Shapeways Shop Section ⇒ C6 – Vader MPP/DV6
3 parts chassis assembly with a distinctive Sith Design. Features MultiBoards Adaptive Chassis to hold all major soundboards currently available, and an innovative 2 parts soundboard cover that slides to give access to the SD card. The Crystal Chamber parts can either be printed in plastic and painted or printed in metal (Brass, Bronze and other precious metals). While being an advanced design, the chassis remains accessible for beginner, thanks to the DV6 being easy to install.
Prices: From $110 (depending on materials used) – approx $160 with brass/bronze CC inserts.
Install Level: Beginner
⇒ Part 1 – main chassis: vader-dv6-master-chassis-part-1-main-chassis
⇒ Part 2 – Crystal Chamber Insert 1: vader-dv6-master-chassis-part-2-cc-insert-1
⇒ Part 3 – Crystal Chamber Insert 2: vader-dv6-master-chassis-part-3-cc-insert-2
Optional adapter to use the chassis on a Graflex 2.0: graflex-2-0-adapter-for-dv6-chassis
Prices: Approx $50
Install Level: Beginner
⇒ All.In.One – SITH Apprentice All.In.One Chassis
⇒ Available on Korbanth.
Most of the chassis parts needed for our chassis are available at The Saber Armory.
Local hobby stores or online store (as well as eBay) are a good source for parts.
You can also be inventive and add any custom parts, wire mesh, paint job or else to your chassis to give it an unique look!
Sith Master, here is a list of parts needed to install it:
⇒ Brass or copper rods – 1.5mm max OD
4– Electronic components and blades:
Saber electronic components are basically more or less similar from one saber to another. You’ll need a main Led, a Battery, a recharge port, one or two switches, a soundboard, accent leds, a speaker and wires. Then the blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip.
Again, you can find most of what you’ll need at The Saber Armory. Local electronic shops or online stores like Digikey are also a good source.
⇒ Soundboard, the “heart” of our sabers is the Soundboard, here are the 2 major Soundboard producers:
Plecter Labs – from the entry level Nano Biscotte to the high end Crystal Focus.
Naigon Elelctronic Creations – from the entry level Spark 2 to the high end I2.
⇒ Battery, 18650 battery for 3.7v or 2×16340 for 7.4v.
⇒ Recharge Port, 2.1mm port is used on this chassis (kill key included in the chassis kit).
⇒ Battery charger, according to the battery voltage used.
⇒ Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2 recommended
⇒ Heatsink for 7/8″ blade holder (Neopixel setup also possible)
⇒ Switches, main switch is included with the hilt.
⇒ On / Off Switch, an optional on/off switch can also be installed (Ex: The Saber Armory).
⇒ Speaker, 28mm Speaker, either flat or bass
⇒ Accent Leds, 5mm led for the Crystal Chamber recommended (if RGB, read your soundboard manual to select between common anode or common cathode led), 3mm leds for the others.
⇒ Wires, 30awg wires are recommended on most our 3D Printed chassis. We are buying them from this eBay seller.
⇒ Heat shrink tubing, to protect your joints.
⇒ 7/8″ OD Blades only.
MutliBoards Adaptive Chassis (v1.0) – Gently cut the chassis with an Exacto knife, following the pattern below according to the soundboard you want to install:
UPDATE: Plecter Labs new Prizm 5.1 is smaller than previous versions (4 and 5), you can purchase this adapter piece to make this new board fit into the chassis, after cutting the Prizm pattern shown above.
Note 1: Please read these instructions fully before starting.
Note 2: These instruction will cover the Plecter Labs Prizm 4 install, however the MultiBoards Adaptive Chassis will allow other soundboards to be installed. We do not cover wiring instructions tho, please read your soundboard manual before starting the install.
Note 3: 30awg wires and smaller are mandatory for this install (30awg for main wires and 32awg for accent leds and switches are highly recommended).
Note 4: These instructions will details the install as much as possible. GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers tho. Thanks to read the full instructions before starting your install. Commission an installer to build the hilt for you, if you feel unsure about what to do.
Note 5: You can always make your chassis original by painting it or adding metal mesh.
Note 6: About the Kill Key. It is recommended to sand a bit the side of the kill key “on/off” slot, in order to make them more round and to turn better in the recharge port. (as a reminder, this slot allow to start / stop the saber without removing the kill key).
Step 4: Wire the recharge port. The leads have to be cut to their minimum in order to gain space. Test the recharge port fitment by inserting it from outside, clear the hole a bit if required (using hand file or a drill bit).
Step 5 (optional): If you don’t want to use the kill key provided with the chassis kit, you can install instead a on/off slider switch (example link under the electronic component section above – Updated the switch slot for a better one / these pictures are made with the old switch).
Step 7: Time to prepare the crystal chamber inserts. Start with the CC Insert 2 (Part 3). If you use the optional 3D printed crystal, use the short one, and sand a bit the 5mm led to make it shorter.
Notes: you can add additional led on the back as well as metal mesh.
Step 8: It is required to glue the CC insert into place to secure it (tiny bits of super glue will do fine). To properly guide the CC insert into place while gluing it, use long 1.5mm rods (be careful not to glue the rods tho).
Step 9: Prepare CC insert one (here we use a 5mm common anode RGB accent led FYI). Smae remark as before, if you use the 3D printed crystal, use the long one and send a bit your accent led for it to fit flush.
Step 16: Install the soundboard covers. They use four 1.5mm OD rods, two of them cover the full length, and the 2 others stop at the SD card level (see pictures below). Start by installing the flat cover, then the rounded one, and then secure them with the 2 longs rods.
Add the 2 short rods, and test that the rounded cover slide back and forth properly. Once tested fine, glue the rods with a bit of super glue as shown below. Finally, glue the flat cover to the main chassis so that it won’t move (again, only tiny bits of super glue are sufficient).
Step 17: Insert the chassis into the hilt upper section. The chassis is press fitting the section, gently force it in place (or sand a bit the upper section ID and add a retention screw to secure the chassis – drill and tap required). Make sure to fold the switches wires properly, so that they can be extracted easily throught the upper section switch holes.
Step 18: Secure the led module using the 6-32 retention screw hole (using a short retention screw).
Step 19: Wire the switches and install the control box and switch plungers.
Notes: On the version we received, both switch were acting as one (connected to each others), this is ok for NB use. But since we needed an Aux switch, we sanded the card at the middle to disconnect them.