Tutorial for ELF-Sabers Desert Wanderer (2022) Master Chassis
Fully removable chassis core, optimized for Neopixel install with a removable battery and a cool Crystal Chamber cage design with magnetic door and spinning insert.
Magnets list:
– 6 x 2mmOD 2mm thick
Brass tactile Switches:
– 1 x 2.5mm height
Introduction
-
Disclaimer
GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers during their install. You must have a good understanding of what you’re doing, of the components used and the safety measures associated to them. Always wear protective gear when working on install (gloves, eye protection, …), GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible in case of accident.
-
Note #1
Always use the smallest wires to make your install easier. There can be big differences between one wire type and another for the same AWG specs. PTFE Wires with the smallest OD are recommended such as those sold at The Saber Armory. A good wire management is also required, routing wires properly helps a lot saving space.
-
Note #2
These instructions will not cover how to wire the soundboard, make sure to learn how to by reading the manual. We have also typical soundboards wiring available in the Padawan Tutorials. Always test your install along the way! Verifying that everything works after important steps is better than having to dismount everything because something wasn’t wired properly.
-
Note #3
3D printed parts can have very slight accuracy variations. In some rare cases, some sanding or hole deburring can be required. Additionally, metal parts can arrive a bit bent, but are normally easy to bend back into shape. Consult the FAQ if you encounter issues with parts that cannot be solved easily.
KR-Sabers’ Overview Video
Chapter 1 – Parts Preparation and Chassis Pre-Assembly
-
00:00:00 – Step 1 – Cut apart the plastic and metal parts
Carefully cut the sprues using a sharp knife or scissors.00:01:36 – Step 2 – Test the part fitment
Check that all the parts fit properly, or if they need to be slightly bent into shape.00:02:09 – Step 3 – Cut the rods and tubes
– 2 x 1.5mmOD rods with 111mm length
– 2 x 1.5mmOD rods with 30mm length
– 4 x 1.5mmOD rods with 47mm length
– 2 x 4mmOD tubes with 64.5mm length
– 2 x 4mmOD tubes with 19mm length00:05:13 – Step 4 – Parts weathering
We mostly use the following products for weathering metal parts
– Tifoo Silvergel
– Birchwood Casey Brass BlackNotes: once the chassis and other parts are ready, it is best practice to test the overall assembly and chassis fitment in the hilt. This is meant to make sure everything fits properly or if some adjustment is needed due to slight variations in the 3D printed parts or mahcined hilt parts tolerances.
CHAPTER 2 – Power Module Build – Part 1
-
00:07:38 – Step 5 – NPXL accent strips install
Glue the 10 pixels strips in their slot on the battery holder module. The wires exit on the speaker side. Make sure to test them before continuing.00:09:33 – Step 6 – Cover install
Add the cover and side parts, then secure them with the rods00:10:11 – Step 7 – Add and glue the 4mmOD tubes.
00:12:26 – Step 8 – Glue the 1.5mmOD rods
Using the Crystal Chamber to push the rods to the right length.
CHAPTER 3 – Power Module Build – Part 2
-
00:13:13 – Step 9 – Negative Battery contacts install
Wire the contact, insert it in its slot, then pass the wire through the tube.00:14:15 – Step 10 – Kill Switch install
The switch kill the positive battery feed to the soundboard. A wire will thus come for the positive contact, through the tube, then the other wires goes back into the tube toward the soundboard.00:15:55 – Step 11 – Positive battery contact install
The positive contact is glued into its slot. On the back, the contact will group positives wires going to:
– the kill switch (22awg)
– the NPXL connector (22awg)
– the crystal chamber pixel (30awg)
– the NPXL accent strips (28awg)00:17:41 – Step 12 – Accent strips wiring
Group the wires of the 2 strips and feed them into the tubes.00:20:46 – Step 13 – Speaker install
Wire and glue the 28mm speaker in its slot.
CHAPTER 4 – Crystal Chamber Build
-
00:22:11 – Step 14 – Glue the CC insert and install the CC cage door.
Introduce the CC insert into the CC as shown and glue it, making sure it stays flat.
(not shown on video)
Next, glue the Magnets for the CC cage door. The door takes 2 x 2mmx2mm magnets. The Cage takes 1 x 2mmx2mm magnet on the left and 1x 2mmx1mm magnet on the right.
Then, add the door to the CC cage and secure it using gluing the 1.5mmOD rods.00:23:26 – Step 15 – Add and glue the 4mmOD tubes
00:24:02 – Step 16 – Nano Pixel wiring
00:24:57 – Step 17 – Wiring management
Make sure to distribute evenly the wires through the CC channels. Plan ahead the soundboard wiring to choose on which side to put the wires.00:26:25 – Step 18 – Nano Pixel install
The nano pixel should press fit into the crystal.00:27:23 – Step 19 – Glue the CC to the Power Module
Make sure the CC sits well flat and aligned with the battery module.
CHAPTER 5 – Front Module Build Part 1
-
00:28:08 – Step 20 – Glue the OLED in its slot.
00:28:55 – Step 21 – Motor Install
Glue the spinning part on the motor stem (make sure not to glue it to the motor itself). Then insert the motor in its slot and test. If it works fine, the motor can then be glued.00:29:58 – Step 22 – OLED Wiring
00:31:01 – Step 23 – NPXL accent strips install (4 LED strips)
Similar to the battery holder module, 2 strips of 4 pixels can be installed on the front part (with wires exiting toward the NPXL connector holder.00:32:36 – Step 24 – OLED cover and rods install
Clip the OLED part in place and add / glue the rods.00:33:39 – Step 25 – Join and glue the chassis to the main assembly.
Again, making sure the chassis front part sits flat / aligned with the CC.
CHAPTER 6 – Front Module Build Part 2
-
(not shown) – Step 26 – Start wiring the soundboard
Wires the soundboard with the wires coming from the CC.
Here is the soundboard wiring diagram:
(this diagram is provided as example, there are other wiring possibilities and blade setup. Make sure to read and understand the proffieboard manual.
For instance, you can skip the duplicated aux switch near the top of the chassis.)
Here is the corresponding blade setup to this diagram:
};
BladeConfig blades[] = {
{ 0,
WS281XBladePtr<140, bladePin, Color8::GRB, PowerPINS<bladePowerPin2, bladePowerPin3> >(),
WS281XBladePtr<1, blade2Pin, Color8::GRB, PowerPINS<bladePowerPin4> >(), WS281XBladePtr<10, blade3Pin, Color8::GRB, PowerPINS<bladePowerPin5> >(),
WS281XBladePtr<4, blade4Pin, Color8::GRB, PowerPINS<bladePowerPin1> >(),
SimpleBladePtr<CH1LED,NoLED, NoLED, NoLED,bladePowerPin6, -1,-1,-1>(),
CONFIGARRAY(presets)
},
};00:34:25 – Step 27 – Install the Aux switch.
Glue the 2.5mm brass tactile switch in its slot. Then glue the front ring in place.00:36:04 – Step 28 – Continue soundboard wiring and tests.
00:37:17 – Step 29 – Soundboard accent soldering (unified pads look)
in order to look nicer, all the pads of the top of the soundboard have been soldered.00:38:29 – Step 30 – Glue the soundboard in its slot.
00:39:17 – Step 31 – Install the NPXL hilt side connector.
Wire, then glue the hilt side PCB.
CHAPTER 7 – Covers Install
-
00:41:41 – Step 32 – Insulate the front cover.
We use vinyl tape from the brand Nitto.00:42:21 – Step 33 – Install the front cover.
(Not shown) Glue to the magnets on the chassis and covers. Make sure the cover’s magnet makes contact with the one on the chassis before gluing (there can be a small gap between the cover and the chassis due to printing accuracy)..00:43:28 – Step 34 – Switch PCB Install
00:44:27 – Step 35 – Battery Cover Magnets
Glue the 4 magnets on the chassis and cover.00:45:10 – Step 36 – Battery cover install
CHAPTER 8 – Hilt Install
-
00:45:36 – Step 37 – Wire the NPXL blade side PCB
Glue the PCB in its dedicated holder (the larger one).00:47:14 – Step 38 – Glue the connector in the hilt grenade section
We used sticky paste on top of a pen to guide the connector to the top of the grenade section.
Make sure the connector is sitting / glued flat.00:47:53 – Step 39 – Lock the thin neck parts threads.
We used blue loctite thread blocker to avoid any unwanted unscrewing of the thin neck.00:48:10 – Step 40 – Wire the 2nd NPXL hilt side PCB.
00:49:06 – Step 41 – Glue the connector in the emitter.
Feed the wires back into the thin neck and make sure the connector holder is glued well flat into the emitter.00:49:32 – Step 42 – Change the control box screws.
Replace the stock screws but the 10mm long ones, which will create a guide for the chassis, in order to align the switch PCB to the hilt swithes plungers.
FINAL CHAPTER
-
The Chassis assembly is complete! Let’s see the result!