Tutorial for WJ Mr Tyranus Gen1 (2021)
Here is our custom chassis for Watto's Junkyard Mr Tyranus / Count Dooku's Lightsaber in Episode 2.
It has been designed in a way that makes it super easy to access the soundboard, despite a very complex hilt construction. Just unscrew the covertec knob and pull the soundboard module out. Check our demo video for more details
The following pins are needed:
– 5 sets of 10A pins (3 sets for the main chassis, and 2 male pins for the recharge adapter).
– At least 3 sets of 1A pins (switch, GND and Data). Additional set can be added for Data2, bladeID, … (up to 7 pins possible on proffie, and up to 6 on CFX chassis).
GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers during their install. You must have a good understanding of what you’re doing, of the components used and the safety measures associated to them. Always wear protective gear when working on install (gloves, eye protection, …), GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible in case of accident.
Always use the smallest wires to make your install easier. There can be big differences between one wire type and another for the same AWG specs. PTFE Wires with the smallest OD are recommended such as those sold at The Saber Armory. A good wire management is also required, routing wires properly helps a lot saving space.
These instructions will not cover how to wire the soundboard, make sure to learn how to by reading the manual. Always test your install along the way! Verifying that everything works after important steps is better than having to dismount everything because something wasn’t wired properly.
Quick Install Guide – Gen1 hilt
Step 1 – Cut chassis parts apart and trim prongs with a Xacto knife or equivalent.
Part 1 contains the soundboard module, speaker holder, and NPXL pcb holder (emitter).
Step 2 – (optional) a 2020 strip (cut to 6 pixels) can be added on the speaker holder, to create light effects through the pommel sound vents. Be careful handling this flexible strip as they are fragile (glue the strip without pressing the strip too much).
Step 3 – Wire and glue the 22mm speaker into the holder. Then pass the strip wires over the speaker and back inside the holder to join with the speaker wires.
Step 4 – Insert and glue the soundboard module into the hilt rear junction part, as shown.
Step 5 – Insert and glue the speaker holder into place, passing the wires through the dedicated hole. Check that the hilt pommel fits properly with aligned screw hole before gluing the speaker holder.
Notes: the CFX chassis version will also require the hole to be expanded as the soundboard would sit in the way of the current opening.
Step 6 – Install the 3 x 10A brass pins. The pins are inserted from the inside and have to be glued (E6000) into the custom holder, making sure they are well centered.
Important: The 10A pins must respect the following pattern. Make sure to map that layout as it will need to be reproduced on the female side as well.
Step 7 – Wire the kill switch (one wire coming from the brass pin), and glue the switch in place (the switch is in a different position on the CFX chassis but principle is the same). Make sure to trim the switch prongs to the minimum (limit the switch length once wired as much as possible, as space is very limited). The switch actuator will require a slight sanding as well to limit its length.
Step 8 – Install the 1A pins according to your setup (here we install 3 pins, 2 for switch and 1 for NPXL data, there are more slot available for blade ID wire, data 2…). These pins are inserted for the outside and glued making sure again they are well centered. The pin holes are small and might need a bit of cleaning from printing dust.
Step 9a – (optional) you can add a 3mm led indicator, to show when the hilt is on through the clear red plastic switch (useful not to forget the saber on).
Sand the 3mm led flat.
Wire the led and resistor. The led GND wire is joined with the switch GND wire from the 1A pin (to limit wires footprint inside the chassis).
Glue the led into the hole, making sure it sit flush.
A hole needs to be drilled in the plastic switch retention part, at the center, so that the led indicator can shine through the red plastic switch.
Step 9b – (optional) the chassis is planned for single switch setup, but a second Aux switch can easily be installed instead of the led indicator. The switch is a 6x6mm tactile switch with 5.5mm height (2mm plunger).
Drill expand the hole a bit to fit the tactile switch plunger (hole need to be 3.6mm ID at least).
The clearance need to be checked, sanding the red trigger retention plate by 0.3mm would be required. If the switch is higher than 5.5mm height, then also sand the switch plunger.
Glue the switch (epoxy) being careful not to glue the plunger itself.
Step 10 – Install the soundboard, test, and then glue in in place.
Step 11 – Wire the NPXL connector (short pins) and glue it into the holder.
Glue the holder into the hilt emitter.
Step 12 – To install the main chassis, only the bottom grip need to be removed. You should be able to pull them out from the inside (with finger if big hands or a stick), without needing to remove the top grip part (which is very hard and prone to break the grip). Once both bottom grip steel parts are out, you can unscrew the elbow and pull it away.
Step 13 – Glue the battery in the chassis.
Step 14 – Glue the magnets on the switch gold button. Then wire and install the switch (right size of the brass tactile switch included with the kit), and place the gold button on top. Make sure to properly located the switch and then place the gold button on top. The gold button is not easy to removed once placed – check the example below to see the good location for the switch and also make sure to test that switch actuation.
Step 15 – Insert the battery chassis, guiding the wires through the dedicated channel, as shown.
Step 16 – Glue in the female 10A pins, from the inside. Make sure the female pins do not present to much resistance when the male pin is inserted. If that is the case, expand the female clamp a bit. Also make sure the pattern is respected to match the soundboard module pins.
Step 17 – Glue in the female 1A pins, from the outside. Make sure the female pins do not present to much resistance when the male pin is inserted. If that is the case, expand the female clamp a bit. Also make sure the pattern is respected to match the soundboard module pins.
Step 19 – Lock the chassis in the elbow part. The two gold screw pieces will lock the battery chassis into the elbow, ensuring it will stay aligned with the soundboard module is inserted. You can mark a point on the chassis as shown in the 1st picture below, that will help aligning the chassis with the elbow screw holes (do not lock the chassis with the lower soundboard chassis part plugged – then once locked, check that the soundboard chassis plugs correctly and test it).
Then, screw back the elbow part on the main hilt (pull the wires to ensure they stay aligned in the channel and won’t be pinched by the battery going into the hilt, as the hilt ID lowers at some point).
Step 20 – Push the wires back inside, and place the grip parts back.
Step 21 – Build the recharge adapter.
Insert the 2 x 10A male pins, making sure to respect the battery polarity.
The solder the wires on the 2.1mm recharge port. Insert the port into it’s dedicated hole, and screw the nut on it. The recharge adapter is ready and will be used to charge the battery.
Step 22 – (optional) you can glue (epoxy) the covertec knob screw on the covertec knob itself, to turn it into a thumb screw and makes easier the access to the soundboard module and saber recharge.
Check the demo video to see it in operation.