Tutorial for Master Chassis
Detailed chassis with metal Shells and Crystal Chamber. DIY kit with various parts to assemble.
The Crystal Chamber is available in 2 different Styles (with or without Power Gate).
NEW DESIGN 2018
Style 1: The Crystal Chamber contains a Power Gate to focus the energy between the crystals
Style 2: Open crystal chamber without Power Gate.
Prices: Each part cost depends on the materials selected and Shapeways current rate. Build your cart using the links below in order to get a price estimate for the full chassis.
Install Level: Intermediate
Here is a list of parts needed to install the above chassis:
⇒ 4-40 threaded rods x 2
⇒ Hex nuts for 4-40 rods x 2
⇒ Brass or copper rods – 1.5mm max OD
MutliBoards Adaptive Chassis
– These instructions will details the install procedure as much as possible. GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers.
– Always wear protective gear when working on install (gloves, eye protection, …), GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible in case of accident.
Note : About the Kill Key. It is recommended to sand a bit the side of the kill key “on/off” slot, in order to make them more round and to turn better in the recharge port. (as a reminder, this slot allow to start / stop the saber without removing the kill key).
Note : Recharge port wiring reminder:
Step 0- Install the SC card access door. Since Steel material can slightly vary, cut the door as shown below until you have the best fit. Then cut the 1.5mm OD rod to the right length.
Notes: It is better to have the rod sticking out a bit in case you want to remove it later. We use a tiny drop of Super Glue to secure the rod.
Step 1- Wire and install your main led.
Step 2- Install the 18650 battery into the dedicated holder (we secure the battery in the chassis using a tiny drop of super glue).
Step 3- Prepare you 4-40 threaded rods and cut them to the proper length according to the blade blade holder used. You would have to partially assembly the chassis part for that. On the picture below, you can see where we cut the rod (black mark).
Notes: Using a 3rd rod isn’t necessary, but you can still add one to secure even more the chassis.
Step 4- Assemble the led module with the soundboard module. The add the switch(es) wires.
Notes: To install the AUX slider switch that works with TGS and NerfworXlab Blade Holders (link in the electronic components section above), you can use small bits of the 1.5mm OD rods, to guide and secure the switch. You’ll have to mod the Graflex top in order to reduce the length of the slide switch inner tab accordingly.
Step 5- Insert the blade holder into your Graflex vintage or replica top, in order to position and glue the main switch. Then solder the wires to the switch. Do not glue the tactile switch directly on the metal blade holder, you have to insulate it.
Step 6- Assemble the CC insert 1 led and crystal (these instructions use the double 3D printed crystals available in our shop, they match the CC insert and have a slot to help insert the 5mm led).
Step 7- Add the multiboards adaptive chassis to the soundboard used.
Step 8- Once the wiring is done and tested, you can attach the soundboard to the chassis (tiny drop of super glue are used to secure it). Here you can see that all wires are hidden below the Soundboard, resulting in a clean install.
Step 9- Add the shell 1 to the assembly, there is a dedicated channel for all the wires. Continue testing your install.
Step 10- Add the shell 2 to the assembly, again there is a dedicated channel for all the wires.
Step 11- Add the 1.5mm OD rods to the assembly. On Variant 2, both side set of rods can be added when the Shell 2 is in place, however, note that on Variant 1, you have to add the 3 rods on Shell 1 side first, then add shell 2, then add the remaining 3 other side rods. As before, we use a tiny bit of super glue at the end of the rods to secure them.
Shell 1 side:
Shell 2 side:
Step 12- Add the 1.5mm OD rods to the speaker holder module and glue them.
Step 13- Add the 5mm crystal chamber accent led to CC Insert 2, and wire it as shown in the picture below. Pass the other wires through the dedicated channel as well (temporarily inserted CC insert 2 into Shell 2).
Step 14- Wire and install the recharge port in the speaker module. You have to cut the leads of the port to make it easier to insert it. We also add a ring to the recharge port (usually sold with it), to make sure the port sit flush (important not to have problem with the kill key sitting to high.
Test again that everything works fine, especially the recharge port. (We have also added a red accent led aside of the recharge port).
Step 15- Now take out CC insert 2 and glue it to the recharge port module, taking care everything is well aligned and centered. This will avoid any rattle.
Step 16- Insert the above assembly into shell 2, pulling out the wires from the back using pliers will insert now wires get in the way and stay properly in the dedicated channel. Also check that the bottom fits fine.
Step 17- Add the hex nuts and secure the assembly. The space is pretty narrow, it take a bit of time to get this done. Make sure the rods are clean there, the nuts have to screw easily.
Step 18- Wire and add the speaker to the speaker module (securing the speaker with a tiny drop of super glue is recommended – make sure you have tested it).
Step 19– Depending on the style (ANH, ESB or TFA), vent the Graflex bottom and add the grips and D-ring. If you’re installing a Vintage, we would recommend to leave the Vintage bottom not modded and use a replica bottom to install the grips and holes… the way you don’t “destroy” an antique flash, can show people where the saber comes from and convert it / change styles immediately by switching bottoms.
Step 20– Assemble the chassis into the top flash. The red button might need some additional material under it to activate the tactile switch correctly (depending on the blade holder used). You can glue a piece of plastic under the red button for that.
Step 21– Shorter a bit the clamp fins, so that they won’t be a problem when revealing the back section. The clamp must slide over the chassis while still be able to attache top and bottom halves.