Roman Props Inception Chassis
1- 3D printed Chassis parts:
Shapeways Shop Section ⇒ C8 – Roman Props
/!\ Important: These chassis are for the Inception currently sold at Roman Props (both standard and Elite). There was a previous version sold in the past by Roman, with a different internal structure. As such, these chassis are not compatible with the old version. You have the current version if the clamp block already contain a black switch box.
Two chassis levels are available for the Roman Inception (Elite or Standard models currently sold by Roman Props):
– Padawan for a basic install, with a chassis mainly focused on securing all your electronics
– Master for a highly detailed reveal, including crystal chamber parts that can be printed in metal for the best reveal effect.
Both these chassis have 2 variants:
Variant 1 has the “MultiBoards Adaptive Chassis” design which allows any major soundboards to be installed.
NEW design 2018 – Now with MAC-4.0, compatible with ProffieBoard, NB, Prizm5.1 and I3. Updated Crystal Chamber assembly and able to hold a 28mm bass speaker and a pogo-pin connector at the top.
Variant 2 is only compatible with Plecter Labs Crystal Focus 9 and has an additional slot for the Color Extender satellite board.
Prices: Depends on the materials selected and Shapeways current rate. Build your cart using the links below in order to get a price estimate for the full chassis.
(additional cost depending on material used for the Crystal Chamber – ex $200 in recommended materials)
Install Level: Advanced
⇒ Part2 – Crystal Chamber Shell (recommended in steel): master-chassis-part2
⇒ Part3 – Crystal Chamber Insert 1 (recommended in raw brass): master-chassis-part3
⇒ Part4 – Crystal Chamber Insert 2 (recommended in raw brass): master-chassis-part4
⇒ Part5 – Optional Crystals pair (recommended in Ultra Frosted): master-chassis-part5
2- Additional chassis parts:
Most of the chassis parts needed for our chassis are available at The Saber Armory.
Local hobby stores or online store (as well as eBay) are a good source for parts.
You can also be inventive and add any custom parts, wire mesh, paint job or else to your chassis to give it an unique look!
For the Master chassis only, here is a list of parts needed to install it:
⇒ 4-40 threaded rods x 1
⇒ Hex nuts for 4-40 rods x 2
⇒ Brass or copper rods – 1.5mm max OD
⇒ Brass or copper tube – 4mm OD
3- DIY empty hilts:
⇒ Available on Roman Props website
4- Electronic components and blades:
Saber electronic components are basically more or less similar from one saber to another. You’ll need a main Led, a Battery, a recharge port, one or two switches, a soundboard, accent leds, a speaker and wires. Then the blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip.
You can find most of what you’ll need at The Saber Armory. Some components can also be found at The Saber Bay on Etsy. Local electronic shops or online stores like Digikey are also a good source.
⇒ Soundboard, the “heart” of our sabers is the Soundboard, here are the 2 major Soundboard producers:
Plecter Labs – from the entry level Nano Biscotte to the high end Crystal Focus.
Naigon Elelctronic Creations – from the entry level Spark 2 to the high end I2.
Master – Single 18650 (3.7v) or 2 x 16340 (7.4v)
Padawan – Single 18650 (3.7v) or 2 x 18500 (7.4v)
⇒ Recharge Port, 2.1mm port is used on this chassis (kill key included in the chassis kit).
⇒ Battery charger, according to the battery voltage used.
⇒ Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2 recommended
⇒ Switches, tactile switches to be installed under the clamp card (Ex The Saber Armory).
⇒ On / Off Switch, an optional on/off switch can also be installed (Ex: The Saber Armory).
⇒ Speaker, Var1 – 28mm bass speaker, Var2 – 28mm flat speaker
⇒ Accent Leds, 5mm led for the Crystal Chamber recommended (if RGB, read your soundboard manual to select between common anode or common cathode led), 3mm leds for the others.
⇒ Wires, we strongly recommend PTFE wires, as the insulation is thin while still able to handle current very well. You can find them from this eBay shop for example. Use the smallest AWG size possible:
– Tri-Cree install => 30awg for eveything
– Neopixel install => 32 awg wires for everything except Battery and Neopixel strip + and – (24awg PTFE).
⇒ Heat shrink tubing, to protect your joints.
⇒ RICE port – a RICE port can be added with a micro jst port. Ex on ebay.
⇒ 1″ OD blades only can be used with this hilt. Note that the led module enters into the blade.
(step by step)
– These instructions will details the install procedure as much as possible. GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers.
– Always wear protective gear when working on install (gloves, eye protection, …), GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible in case of accident.
Note 1: These chassis are for the current version of Roman Inception, elite or standard. There is an old version of this hilt which we never had in hands and thus don’t know if the chassis work with it. We unfortunately cannot provide support for this old Inception model.
Note 2: 30awg wires and smaller are mandatory for this install (30awg for main wires and 32awg for accent leds and switches are highly recommended)…. Oh and definitely use colored wires to make your life easier.
Note 3: These instructions will not cover how to wire the soundboard, make sure to learn how to by reading the manual. make sure to test your install along the way! Making sure everything works after important steps is better than having to dismount everything cause something wasn’t wired properly.
Note 4: Given the hilt structure, this install isn’t Beginner level.
Note 5: Recharge port wiring reminder:
MULTIBOARDS ADAPTIVE CHASSIS
Master Chassis Instructions
These instructions were taken from the previous chassis version (< Sept 2018). New chassis install is only slightly different on the crystal chamber assembly. They conver the Master CHassis Variant 1 installation. The Variant 2 or both Variants of the Padawan chassis are more or less similar.
Step 0: Aligning parts. Due to the fact that the parts are not indexed and use a male threaded ring, they can result misaligned when screwed together. Before mounting the chassis, it is mandatory to fix/glue the threaded ring into the clamp section of the hilt so that they won’t move when the parts get unscrewed. This is a rather tricky process, and will take a bit of time to get the part aligned properly (the covertec is a 90° of the clamp box and the grenade groove must also be aligned with the clamp box).
Same method apply for the booster and grenade section parts. Screw the threaded ring in and block it with your finger from inside. Then screw the part, see where it stops, unscrew and rotate the threaded ring, screw the part again, and repeat until it aligns properly.
Once aligned, mark where the threaded ring has to index with the clamp part. Then unscrew it a bit, apply a bit of Loctite glue for threaded parts and let it dry. If when screwing the part back the alignment isn’t perfect, you can also sand a bit the part.
Notes: The chassis is inserted from the back of the booster, then the pommel is added. The female threaded section of the booster has an ID that is smaller than the back of the chassis, so the reveal works by unscrewing the booster + pommel and sliding it back until it gets blocked.
Step 2: Wire your soundboard (following the soundboard manual). Make sure to plan enough wire length, especially for the main led, and CC accent leds, … it is always better to cut the wires shorter, then be too short of wires just to save a bit.
Step 4: Wire the recharge port, and the optional kill switch (for the going to the soundboard). Sanding a bit the corner of the on/off switch might be necessary to ensure the booster unscrews properly.
Step 6: Insert the battery (a tiny bit of Super Glue will help secure it as well before adding the CC parts that will lock it in). There is a small channel side of the battery for the wires to pass, and also to allow the SD card to be removed easily.
Step 8: Pre-assemble the crystal chamber to measure the right length for the 4-40 threaded rod, and the 4 1.5mm OD rods. If printed in steel, the shell part might also need sanding to house the battery properly and not damage the battery protection (do not force the part over you battery).
Step 12: Pass the main led and 2nd accent led wires into
the Shell 2 part.
UPDATE Sept2018: the crystal chamber uses two 4mmOD tubes instead of the channel part.
Then prepare the CC insert 2 (if the 3D printed crystal is used, it is necessary to glue it on the insert). It is necessary to glue the CC insert 2 on the remaining chassis part (use the rods as temporary guides to do so). Once glued, it can be added to the assembly, passing the wires in the dedicated channel, and using the 2nd hex nut to lock the parts together.
Notes: to lock the chassis inside the clamp part, we use the star shaped thumb screw. Make sure to unscrew it before inserting the clamp over the chassis. Normally the thumb screw itself is sufficient to secure the chassis (but you can glue a little piece at the tip of the screw to make the lock stronger). When you lock the chassis, make sure it is aligned properly (there is a channel on the side showing were to align the screw.
Notes: the copper mail shouldn’t prevent the chassis from sliding in and out, but if it does, you can sand the inside a bit until it poses no resistance.
Step 16: Add the grenade section (without the neck to make easier to pass the main led wires), then add the neck, then add the heatsink (we have cut and sanded the heatsink shorter on this build FYI) and emitter. Then you can wire the main led and stick is to the heatsink using thermal pad.
Notes: make sure to leave enough slack of wires for the Crystal Chamber reveal. Using 30 awg wires twisted together allow you to unscrew the grenade section and reveal the CC without issues for the wires. To keep things as easy as it can as usual, we don’t use connectors between the chassis and the main led, but one can always enhance the chassis top (using a jack connector or else).
Step 17: Wires the tactile switches. We have drilled and cut 2 windows into the black part of the control box, as shown below. The control box screws maintain the switches in place if the windows are properly placed on the black box, and no glue is needed there.