Index:

=> Parts Details
=> Installation Instructions
=> Knight Chassis Instructions
=> Master Chassis Instructions


Parts Details: 

1- Hilt / GRAFLEX 2.0 Kit:

 Available on Korbanth.

 

2- 3D printed Chassis parts:

Shapeways Shop Section ⇒ C1-3 – Graflex 2..0 / 2.5
Grand Master – WIP ~Q3 2018
Master
 – Available
KnightVariant 1 Available
KnightVariant 2Available
KnightVariant 3WIP ~Q3 2018
PadawanAvailable

/!\ Important:
=>
All our chassis are compatible with the new Graflex 2.5 (2018)
=> All DV6 chassis can be used on the Graflex 2.0 using this adapter.

GRAND MASTER

Project to be started later this year.

MASTER

Multi-parts advanced chassis assembly, with metal shell and crystal chamber (revealed by unscrewing the bottom section). Easy access to the SD card and Recharge port (unscrewing the pommel only). Compatible with both 7/8″ and 1″ blade holders.
NEW MultiBoards Adaptive Chassis design => NB4, PRizm5.1, CF9, I3 (and other NEC boards).

Prices: From $168 (depending on materials used) – approx $250 with steel shell and brass CC inserts.
Install Level: Advanced

Part 1 – 2 items Battery + speaker modules (Plastic – best in Black): graflex2-0-master-chassis-1-7-battery
Part 2 – Shell 1 (Plastic / Metal – best in Polished Bronze Steel): graflex2-0-master-chassis-2-7-shell-1
Part 3 – 2 items Shells 2 (Plastic / Metal – best in Polished Bronze Steel): graflex2-0-master-chassis-3-7-shell-2
Part 4 – 2 items Shells 3 (Plastic / Metal – best in Black Plastic): graflex2-0-master-chassis-4-7-shell-3
Part 5 – CC Insert 1 (Plastic / Metal – best in Raw Brass or Bronze): graflex2-0-master-chassis-5-7-cc-1
Part 6 – CC Insert 2 (Plastic / Metal – best in Raw Brass or Bronze): graflex2-0-master-chassis-6-7-cc-2
Part 7 
– 2 items SB module + Kill Key (Plastic – best in Black): graflex2-0-master-chassis-7-7-soundboard
 
Crystal 
– Crystal, approx 1″ max length, and 11mm max OD or 3D printed

KNIGHT

Variant 1:
2 parts chassis assembly with integrated Crystal Chamber (revealed by unscrewing the bottom section). Easy access to the SD card and Recharge port (unscrewing the pommel only). Compatible with both 7/8″ and 1″ blade holders.
NEW MultiBoards Adaptive Chassis design => NB4, PRizm5.1, CF9, I3 (and other NEC boards).

Prices: Approx $80
Install Level: Intermediate
Part 1: Main part – Chassis shell => graflex2-0-knight-chassis-part-1-main-shell
(hold the battery and a 28mm premium speaker/railmaster or a 28mm bass speaker).
Part 2: MultiBoards Adaptive Chassis = graflex2-0-knight-chassis-variant-1-part2
 Crystal – Crystal, approx 1″ max length, and 11mm max OD
Optional, get your crystal 3D printed! (4 versions available): Ilum – sith  kyber  adegan


Variant 2:
Same shell (Part1) as the Variant 1, but with a chassis assembly containing 2 Crystal Chamber parts which can be printed in metal.
NEW MultiBoards Adaptive Chassis design => NB4, PRizm5.1, CF9, I3 (and other NEC boards).

Prices: From $130 (depending on materials used) – approx $170 with brass/bronze CC inserts.
Parts can always be printed in plastic and painted to lower the price.
Install Level: Intermediate
Part 1: Main part – Chassis shell => graflex2-0-knight-chassis-part-1-main-shell
(hold the battery and a 28mm premium speaker/railmaster or a 28mm bass speaker).
 Part 2: MultiBoards Adaptive Chassis => graflex2-0-knight-chassis-variant2-part3
 Part 3: CC Insert 1 => graflex2-0-knight-chassis-variant2-part3
 Part 4: CC Insert 2 => graflex2-0-knight-chassis-variant2-part4
 Crystal – Crystal, approx 1″ max length, and 11mm max OD
Optional, get your crystal 3D printed! (4 versions available): Ilum – sith  kyber  adegan

Variant 3:
Work in progress

PADAWAN

All-in-1 chassis for simple and budget install.
NEW MultiBoards Adaptive Chassis design => NB4, Prizm5.1, CF9, I3 (and other NEC boards), and still older boards (Prizm4 and CF8)

Prices: Approx $50
Install Level: Beginner
All.in.One: graflex-2-0-padawan-chassis-all-in-1 

 

3- Additional chassis parts:

Most of the chassis parts needed for our chassis are available at The Saber Armory.
Local hobby stores or online store (as well as eBay) are a good source for parts.
You can also be inventive and add any custom parts, wire mesh, paint job or else to your chassis to give it an unique look!
Retention screws – 6-32 set screws x2 (for the chassis and led module). Drill and tap would also be needed for the led module retention screw.
Master chassis:
⇒ 4-40 threaded rods x1
 Hex nuts for 4-40 rods x 1
⇒ Brass or copper rods – 1.5mm max OD – Mandatory for the chassis assembly
Knight chassis:
⇒ ~2.8mm rod (brass or copper) x5

 

4- Electronic components and blade:

Saber electronic components are basically more or less similar from one saber to another. You’ll need a main Led, a Battery, a recharge port, one or two switches, a soundboard, accent leds, a speaker and wires. Then the blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip.
Again, you can find most of what you’ll need at The Saber Armory. Local electronic shops or online stores like Digikey are also a good source.
Soundboard, the “heart” of our sabers is the Soundboard, here are the 2 major Soundboard producers:
Plecter Labs – from the entry level Nano Biscotte to the high end Crystal Focus.
Naigon Elelctronic Creations – from the entry level Spark to the high end I3.
Battery, 18650 battery for 3.7v or 2×16340 for 7.4v.
⇒ Recharge Port, 2.1mm port is used on these chassis (kill key included in the chassis kit).
 Battery charger, according to the battery voltage used.
 Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2 recommended (Neopixel setup also possible).
⇒ Heatsink / led module according to the blade holder (7/8″ or 1″)
 Switches, included with the hilt. For 2 switches install under the clamp card you can use our optional switch holder.
 Speaker, 28mm Speaker, either premium or bass
 Accent Leds, 5mm led for the Crystal Chamber recommended (if RGB, read your soundboard manual to select between common anode or common cathode led), 3mm leds for the others.
 Wires, 30awg wires are recommended on most our 3D Printed chassis. We are buying them from this eBay seller.
 Heat shrink tubing, to protect your joints.
 RICE port 
– a RICE port can be added with a micro jst port. Ex on ebay.
 7/8″ OD Blades (for stock Blade Holder) or 1″ OD blades (for 1″ Blade Holders).

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DIY Instructions:

Disclainer:
– These instructions will details the install procedure as much as possible. GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers.
– Always wear protective gear when working on install (gloves, eye protection, …), GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible in case of accident.

Note 1: 30 AWG wires are mandatory. 32 AWG are also recommended for switching and accent leds.

Note 2 Read the full instructions before starting your install. Commission an installer to build the hilt for you, if you feel unsure about what to do.

Note 3: About the Kill Key. It is recommended to sand a bit the side of the kill key “on/off” slot, in order to make them more round and to turn better in the recharge port. (as a reminder, this slot allow to start / stop the saber without removing the kill key).

Note 4: Recharge Port wiring reminder

Note 5: Understand the mods to the hilt to be install ready
1. cut a window (Dremel or mill) for the switch wires (/!\ not required if you use switches under the clamp card)
2. retention screw (drill and tap) for the heatsink / led module
The location marked as 1 is where a window (or large hole) must be opened for the switch wires to pass through.  The location marked as 2 is where the led module retention screw is located. Note that this is the glass eye side.

Note 6: NEW MutliBoards Adaptive Chassis (Feb2018):
For NB, Prizm5.1, CF9, I3 (and other NEC Soundboards)
Use an Xacto knife or equivalent to adapt the chassis (cut as shown below)

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KNIGHT CHASSIS INSTRUCTIONS

Step 1- Paint your chassis (not mandatory).

Step 2- Prepare enough length of your colored wires (according to the soundboard you’ll use) for the main led and switches. And pass them through the chassis dedicated channel.

Step 3- Insert the battery in the chassis (being careful the wires stay in the channel).
Notes: make sure the wires can be moved back and forth once the battery is inserted (they must not be stuck), this is very important for later in the install, as you will need to pull the wires toward the top when inserting the soundboard module into the shell.

Tips: You can add a bit of glue to stick / secure the battery to the top of the chassis.

Step 4- Insert the speaker. Solder the speaker wires and bend them to pass above the speaker (sanding the speaker plastic a bit will help.
Notes: Sanding a bit the speaker plastic will help giving more space to the wires to pass through and slide unblocked.

Insert the speaker through the side, facing the bottom of the chassis (sound through pommel)

Notes: continue to make sure the wires (except the speaker ones) can move back and forth.

Step 5 – Variant 1 Cut and install the crystal chamber rods. You can first clean the holes from any printing dust with a 4-40 threaded rod, or a round hand-file.

Notes: Make sure the rods sit flush into these holes. They must not stick out. Once the fit is fine, glue the rods into the holes.
Insert your crystal and add an accent led to light it up. If the 3D printed crystal are chosen, they have the advantage to be press fit and have a 5mm slot to help in holding the accent led.

Step 5 – Variant 2 Install the crystal chamber. Start by cutting the rods to the right length. The holes have the size of a 4-40 threaded rods (2.8mm OD max approx).

Assemble! Start with the CC part 2, place it into the chassis module. Then add the bottom rod. To secure everything properly, we use tiny drops of Super Glue. Next, add the CC part 1 to the module.

And add the remaining rods. Then last part, add the crystal and the accent led to light it up. If the 3D printed crystal are chosen, they have the advantage to be press fit and have a 5mm slot to help in holding the accent led.

Notes: if using a Plecter Labs CF on this MultiBoards Adptive Chassis, there is no room left for the CC accent led. The led has to be installed directly in the crystal. You can drill the 3D printed further to insert the led entirely into it or you can install the accent led above the crystal (gluing the led) in the wire channel (as it will still be hidden).

Step 6- Install the recharge port (and RICE port if you use one). Depending on your recharge port model, use a drill bit to open up the recharge port slot.

Step 7- Wire and install the soundboard into the dedicated module. The SD card is always facing up, whatever soundboard model or variant is used.

Adapt your chassis using an Xacto style knife (and th template at the beginning of these instructions).

Notes: to install the soundboard, insert the chassis module into the shell halfway in order to limit the length of wires.

Tips: It is obviously highly recommended you test your install (soundboard starting, sound, switches wires working fine, …) before proceeding further.

Step 8- Push the soundboard module into the shell. While pushing, you must also pull all the wires (so that they don’t get crammed in the channel or over the soundboard). The led wires must be pulled from the battery side and the Speaker and Battery wires from the slot above the speaker.

And lock the module into the shell. The speaker wires and battery wires can now be hidden by inserting them back behind the speaker. Then test again.


Step 9- Wire the main led. First, get the switch wires into the channel and then the led module doesn’t have to be attached to the chassis.

Step 10- Insert the chassis in the grenade section. Lock the chassis with the 6-32 retention screw (hole already present in the threaded area of the grenade section). Pull the switch wires out through the open window. Channel the switch wired through this hole so that they won’t get caught when inserting the shroud.

Push the led module down and lock it with the 2nd retention screw. And add the shroud, lock it just using this screw for now.

Step 11- Install the switch. Cut 2 of the leads on the switch PCB (be careful to cut them on the same side). The switch has to be inserted from the bottom of the screw, while the red piece is inserted from the top of the crew. So you can only glue the button together inside the screw (make sure the switch is properly centered into the screw, so that the switch will sit flush and properly glued to the red piece).

Tips: It is advised to protect the switch (Nitto tape / heatshrink tape).

Screw the switch assembly back onto the hilt, taking care the wires are properly passing through the channel. Test again!

Step 12- Attach the grips.

Step 13- Properly align the round hole of the grenade section and the shroud. Then screw back the “side switch” screw, the red button screw, the clamp screw, the glass one (or second red button) and the brass pins.

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MASTER CHASSIS INSTRUCTIONS

Step 1- Plan all the wires you’ll need for the main led (and switch if using the red button as main switch). Pass the wires into the battery module, then insert the battery.
Notes: it is advised to add a little drop of Super Glue to secure the battery into the module.

Step 2- Wire and install the speaker into the speaker module. The speaker slides in from the top of the module.
Notes: Again, you can add a drop of Super Glue to make sure the speaker is properly secured.

Step 3- Join the battery and speaker modules. Wires should slide in and over the speaker. Press fit the battery module into the speaker module. By turning it a bit, you can glue the area shown on the picture and turn it back again in place:

Make sure the wires are properly positioned and slide fine back and forth (important for later in the build). There is little room there, just enough for 30awg wires (6 max for the led, 3 max for the switches, 2 for the battery).

Step 4- Add the Shell 1 part to the assembly. And test with the 1.5mm OD rod that they go through fine from one side to another (like the picture below).
Notes: sometimes, Steel material needs a bit of additional work (like opening up a bit the holes with a drill bit, as this material printing process is slightly less accurate than plastic printing).

Step 5- Add the CC insert 1, and secure the assembly with the two 1.5mm rods. We use Super Glue to secure the rods.

As we plan on polishing the steel material further, we’ve left out the rods like on the pictures below. If you don’t want to polish the steel, a bit of additional efforts will be required for the rods to sit tight and right without using the Dremel (see later steps).

Step 6- Prepare the 2 addtional 1.5mm rods. The soundboard module chassis enters until touching the CC insert 1. Cut the rod length accordingly.

Step 7- Prepare the 4-40 threaded rods, as shown on the pictures below.

Step 8- Sand / Polish the rods (and steel part if you want). We use a Dremel flat wheel (with 15000 rpm).
If you don’t want to polish the entire outer areas of the steel shell, you just have to sand down the rods carefully or install them with the right length as mentioned before.

Notes: you can polish the rest of the shell parts to give a different (lighter color) look.

Step 9- Wire and install the recharge port, in the dedicated slot of the soundboard module:

Step 10- Install the Crystal chamber accent led, and the add the soundboard (example with a NB3). Remember to test your install before proceeding further.

Notes: if using a Plecter Labs CF on this MultiBoards Adptive Chassis, there is no room left for the CC accent led. The led has to be installed on the other side into CC insert 1 (making sure no wires touch the speaker) or directly in the crystal. You can drill the 3D printed further to insert the led entirely into it for example.

Step 14- Add the upper shell 2. You start from one side and snap it on the other side (from left to right on the pictures below). You have to glue a piece of 1.5mm rod into the hole to secure the shell part with the chassis. Cutting the brace/supports inside that part can help gaining more room for wires. They are needed to support the Steel print but not necessary for the chassis structure once printed.

And again, use the flat wheel (or hand file) to polish the rod.

Step 15- Add the lower shell 2, and both side of Shell 3

Step 16- Get the soundboard module assembled. To do so you have to pull all the wires from above the speaker.

The led and switch wires get pulled again from the front, the remaining speaker and battery wires get stored around the speaker.
Notes: On the final version, an additional 1.5mm OD rod hole has been added to hook the Shell 1 to the upper Shell 2 for increased stability of the overall assembly (same method as the rest, add the rod, glue it, cut and sand it).
img_4899
Test again the assembly.

Polishing the assembly further using a Dremel Flat Wheel is also possible at this point.

Step 17- Lock the chassis into the Grenade section using the 6-32 retention screw hole

Step 18- Finish your hilt.
(follow Knight chassis instructions from step 9)

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