Shapeways Shop Section ⇒ C8 – Romans Props
Prices: Depends on the materials selected and Shapeways current rate. Build your cart using the links below in order to get a price estimate for the full chassis.
Can also be printed in plastic (and painted) to lower the cost.
Crystal chamber parts are optional, buy only part1 for a Padawan equivalent chassis.
This chassis has MultiBoards Adaptive Chassis 4.0 (NB, Proffieboard, Prizm5.1, CF9, I3 or other NEC equivalent).
Install Level: Intermediate
⇒ Part 1 – Main Chassis: roman-luke-v4-part1-main-chassis
⇒ Part 2 – CC Shell: roman-luke-v4-part2-cc-shell
⇒ Part 3 – CC Inserts: roman-luke-v4-part3-cc-inserts
⇒ Part 4 – Crystals (optional): roman-luke-v4-part3-crystals
Most of the chassis parts needed for our chassis are available at The Saber Armory.
Local hobby stores or online store (as well as eBay) are a good source for parts.
You can also be inventive and add any custom parts, wire mesh, paint job or else to your chassis to give it an unique look!
⇒ Brass or copper rods x5 – 1.5mm max OD
⇒ Wire sleeve (example) – optional, to cover the wires passing through the CC Shell
⇒ Magnets 3mmx2mm x4
4- Electronic components:
Saber electronic components are basically more or less similar from one saber to another. You’ll need a main Led, a Battery, a recharge port, one or two switches, a soundboard, accent leds, a speaker and wires. Then the blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip.
You can find most of what you’ll need at The Saber Armory. Some components can also be found at The Saber Bay on Etsy. Local electronic shops or online stores like Digikey are also a good source.
⇒ Soundboard, the “heart” of our sabers is the Soundboard:
Plecter Labs – from the entry level Nano Biscotte to the high end Crystal Focus.
Naigon Elelctronic Creations – I3 or other equivalent sized sounboards (Spark, ..)
⇒ Battery, 18650
⇒ Recharge Port 1.3mm High Amp Recharge port
⇒ Slider switch High Amp kill switch
⇒ Pogo-pins connector for an easy CC reveal (example)
⇒ Battery charger
⇒ Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2 or Neopixel
⇒ Switches, 6×6 tactile switch the control box (holder included in the main chassis).
⇒ Speaker, 28mm bass speaker
⇒ Pins, to connect the speaker module to the main chassis (Ex: Male / Female)
⇒ Accent Leds, 3mm and 5mm accent leds
⇒ Wires, we strongly recommend PTFE wires, as the insulation is thin while still able to handle current very well. You can find them from this eBay shop for example. Use the smallest AWG size possible:
– Tri-Cree install => 30awg for eveything
– Neopixel install => 32 awg wires for everything except Battery and Neopixel strip + and – (24awg PTFE).
⇒ Heat shrink tubing, to protect your solder joints.
⇒ 1″ OD blade for the main blade.
– These instructions will details the install procedure as much as possible. GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers.
– Always wear protective gear when working on install (gloves, eye protection, …), GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible in case of accident.
Cut the various part attached in the Part1 assembly
It contains: Main Chassis, Pogo-pin connectors holders (2), Speaker Holder and Switches holder.
The CC inserts (part3) and crystals (Part4) are inserted from both sides of the CC Shell (Part2).
The CC has open wire channels, wire sleeves can be used for a nice effect, or bare wires for a more custom look.
The CC uses 1.5mmOD rods to be glued on the rest of the chassis.
Wire the pogo-pin connector, and super glue the holder to the CC shell.
Then super glue the CC assembly back to the main chassis.
Wire and insert the battery, by pressing it into the chassis (1). Install the speaker female pin connector (2), the recharge port (3), the Kill switch (4) and the magnets (5). all to be secured with a bit of super glue.
Install the soundboard, also secured by super glue on the holder (MAC 4.0 to be cut according to the soundboard used).
Add the magnets and male pins to the speaker holder.
Add the speaker, with a thin wire (nylon or couture) to be able to pull the speaker module off the hilt.