⇒ Contact Solo’s Hold
These chassis will hold a Blaster Core V5, with a 2×14500 7.4v battery pack.
2 versions are available:
– V1 for a Railmaster box DS1436-8 speaker, with sound coming out from the barrel.
– V2 for a Railmaster 28mm DS28RND speaker, with sound coming out from the side plate (holes to be added).
They also both can hold 6 optional 3mm accent leds.
Prices: From approx $60
Install Level: Beginner
⇒ Brass or copper rods – 1.5mm max OD – optional – Ex: The Saber Armory
4- Electronic components:
⇒ Soundboard: Plecter Labs Blaster Core.
⇒ Battery: 2×14500 (7.4v).
⇒ Recharge Port, 2.1mm port.
⇒ Battery charger for 7.4v battery.
⇒ Switches are included with the Blaster.
⇒ Speaker: V1 – box DS1436-8 (Railmaster) or V2 – 28mm Speaker flat premium.
⇒ Accent Leds, 3mm leds can be installed on these chassis.
⇒ Wires, 30awg wires are recommended on most our 3D Printed chassis. We are buying them from this eBay seller.
⇒ On / Off Switch, optional. Ex E-Switch 500ASSP1M2QE rated for 3A on Digikey or Mouser.
Note 1: These instruction will cover the Plecter Labs Blaster Core install, however we do not cover wiring instructions, please read your soundboard manual before starting the install.
Note 2: 30awg wires and smaller are mandatory for this install (30awg for main wires and 32awg for accent leds and switches are highly recommended).
Note 3: Theses instructions will details the install as much as possible. GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers tho. Thanks. Read the full instructions before starting your install. Commission an installer to build the hilt for you, if you feel unsure about what to do.
Note 4: There are various ways to install this blaster, these instructions will cover how our Demo blaster has been built. This is just an example but will give enough info to understand how to install yours.
Note 5: Recharge port wiring reminder:
Please watch the following assembly video to learn more on how to put your kit together. We’ll cover this as well in the following instructions.
Step 0- You can weather your blaster at any time during the build. For example, we started the weathering “after the grip assembly and we used black spray paint for the groove, a bit of blue paint and sepia oil for the nozzle, and Aluminium Black for the general weathering.
Step 1- Start by assembling the left plate / grip
Step 2- Assemble the hammer. The parts shown below must be glued together. Place the hammer base in it’s slot.
Step 3- Add the hammer plate (the groove facing up). Note that the screws must be filed down a bit in order to not black the hammer base from moving back and forth (the screws must not appear in the slot, as shown on the 3rd picture below).
Step 4- Test the switch position (the bottom switch lead has been cut to be able to fit properly). The goal here is to see where the switches will be properly activated by the hammer or the trigger.
Step 5- Wire the switches, and glue them in the position marked in the precedent step. Trigger switch goes first, pass the wires as shown in the pictures below. Note that we have filed the corner of the Aux switch to allow more room with the main switch wires to ass through. Then glue the Aux switch in, and all wires exist like shown in the 3rd picture below.
Notes: The main switch / trigger uses a little spring included in the kit. You can also add a spring for the hammer. We have taken a pen spring, cut to the right length and flattened a bit to fit between the hammer cover plate and the hammer base. Check the demo video, it’s a good improvement to make the Aux switch easier to use.
Step 5- You can now put the right plate and add the three screws as well as the grip. Squeeze well the plates together, the screws are a bit hard to turn but will go all the way through the 3 parts. Add the 4 little screws (2 on both sides) to finish the back of the blaster.
Step 6- Add the back plate, and use 3 screws to attache it. The wires will exit as shown below.
Step 7- Now, the body parts are assembled temporarily to locate the side squared plates properly. We start first with the right plate, so leave the blaster left plate open / removed, glue the black plate from inside, making sure not to glue the body parts together (as the need to be dismounted). Once the right cover plate is done and properly assembled, do the same with the left plate.
Notes: we have used the V2 chassis with sound coming out from the side. To add sound vent to the left black square, we have chosen to continue the groove line. This is just for information, you can choose the method you prefer (holes, lines, …).
IMPORTANT: Blaster Core allows various possibilities to add FX to your blaster. The following electronic install shows how we have installed our demo blaster, but is just an example (and some steps are as such optional). As mentioned, we have used the V2 Chassis with sound on the side, so that it would make easier to add FX in the barrel / nozzle. Indeed, we tried to use most of the Blaster Core features (so one Hi-power led for flash and aux flash, 6 accent led for the ray propagation, and 6 accent led indicator on the chassis). Please read the Blaster Core manual properly before deciding what led effects you’ll want to use on your blaster.
Step 8- (optional install example) we have installed the high power led in the nozzle, as we had an old spare Saberforge X4 led (Cree XBD). We have sanded the 5deg lens using a dremel sand drum, until it fitted into the nozzle. We have also reduced the diameter of the led base to fit into the nozzle back.
Step 9- (optional install example) We’ve added a “led strip” done with 5mm leds. We used double sided tape to secure the strip in the barrel so that it doesn’t appear when looking through the holes.
Notes: Due to the fact that we’ve added electronics into the barrel / nozzle, we’ve have chosen not to glue the part linking the barrel to the body. We’ve used double sided tape, which made both part press fitting together, solid enough, but still allowing dismount in case of maintenance required.
Step 10- (recommended) The hole in the upper body is a bit small if many wires are to pass trough, or if the V1 chassis is used as it is where the sound will pass trough up to the barrel. Using a good driller, it is easy to expand the hole with a bigger metal drill bit.
Step 11- (recommended) The lower front plate will be removable to access the recharge port / switch and SD card. The big cylinder screw will serve to lock the plate in place, while the 3 smaller screws will be cosmetic only. First, the upper middle screw must be sanded down on the chassis side, so that the screw won’t interfere when closing the plate. Then, we recommend to glue the 2 bottom screw on the plate, and then to bore out the threaded hole. The result will allow the screw to help align the plate while screwing the big cylinder.
Step 12- Assemble the barrel to the upper body, without forgetting to screw the front plate in between (then we’ve locked the barrel using a small retention screw), inside the same hole as the side plate screw. Note that as the Solo’s Hold assembly video mention, a longer screw can also be used on the right side plate to achieve the same lock on the barrel assembly.
Step 13- The chassis install starts with the recharge port. Cut the recharge port leads to their minimum in order to free space for the battery pack. Wire it and install it in the chassis using the hex nut to secure it. Note that if you don’t want to use the kill key included with the chassis, a slider on/off switch can also be installed (on the negative wire going to the soundboard).
Step 14- Wire and install the speaker
Step 15- Install the optional 1.5mm OD rods and cut them to the right length.
Step 16- (optional install example) Both V1 and V2 chassis can host 6 x 3mm accent leds. We have installed them on our demo blaster.
Step 17- To install the Blaster Core, the first 2 pictures below show how to have the parts and chassis assembled (the back is still separated from the upper body and barrel assembly, then all wires pass through the chassis to exit by the soundboard slot).
Notes: To not take additional space, we used smd resistors for the accent leds, as described in the manual. Same for the main flash hi power led, 5W 4.5ohm (red) and 3.5ohm (blue) smd resitors have been used, they take much less space than normal 5w resistor and are easy to find (for example on Digikey).
Step 18- Test everything (final tests before completing the install).
Step 19- Assemble the barrel / upper body to the rest (2 screws with secure it to the back plate, and 2 other screw will attach it to the right plate). Then you can add the left plate, and the lower front plate.
Notes: for an easy chassis reveal, one could think to attach the left plate using magnets. We haven’t tested that.