KR Revenge (2018) Chassis
These designs are no longer supported (FAQ)
– All.In.One Chassis
Install the 2 halves separately, with 2 soundboards, ..etc => 2 chassis are required to complete the staff install.
Removable battery setup, ideal for Neopixel install.
⇒ Main chassis: kr-or-darth-maul-lightsaber-chassis
⇒ (Optional) Convertec Knob: kr-or-darth-maul-covertec-knob
– ECO Chassis
⇒ Main chassis: goth-3d-kr-revenge-chassis-fdm-eco-chassis
Quick Install Guide:
step by step)
– These instructions will details the install procedure as much as possible. GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers.
– Always wear protective gear when working on install (gloves, eye protection, …), GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible in case of accident.
Note 1: Use small wires to make your install easier
=> for Tri-cree install 30awg for main wires and 32awg for accent leds and switches are highly recommended
=> for Neopixel 26 or 28awg for main wires (battery and led strip + and -), and 32awg for accent leds and switches are highly recommended
Note 2: These instructions will not cover how to wire the soundboard, make sure to learn how to by reading the manual. make sure to test your install along the way! Making sure everything works after important steps is better than having to dismount everything because something wasn’t wired properly.
MULTIBOARDS ADAPTIVE CHASSIS
These instructions will cover the install for half the staff, the other half being the same.
Remember, 2 chassis are needed to complete the staff install.
The chassis comes with switch plungers attached. Cut away the 2 plungers, they go inside the 2 thumb screws located near the emitter. Before gluing the plunger in, make sure the little Philips screw is properly tighten to the max.
The top 2 thumb screw which operate the tactile switches under them cannot be screwed to the max on the hilt, otherwise they will not work. Test the switches before continuing the build, and eventually add a bit of super glue to secure the thumb screws.
The other 2 thumb screws (toward the middle of the staff) might go a bit too deep in the hilt (especially if tighten to the max) for the chassis to slide in properly. You can either use them a chassis retention screw (not really needed as the chassis is already locked by the emitter), or just sand them a bit until the chassis slides in and out fine.
Remove the prongs at the bottom of the Keystone battery holder.
Then, the negative battery side of the holder needs to be sanded (approx 3mm down, remove and cut the metal part as well). This is to allow SD card access.
There is a channel to pass the positive battery holder wire, the accent led and speaker wires.
Solder the wires to the battery holder, then glue the holder in the chassis.
Install the 3mm red accent leds in their dedicated slots.
Make sure they don’t stick out in the channel or it will block the chassis from sliding in and out.
Glue 2 dummy 5mm accent leds into the bezels. These dummy leds are just regular 5mm accent led, on which the prongs are cut and the bottom sanded flat. The 3mm accent leds on the chassis will light them up.
Wire and install the 24mm bass speaker.
Wire and install the switches, as well as the power kill switch (which cuts the power from the negative wire of the battery holder to the soundbaord).
Install the led into the heatshink or neopixel pogo-pin plug in the dedicated adapter.
They are retained to the chassis using 2 1.5mmOD rods, as shown bleow.
The optional convertec knob available in the shop can be used to hide the recharge port hole.
Using epoxy to glue it, the bond will be strong enough to be used as actual covertec (and hang the saber on a belt for cosplay).