– Return to Ahsoka TCW Chassis Line-Up –

Parts Details:

1- Ahsoka Large Hilt:

 Contact Solo’s Hold

2- 3D printed Chassis parts:

 NB / 14500 battery / 20mm bass speaker => shoto-nb-nwx-ahsoka-small-nb-kit
 CS / 14500 battery / 20mm bass speaker => shoto-prz-nwx-ahsoka-small-prizm-kit
 Prizm / 14500 battery / 20mm bass speaker => shoto-prz-nwx-ahsoka-small-prizm-kit
 I2 / 14500 battery / 20mm bass speaker => shoto-nb-nwx-ahsoka-small-i2-kit

3- Additional chassis parts:

Chassis parts can be found in local hardware stores as well as on the web. eBay models shop is also a good source internationally to find small parts, check eBay model shops for instance: OmniModelsCave Spring Hobby, ……..
You can also be inventive and add any custom parts, paint job or else to your chassis to give it an unique look!
Here is a list of parts needed to install the above chassis:
⇒ Brass or copper rods – 1.5mm max OD – Ex: OmniModels 
 Crystal – optional (max 8mm OD, 25mm length), or 3D printed crystal => shoto-crystal

4- Electronic components and blades:

Saber electronic components are basically more or less similar from one saber to another. You’ll need a main Led, a Battery, a recharge port, one or two switches, a soundboard, accent leds, a speaker and wires. Then the blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip.

You can search these parts with the following suppliers: Solo’s Hold, The Saber ArmoryElegant WeaponsJQ-Sabers

Soundboard, the “heart” of our sabers is the Soundboard, here are the 2 major Soundboard producers:
Plecter Labs – from the entry level Nano Biscotte to the high end Crystal Focus.
Naigon Elelctronic Creations – from the entry level Spark 2 to the high end I2.
Battery, 18650 battery for 3.7v or 2×16340 for 7.4v.
⇒ Recharge Port, 2.1mm port is used on this chassis (kill key included in the chassis kit).
 Battery charger, according to the battery voltage used.
 Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2 recommended
 Heatsink (1″ led module) is included with the hilt.
 Switches are included with the hilt.
 Speaker, 20mm Speaker only
 Accent Leds, 5mm led for the Crystal Chamber recommended (if RGB, read your soundboard manual to select between common anode or common cathode led), 3mm leds for the others.
 Wires, 30awg wires are recommended on most our 3D Printed chassis. We are buying them from this eBay seller.
 Heat shrink tubing, to protect your joints.
 RICE port 
– a RICE port can be added with a micro jst port. Ex on ebay.
 7/8″ OD Blades  or 1″ OD blades.

When the blade is removed, you can add a blade plug for security and aesthetic ⇒ Example in the shop

 


 

DIY Instructions:

Note 1 These instruction will cover the Plecter Labs Prizm install, however we do not cover wiring instructions tho, please read your soundboard manual before starting the install.

Note 2: 30awg wires and smaller are mandatory for this install (30awg for main wires and 32awg  for accent leds and switches are highly recommended).

Note 3:  The whole hilt is meant to be install friendly, however, intermediate skills will be needed to install the saber (cram-fu, precise soldering, …). These instructions will details the install as much as possible. GOTH-3Designs cannot be  held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers tho. Thanks. Read the full instructions before starting your install. Commission an installer to build the hilt for you, if you feel unsure about what to do.

Note 4: About the Kill Key. It is recommended to sand a bit the side of the kill key “on/off” slot, in order to make them more round and to turn better in the recharge port. (as a reminder, this slot allow to start / stop the saber without removing the kill key).

Note 5: Recharge port wiring reminder:


 

Step 1- Wire and install your speaker into the dedicated area in the chassis as shown below.

 

Step 2- Wire and install your main led into the 1″ led module provided with the hilt.

 

Step 3- Wire and install the switches provided into the led module. We first sand off one side of the leads, so that they won’t be shorts once installed in the heatsink (insulating the switches before installing them is also necessary).

 

Step 4- Add the switch plungers to the hilt, then slide in the led module in. Once checked that the switch are well aligned with the plungers, lock the led module using the retention screw provided with the hilt. Make sure to test your switches before going further.

 

Step 5- Wire and install the recharge port (you’ll need to cut the lead to the minimum first).

Notes: the chassis have wire channels as shown below. We recommend to make the channel hole on the first pictures bigger if you plan to use a RGB accent led (use a drill bit and a Dremel to do so).

Notes: You can “hide” the recharge port using wire mesh or else.

 

Step 6- Wire the “crystal” accent led. Here we have used the 3D printed crystal with a modded (lenght reduced) 5mm RGB led.

 

Step 6- Wire and install the 14500 battery. The battery insert in the battery holder as shown below.

Notes: Always run some tests during the install to check everything work fine.

 

Step 7- Install the soundboard.

Notes: Regarding Prizm, as usual, the yellow capacitor is an issue as there isn’t enough space for it to fit properly. To work around this, we’ve un-soldered the capacitor, added wires to it and located it in an area where it would no be an issue (check the second picture below, the capacitor is in the bottom left corner or the soundboard slot).

 

Step 8- When adding the soundboard to the chassis, make sure the speaker and accent leds wires pass through fine in the dedicated hole, so that you can continue the wiring.

 

Step 9- Insert the chassis into the hilt and finish the wiring of the switches and main led. Make sure the wires go through the dedicated channel, and pull the switches and Led wires out from the back while inserting the chassis (to minimize the space needed after the led module and to align with the sound holes properly.

 

Step 10- The chassis has a hole that lines up with the Covertec screw (the screw will secure the chassis).

Add the covertec screw to lock the chassis/black tube/shroud assembly, then add the big thumb screw assembly. Then

Test again, and make sure everything is working fine before going to the next step.

 

Step 11- Finish the hilt by gluing the little aesthetic parts.

 

All done!! Congrats and enjoy 😉

 

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