Parts Details:

1- 3D printed Chassis parts:

Shapeways Shop Section ⇒ C2 – KR-Sabers 

Both chassis kit contain several highly detailed parts with optional crystal chamber (which can be printed in metal). They follow perfectly the curve of the hilts, and permits a very easy install, accessible to beginners.
Installer can choose between a single 18650 battery for 3.7v setup, or a dual 16340 pack for a 7.4v setup for the large hilt, and a single 18500 for the small hilt. They both accept a 20mm speaker. A kill key is also included in each kit.
Last but not least, both these chassis have a “MultiBoards Adaptive Chassis” design which allows any major soundboards to be installed (MAC 2.0 update with Prizm 5.1 compatibility).

SHIEN Chassis for the large hilt:

Prices: From approx $80 
(additional cost to add the optional Crystal Chamber depending on material used, starting from $15)

Install Level: Beginner

Part1 – Main chassis kit (recommended in black plastic): kr-ahsoka-shien-part1-main
 Part2 –
Optional Crystal Chamber insert (recommended in raw brass): kr-ahsoka-shien-part2-cc-insert
 Part3
Optional Crystal: kr-ahsoka-shien-part3-crystal

 

SHOTO Chassis for the small hilt: Available

Prices: From approx $70
(additional cost to add the optional Crystal Chamber depending on material used, starting from $15)

Install Level: Beginner

Part1 – Main chassis kit (recommended in black plastic): kr-ahsoka-shoto-part1-main
 Part2 – Optional Crystal Chamber insert (recommended in raw brass): kr-ahsoka-shoto-part2-cc
 
Part3
Optional Crystal (recommended in Ultra Frosted): kr-ahsoka-shoto-part3-crystal

Switch Drill Template:

Optional part – If you need to drill a second switch hole (only required for soundboard needing an auxiliary switch), this drill template will match with the switches holder included in both main chassis kit: kr-ahsoka-aux-switch-drill-template

2- DIY empty hilts:

 The Saber Armory by KR-Sabers

3- Additional chassis parts:

Chassis parts can be found in local hardware stores as well as on the web. eBay models shop is also a good source internationally to find small parts, check eBay model shops for instance: OmniModels, Cave Spring Hobby, ……..
You can also be inventive and add any custom parts, paint job or else to your chassis to give it an unique look!
Here is a list of parts needed to install the above chassis:
 Brass or copper rods – 1.5mm max OD – Ex: OmniModels

4- Electronic components:

Soundboard, check at Plecter Labs (also sold at TCSS) , or Naigon Electronic Creations.
Battery – Recommended from Solo’s Hold.
SHOTO – Single 18500 pre-wired for 3.7v setup.
SHIEN – Single 18650 (3.7v) or 2 x 16340 (7.4v).
 Wires, 30awg wires are recommended on most our 3D Printed chassis. We are buying them from this eBay seller.

KR-Sabers shop also sells the main component to build these hilts. Check The Saber Armory for the following:
 Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2
 Switch, tactile switches (here) – Select the option for 15mm height switch
 Speaker, 20mm Speakers flat or bass.

Both chassis also have 2 slots for micro-JST female plug (to quick disconnect the recharge port and to allow for a RICE to be installed with Plecter Labs Soundboards) => Micro-JST can be found on Ebay.

5- Blade:

The blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip. Complete blades can be found from various locations.
1″ or 7/8″ OD blades: Ex USA: TCSS, Ex EU: JQ-Sabers
You can also make your own using TCSS blade supplies.

 


WORK IN PROGRESS

Demo:

 

 


 

Installation instructions:

(step by step)

Note 1: 30awg wires and smaller are mandatory for this install (30awg for main wires and 32awg  for accent leds and switches are highly recommended)…. Oh and definitely use colored wires to make your life easier.

Note 2: These instructions will not cover how to wire the soundboard, make sure to learn how to by reading the manual.

Note 3: This instructions will details the install as much as possible. GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers tho. Thanks!

Note 4: Recharge port wiring reminder:

Note 5: Both Shoto and Shien chassis are quite similar in their install with only a few particularities.

 

MULTIBOARDS ADAPTIVE CHASSIS

 

WORK IN PROGRESS

(sorry for the delay – we’ll try to finish this page as soon as possible)

Step 1: Cut enough length of wires for the main led and switches.

Step 2: Install the 18500  (Shoto) or 18650 (Shien) battery in the dedicated slot, place the main led and switches wires on top of the battery, then add the battery cover. The 1.5mm will lock the cover in place and secure the battery.

Step 3 – Optional: If you have chosen to install the optional Crystal Chamber parts, insert the 5mm accent led in the 3D printed crystal (sand the led to make it fit completely in the crystal). Then insert the crystal into the CC part. The wires go through a dedicated hole under the crystal chamber part and then you can glue the part to the chassis body to secure it.

Step 4: Wire and install the 20mm speaker. The speaker holder area also has a hole for the wires.

Step 5 – Optional: To make it easier to disconnect the chassis from the recharge port (make easier to take the chassis out to access the SD card for example), you can add a micro JST in the slot indicated below:

 

Step 6: Install the soundboard

 

Step 7: Take the blade holder out, pass the main led wires through it, then wire and install the main led into it. Screw the led holder back to the main body.

Step 8: Wire and install the switch(es) in their dedicated chassis part, using the switch(es) wires.. There is another little part that goes over the switch(es) to lock it in place.

 

Step 9: Wire the recharge port to a male micro JST (if used this optional method, or directly to the battery/soudboard). Make sure that the recharge port leads are cut to the minimum needed to save space. Screw the recharge port in the main bode and connect it to the chassis.

 

Step 10: Place the chassis into the main body. Note that the Shien chassis has an additional part that can be used to secure the black grooved part and avoid it to rattle.

You can close the hilt. Your saber is completed.

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