Other Chassis for Obi-Wan (3.5)

Tutorial for ELF-Sabers Desert Wanderer (2022) Master Chassis

Fully removable chassis core, optimized for Neopixel install with a removable battery and a cool Crystal Chamber cage design with magnetic door and spinning insert.


Other Parts Details

Magnets list:
– 6 x 2mmOD 2mm thick
Brass tactile Switches:
– 1 x 2.5mm height


  • Disclaimer

    GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers during their install. You must have a good understanding of what you’re doing, of the components used and the safety measures associated to them. Always wear protective gear when working on install (gloves, eye protection, …), GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible in case of accident.

  • Note #1

    Always use the smallest wires to make your install easier. There can be big differences between one wire type and another for the same AWG specs. PTFE Wires with the smallest OD are recommended such as those sold at The Saber Armory. A good wire management is also required, routing wires properly helps a lot saving space.

  • Note #2

    These instructions will not cover how to wire the soundboard, make sure to learn how to by reading the manual. We have also typical soundboards wiring available in the Padawan Tutorials. Always test your install along the way! Verifying that everything works after important steps is better than having to dismount everything because something wasn’t wired properly.

  • Note #3

    3D printed parts can have very slight accuracy variations. In some rare cases, some sanding or hole deburring can be required. Additionally, metal parts can arrive a bit bent, but are normally easy to bend back into shape. Consult the FAQ if you encounter issues with parts that cannot be solved easily.

KR-Sabers’ Overview Video

Chapter 1 – Parts Preparation and Chassis Pre-Assembly

  • 00:00:00Step 1 – Cut apart the plastic and metal parts
    Carefully cut the sprues using a sharp knife or scissors.

    00:01:36Step 2 – Test the part fitment
    Check that all the parts fit properly, or if they need to be slightly bent into shape.

    00:02:09Step 3 – Cut the rods and tubes
    – 2 x 1.5mmOD rods with 111mm length
    – 2 x 1.5mmOD rods with 30mm length
    – 4 x 1.5mmOD rods with 47mm length
    – 2 x 4mmOD tubes with 64.5mm length
    – 2 x 4mmOD tubes with 19mm length

    00:05:13Step 4 – Parts weathering
    We mostly use the following products for weathering metal parts
    – Tifoo Silvergel
    – Birchwood Casey Brass Black

    Notes: once the chassis and other parts are ready, it is best practice to test the overall assembly and chassis fitment in the hilt. This is meant to make sure everything fits properly or if some adjustment is needed due to slight variations in the 3D printed parts or mahcined hilt parts tolerances.

CHAPTER 2 – Power Module Build – Part 1

  • 00:07:38Step 5 – NPXL accent strips install
    Glue the 10 pixels strips in their slot on the battery holder module. The wires exit on the speaker side. Make sure to test them before continuing.

    00:09:33Step 6 – Cover install
    Add the cover and side parts, then secure them with the rods

    00:10:11Step 7 – Add and glue the 4mmOD tubes.

    00:12:26Step 8 – Glue the 1.5mmOD rods
    Using the Crystal Chamber to push the rods to the right length.

CHAPTER 3 – Power Module Build – Part 2

  • 00:13:13Step 9 – Negative Battery contacts install
    Wire the contact, insert it in its slot, then pass the wire through the tube.

    00:14:15 Step 10 – Kill Switch install
    The switch kill the positive battery feed to the soundboard. A wire will thus come for the positive contact, through the tube, then the other wires goes back into the tube toward the soundboard.

    00:15:55Step 11 – Positive battery contact install
    The positive contact is glued into its slot. On the back, the contact will group positives wires going to:
    – the kill switch (22awg)
    – the NPXL connector (22awg)
    – the crystal chamber pixel (30awg)
    – the NPXL accent strips (28awg)

    00:17:41Step 12 – Accent strips wiring
    Group the wires of the 2 strips and feed them into the tubes.

    00:20:46Step 13 – Speaker install
    Wire and glue the 28mm speaker in its slot.

CHAPTER 4 – Crystal Chamber Build

  • 00:22:11Step 14 – Glue the CC insert and install the CC cage door.
    Introduce the CC insert into the CC as shown and glue it, making sure it stays flat.
    (not shown on video)
    Next, glue the Magnets for the CC cage door. The door takes 2 x 2mmx2mm magnets. The Cage takes 1 x 2mmx2mm magnet on the left and 1x 2mmx1mm magnet on the right.

    Then, add the door to the CC cage and secure it using gluing the 1.5mmOD rods.

    00:23:26Step 15 – Add and glue the 4mmOD tubes

    00:24:02Step 16 – Nano Pixel wiring

    00:24:57Step 17 – Wiring management
    Make sure to distribute evenly the wires through the CC channels. Plan ahead the soundboard wiring to choose on which side to put the wires.

    00:26:25Step 18 – Nano Pixel install
    The nano pixel should press fit into the crystal.

    00:27:23Step 19 – Glue the CC to the Power Module
    Make sure the CC sits well flat and aligned with the battery module.

CHAPTER 5 – Front Module Build Part 1

  • 00:28:08Step 20 – Glue the OLED in its slot.

    00:28:55Step 21 – Motor Install
    Glue the spinning part on the motor stem (make sure not to glue it to the motor itself). Then insert the motor in its slot and test. If it works fine, the motor can then be glued.

    00:29:58Step 22 – OLED Wiring

    00:31:01Step 23 – NPXL accent strips install (4 LED strips)
    Similar to the battery holder module, 2 strips of 4 pixels can be installed on the front part (with wires exiting toward the NPXL connector holder.

    00:32:36Step 24 – OLED cover and rods install
    Clip the OLED part in place and add / glue the rods.

    00:33:39Step 25 – Join and glue the chassis to the main assembly.
    Again, making sure the chassis front part sits flat / aligned with the CC.

CHAPTER 6 – Front Module Build Part 2

  • (not shown) – Step 26 – Start wiring the soundboard
    Wires the soundboard with the wires coming from the CC.
    Here is the soundboard wiring diagram:

    (this diagram is provided as example, there are other wiring possibilities and blade setup. Make sure to read and understand the proffieboard manual.
    For instance, you can skip the duplicated aux switch near the top of the chassis.)

    Here is the corresponding blade setup to this diagram:
    BladeConfig blades[] = {
    { 0,
    WS281XBladePtr<140, bladePin, Color8::GRB, PowerPINS<bladePowerPin2, bladePowerPin3> >(),
    WS281XBladePtr<1, blade2Pin, Color8::GRB, PowerPINS<bladePowerPin4> >(), WS281XBladePtr<10, blade3Pin, Color8::GRB, PowerPINS<bladePowerPin5> >(),
    WS281XBladePtr<4, blade4Pin, Color8::GRB, PowerPINS<bladePowerPin1> >(),
    SimpleBladePtr<CH1LED,NoLED, NoLED, NoLED,bladePowerPin6, -1,-1,-1>(),

    00:34:25Step 27 – Install the Aux switch.
    Glue the 2.5mm brass tactile switch in its slot.  Then glue the front ring in place.

    00:36:04Step 28 – Continue soundboard wiring and tests.

    00:37:17Step 29 – Soundboard accent soldering (unified pads look)
    in order to look nicer, all the pads of the top of the soundboard have been soldered.

    00:38:29Step 30 – Glue the soundboard in its slot.

    00:39:17Step 31 – Install the NPXL hilt side connector.
    Wire, then glue the hilt side PCB.

CHAPTER 7 – Covers Install

  • 00:41:41Step 32 – Insulate the front cover.
    We use vinyl tape from the brand Nitto.

    00:42:21Step 33 – Install the front cover.
    (Not shown) Glue to the magnets on the chassis and covers. Make sure the cover’s magnet makes contact with the one on the chassis before gluing (there can be a small gap between the cover and the chassis due to printing accuracy)..

    00:43:28Step 34 – Switch PCB Install

    00:44:27Step 35 – Battery Cover Magnets
    Glue the 4 magnets on the chassis and cover.

    00:45:10Step 36 – Battery cover install

CHAPTER 8 – Hilt Install

  • 00:45:36 Step 37 – Wire the NPXL blade side PCB
    Glue the PCB in its dedicated holder (the larger one).

    00:47:14Step 38 – Glue the connector in the hilt grenade section
    We used sticky paste on top of a pen to guide the connector to the top of the grenade section.
    Make sure the connector is sitting / glued flat.

    00:47:53Step 39 – Lock the thin neck parts threads.
    We used blue loctite thread blocker to avoid any unwanted unscrewing of the thin neck.

    00:48:10Step 40 – Wire the 2nd NPXL hilt side PCB.

    00:49:06Step 41 – Glue the connector in the emitter.
    Feed the wires back into the thin neck and make sure the connector holder is glued well flat into the emitter.

    00:49:32Step 42 – Change the control box screws.
    Replace the stock screws but the 10mm long ones, which will create a guide for the chassis, in order to align the switch PCB to the hilt swithes plungers.


  • The Chassis assembly is complete! Let’s see the result!