
00:58:10 – Step 28 – Crystall install.
There was a mistake on the video where all wires were soldered on the crystal single pixel at first. Actually, 4 wires are used and not 6 (+, -, Data in and data out).
01:01:02 – Step 29 – Join the main chassis to the CC.
Here again, proper wires routing and management is key to make sure the main chassis will site properly on the CC.
01:02:04 – Step 30 – Accent 2020 NPXL strips install.
We use double side tape to hold the strip in place (and the diffuser at next step).
01:06:18 – Step 31 – Add the strips diffuser.
CHAPTER 6 – Battery Module Install Part 2
01:07:45 – Step 32 – Positive battery tab install.
01:09:36 – Step 33 – Kill switch install.
01:11:28 – Step 34 – Pre-install the speaker.
The speaker is wired but not glued. The Speaker cover requires the speaker to be removed in order to slide on the chassis.
01:12:16 – Step 35 – Negative battery tab install.
CHAPTER 7 – Soundboard Install
01:13:10 – Step 36 – Wire the soundboard.
Make sure to manage properly the wires with a good distribution over and under the soundboard, so that I can fit properly flush in its slot.
CHAPTER 8 – Covers Install
01:20:09 – Step 32 – OLED screen and cover install
01:23:21 – Step 33 – Speaker install.
01:23:51 – Step 34 – Battery cover install.
01:24:17 – Step 35 – Lock the assembly with 1mmOD tubes or rods.
We use 1mmOD copper tubes to give some additional small details.
CHAPTER 9 – Hilt Completion
01:27:51 – Step 36 – Glue the red wire holder.
01:28:48 – Step 37 – Red wire install.
Choose your preferred way to install the red wire and open the hilt.
Here the wire is cut at the last holder in order to ease the hilt opening.
01:30:46 – Step 38 – Glue the pommel cap
Have a look at the result!