– Return to Luke V2 Chassis Line-Up –

Parts Details:

1- ROTJ Luke V2 Hilt:

 Contact Solo’s Hold

2- 3D printed Chassis parts:

Part 1 (Plastic – Recommended Black) – Contains: Main Chassis, switch cover, battery module, board cover, switch plunger and kill key.
For CF and PC: v2-01-1-cf7-5-pc3-5-master-chassis-part1-main
For PRIZM: v2-01-1-prizm-master-chassis-part1-main
For I2: v2-01-1-i2-master-chassis-part1-main

Part 2 CC Shell (Steel recommended): v2-01-2-cc-master-chassis-part2-cc-shell
Part 3 CC Insert 1 (raw brass or bronze recommended): v2-01-3-cc-master-chassis-part3-cc-insert
Part 4 CC Insert 2 (raw brass or bronze recommended): v2-01-4-cc-master-chassis-part4-cc-insert-2

3- Additional chassis parts:

Chassis parts can be found in local hardware stores as well as on the web. eBay models shop is also a good source internationally to find small parts, check eBay model shops for instance: OmniModelsCave Spring Hobby, ……..
You can also be inventive and add any custom parts, paint job or else to your chassis to give it an unique look!
Here is a list of parts needed to install the above chassis:
⇒ 4-40 threaded rods x 2
 Hex nuts for 4-40 rods x 4
⇒ Brass or copper rods – 1.5mm max OD  To be cut with the following length: 2x24mm, 1x42mm, 2x56mm, 1x50mm, 1x12mm, 2x11mm, 2x7mm (total length 300mm). (note for the Prizm version, instead of 2x56mm and 1x50mm, you can cut 3×56).
 Crystal – real quartz – approx 30mm max length, and 10mm max OD

4- Electronic components and blades:

Saber electronic components are basically more or less similar from one saber to another. You’ll need a main Led, a Battery, a recharge port, one or two switches, a soundboard, accent leds, a speaker and wires. Then the blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip.

You can search these parts with the following suppliers: Solo’s Hold, The Saber ArmoryElegant WeaponsJQ-Sabers

Soundboard, the “heart” of our sabers is the Soundboard, here are the 2 major Soundboard producers:
Plecter Labs – from the entry level Nano Biscotte to the high end Crystal Focus.
Naigon Elelctronic Creations – from the entry level Spark 2 to the high end I2.
Battery, 18650 battery for 3.7v or 2×16340 for 7.4v.
⇒ Recharge Port, 2.1mm port is used on this chassis (kill key included in the chassis kit).
 Battery charger, according to the battery voltage used.
 Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2
 Switches, are included with the hilt.
 Speaker, 28mm Speaker flat premium only
 Accent Leds, 5mm led for the Crystal Chamber recommended (if RGB, read your soundboard manual to select between common anode or common cathode led), 3mm leds for the others.
 Wires, 30awg wires are recommended on most our 3D Printed chassis. We are buying them from this eBay seller.
 Heat shrink tubing, to protect your joints.
 RICE port 
– a RICE port can be added to the CF and Prizm chassis. Ex TCSS..
 7/8″ OD Blades only.

 


 

DIY Instructions:

Note 1These pics are taken from the prototype install, a few mods were made since then, without changing the overall procedures.

Note 2: These instruction will cover the Plecter Labs CF install, however we do not cover wiring instructions tho, please read your soundboard manual before starting the install.

Note 3: Installing CEx satellite board for color mixing is obviously not mandatory, but these instruction show the complete install (and prove everything fits).

Note 430awg wires and smaller are mandatory for this install (30awg for main wires and 32awg  for accent leds and switches are highly recommended).

Note 5:  The whole hilt is meant to be install friendly, however, good skills will be needed to install the “Master” tier chassis (cram-fu, precise soldering, …). These instructions will details the install as much as possible. GOTH-3Designs cannot be  held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers tho. Thanks. Read the full instructions before starting your install. Commission an installer to build the hilt for you, if you feel unsure about what to do.

Note 6Please watch this video as well from Solo’s Hold.

Note 7: About the Kill Key. It is recommended to sand a bit the side of the kill key “on/off” slot, in order to make them more round and to turn better in the recharge port. (as a reminder, this slot allow to start / stop the saber without removing the kill key).

Note 8: Recharge port wiring reminder:


 

Step 1- Cut the 1.5mm rods to each length.

Step 2- You can start by inserting the rods in the CC.

Tips: It might be necessary to “clear” a bit all the rods holes depending on the material used for the print (including the 4-40 rod holes).

Step 3- Assemble you CC (chassis part 2 and 3). The particularity here is that the part 3 is inserted from the side into the part 2. Check that first assembly is perfectly round, otherwise, roll it gently on a flat surface (sometimes, 3D metal print thin fins warp a bit, but can be easily put back to normal round form with gentle press on them). Part should properly snap together.

Step 4- Insert your crystal and add the remaining CC part (chassis part 4), with the 4-40 threaded rod (sand the threaded rods a bit if you see they do not enter and slide easily into the dedicated holes°. Optional, you can add 2 additional tubes over the rods while inserting them (give another accent, but also helps locking the whole structure). Keep your assembly for later.

Step 5- Take the main chassis, and insert the small rods into the back of it.

Step 6- Wire your speaker and insert it in the dedicated area. Enter the wires first, the speaker should slide it without any force.

Tips: Normally, there is no need for glue here, use the additional thickness of the solder pads to block the speaker at the end of the speaker slot. I have no movement on my speaker once inserted.

Step 7- Wire your recharge Port and Rice port. Always try to minimize the number of wires in your install, like wiring these grounds together for instance.

Tips: clear the holes first by inserting the port from the other side. These port do not thread in, nuts are used to attach them. Use a drill bit to clear the hole further if your recharge port model doesn’t go in easily.

Step 8- Install the 2 ports, and cover them with electrical tape (for security). There is a channel below the switches for the 2 battery wires. Pass the wires through this channel to free some space in your install current area.

Step 9- Sand the border of your CEx, and insert it exactly as show in the picture below (the only way it can fit anyway), and wire it according to the manual. Pass the 4 main led wires through the same channel as the battery wires, above the speaker and then under the switches.

Step 10- Optional, you can add a 3mm accent led on the chassis side. You can use this led as power indicator (like presently installed), or as one of the available accent leds.

Step 11- Here is how the CF board insert in the chassis (same as CEx, sand the border of the board to make sure they are flat, and to help it fits better). Do not insert it all the way, just to check it’s going to fit OK.

Step 12- Once you’ve tested the board fits properly, wire the CF with the recharge port, CEx and power indicator led (or accent led)

Tips: Do not forget to prepare you accent leds pads with the proper resistors or bridges. This install is also done with 4 green accent leds (no resistor needed) on pad 1 to 4, and the CC RGB accent led on Pad 5 to 7, set up to miror the blade. Check the manual thoroughly if you are unsure (or ask your favorite installer).

Tips: From this point of the install, make sure to test your install regularly (wiring temporarily the battery pack to the recharge port). The point is to check that the boards starts fine (boot sound is heard).

Step 13- Insert your board into the chassis and clip it.

Step 14- Solder the RICE wires and main led wires.

Step 16- Properly prepare your RGB CC accent led wires, and solder them to pads 5, 6 and 7

Tips: If you wired you main led Red on CF main pad, Green on CEx channel 1, and Blue on CEx channel 2 => your accent led wires as follow, R on pad 5, G on pad 6 and B on Pad 7.

Step 17- Add the Crystal chamber assembly in the chassis, using small brass nuts (available at TCSS) to lock the rods.

Tips: Make sure you use very clean rods (it is recommended to use the uncut side of the rods here), in order for the brass nuts to screw as easily as possible (test it before the assembly). The isn’t much space available to screw the nuts here (that is the max I could allocate), so the way to do it, is to lock the nut with small pliers, and spin the rod itself (screw the rod on the nut, and not the way around… that’s why it was needed to clear the holes of the crystal chamber parts before, to allow the rod to spin properly).

Step 18- Install your 5mm RGB accent led into the dedicated slot.

Tips: You may have noticed the CC has a 5mm led slot on each side, you can wire you RGB accent led on either side. You can also have a led on both sides, or for example use a White (or any other color) led on accent pad 8 (FOC for the CC). This install was done with only an RGB accent led installed on Chassis Part 4 side.

Step 19- Wire your switches. Important: clearance is very important for the switches install, it has all been calculated very closely. it is not recommended to solder the switches before inserting them in the chassis. Better follow this order: 1 – Insert the switches in the slots on the chassis, 2 – Tin the switches pads, 3 – Solder the wires.

Step 20- Add the cover, by sliding it (and making sure the wires stay on the side of the switches). (and test your install again before going further)

Step 21- Wire the battery and insert it into the dedicated module. Don’t forget to also pass the 6 main led wires in the wires channel of the battery module before inserting the battery.

Tips: using pre-wired batteries (like those sold by Solo’s Hold) is recommended. The battery wires from the battery should face the emitter side, and go back all the way into the battery chassis module. In other words, solder your battery to your install leaving enough wire length to insert it with the flat battery side facing the CC. JST connector cannot be used.

Notes: On this present demo, the 4-40 threaded rods are attached to the beginning of the battery module. This has been modified in the final version. Now the rods go all the way into the battery module => gives a better structural strength and makes it easier to attach the hex nuts.

 

Your chassis is now ready

 

Step 22- Pass the wires into the neck and lock them in the emitter.

Step 23- Insert your chassis (should slide without any issue). And check the chassis hole is centered into the window as shown in the picture.

Step 24- Add your 1/4″ 6-32 screw. The chassis is now secured and can slide back and forth without spinning.

Step 25- Prepare your clamp (continue reading the instructions before doing it). I have sanded totally the fins on the emitter side and just partially the fins on the pommel side.

Step 26- Position your clamp on the hilt. There is a small area where the remaining clamp fins will sit, in order to prevent it to move once closed.

The clamp can only be installed without the lever, expand the clamp, put it in position, and screw the lever once properly placed to secure it. The clamp shouldn’t move and about 3mm space would remain once the lever locked.

Very important to read: Do not fasten the lever too much, you would risk to break the lever threaded rod. No force need to be apply when screwing the lever (in open position). Always proceed slowly step by step (revolution by revolution: screw your lever in open position, close it, check the clamp fit, proceed again if moving) until the clamp holds fine.

Step 27- Switch plunger step, this is the most delicate part of the install.

Very important to read: this will thus require tinkering / sanding to reach the proper stage where the clamp card, plunger and switches work properly. As each clamp, clamp card can end up a bit different, it is impossible to plan ahead the proper clearances. For instance, the clamp card needs to be sanded to allow clearance under it to be pressed down. This cannot be planned ahead exactly.

Notes: The plunger part is too tall on purpose, this will permit to sand it step by step until reaching to the right level… So overall, proceed with caution and with small steps:

a) Start by testing the plunger and switches => the plunger is designed to rest on the hilt without interfering with the chassis (allowing it to slide out and in). If you notice the chassis is chocking to much with the plunger when sliding it out and in the hilt (be gentle not to break the plunger, do not apply force), very carefully sand the 2 plungers part (baby steps) test again and again until you see that both the switches work when the plunger is pressed (without the clamp card at this point) and that the chassis slides without chocking against the plungers. This is a thin and delicate part, again, be very gentle!

b) Sand your clamp card (usually the ESB side on Slothfurnace card), at least 1mm.

c) Insert the card, it should not insert properly cause the plunger is too tall (again, on purpose). So slowly sand down the top of the plunger part (baby steps again)… test and test and test again until both switches activation work properly, as well as sliding the chassis out and back in.

Notes: It’s not so hard, not so easy either, but the result is worth it. This system allows you to reveal your chassis without any stress on the switches wires. It also make the install easier, as everything is wired directly on the chassis without anything attached to the hilt apart from the main led (this makes maintenance much easier as well).

Step 28- Solder and install your led into the emitter. Make sure your 6 wires are well twisted together to makes it easy to push down the neck, as well as prevent any issues at the chassis level (as a slack is left there to be able to slide the chassis out).

Step 29- Your install now works fine, add the cover over the board, with the help of the 1.5mm rods.

 

All done!! Congrats and enjoy 😉

 

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