Shapeways Shop Section ⇒ C2 – NerfworXlab
Prices: From approx $125 (depending on materials used – typical setup in metal = $215).
Install Level: Advanced
⇒ Part 1 – Main Chassis: nwl-ezra-master-part1-lightsaber-chassis
⇒ Part 2 – Crystal Chamber: nwl-ezra-master-part2-lightsaber-chassis
⇒ Part 3 – Shell1: nwl-ezra-master-part3-lightsaber-chassis
⇒ Part 4 – Shell2; nwl-ezra-master-part4-lightsaber-chassis
⇒ Part 5 – Optional Crystal: nwl-ezra-master-part5-lightsaber-chassis
Prices: Approx $70
Install level: Intermediate
⇒ All.In.One nwl-ezra-padawan-lightsaber-chassis
⇒ Contact Solo’s Hold
Most of the chassis parts needed for our chassis are available at The Saber Armory.
Local hobby stores or online store (as well as eBay) are a good source for parts.
You can also be inventive and add any custom parts, wire mesh, paint job or else to your chassis to give it an unique look!
Here is a list of parts needed to install the Master chassis:
⇒ 1.5mmOD rods x3
⇒ 3mmOD tubes x2
4- Electronic components and blades:
Saber electronic components are basically more or less similar from one saber to another. You’ll need a main Led, a Battery, a recharge port, one or two switches, a soundboard, accent leds, a speaker and wires. Then the blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip.
You can find most of what you’ll need at The Saber Armory. Some components can also be found at The Saber Bay on Etsy. Local electronic shops or online stores like Digikey are also a good source.
⇒ Soundboard, the “heart” of our sabers is the Soundboard, here are the 2 major Soundboard producers:
Plecter Labs – from the entry level Nano Biscotte to the high end Crystal Focus.
Naigon Elelctronic Creations – from the entry level Spark to the high end I3.
⇒ Battery, 18650 battery for 3.7v or 2×18350 for 7.4v.
⇒ Recharge Port, 2.1mm recharge port
⇒ On/off Slider switch, high amp (example: The Saber Armory)
⇒ Battery charger, according to the battery voltage used.
⇒ Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2 (Neopixel setup also possible)
⇒ Switches, brass tactile switches – 1.5mm height (Example: The Saber Armory)
⇒ Speaker, 24mm Speaker.
⇒ Accent Leds, 5mm led for the Crystal Chamber recommended (if RGB, read your soundboard manual to select between common anode or common cathode led), 3mm leds for the others.
⇒ Wires, we strongly recommend PTFE wires, as the insulation is thin while still able to handle current very well. You can find them from this eBay shop for example. Use the smallest AWG size possible:
– Tri-Cree install => 30awg for eveything
– Neopixel install => 32 awg wires for everything except Battery and Neopixel strip + and – (24awg PTFE).
⇒ Heat shrink tubing, to protect your joints.
⇒ RICE port – a RICE port can be added with a micro jst port. Ex on ebay.
⇒ 7/8″ OD or 3/4″ OD Blades.
– These instructions will details the install procedure as much as possible. GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers.
– Always wear protective gear when working on install (gloves, eye protection, …), GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible in case of accident.
Note 1: The picture below are taken from a prototype chassis. Some small design changes occurred in the final version.
Note 2: We do not cover wiring instructions, please read your soundboard manual before starting the install.
Note 3: 30awg wires and smaller are mandatory for this install (30awg for main wires and 32awg for accent leds and switches are mandatory).
Note 4: Thanks to read the full instructions before starting your install. Commission an installer to build the hilt for you, if you feel unsure about what to do.
Note 5: Always test your install along the way and make sure everything works. It takes time, but better safe than sorry later when it is more difficult to come back.
Note 6: Recharge port wiring reminder:
The hilt comes with 2 plungers, one plain and one with pins.
Glue the pins, and optionally polish the plain plunger, then add the plain on the left and the pins plunger on the right of the hilt emitter part as shown below (make sure they slide in easily).
Add enough length of wires for the main led and switches wires, to be passed through the dedicated channel over the battery holder.
Then make the switch wires exist on each side of the chassis as shown below.
The switches have to be glued on the chassis, they rest half on the chassis, half on the battery (glue only on the chassis).
Insert the battery to place the switch properly, glue them and pull the wires in.
It is then mandatory to insert the chassis into the upper hilt part to test the switches work fine. The red lever screw is used to lock the chassis in.
Cut the 1.5mmOD rods and 3mmOD Tube to the right length.
If the cover are printed in steel, some sanding and hole cleaning might be required. Then install the 2 tubes and the bottom cover as shown below.
Attach the Crystal Chamber part to the upper chassis.
Note that the wires must go through the two 3mm Tubes, so it is mandatory to distribute them evenly and ensure they will slide in without blocking (don’t forget the speaker wires and do not twist the wires to save space).
To limit the number of wires going through the tubes, the crystal chamber LED wires are wired in parallel of the main led under the speaker.
(If there isn’t enough space, the chassis parts can be modded for a bigger wire hole and wire sleeves could be used instead of tubes).
The Crystal Chamber par can be glued to the upper chassis for extra security. A 1.5mmOD rod can also be optionally added sideways to lock both part together.
Once attached together, make room for the speaker / secure the wires.
Pass the wires through the tube up to the back of the soundboard chassis module.
It will be easier here to wires the soundboard with another set of wires and connect everything later from the back of the chassis (read the following step to understand why).
Eventually add the cover over the soundboard area.
Gently / slowly pull the front chassis wires from the back to slide and join the chassis together (glue the rods and tubes with tiny bit of super glue, not too much, just enough to secure the assembly).
Sand the led and optic surroundings to fit properly into the heatsink. Make sure everything is tested ok.
then epoxy the heatsink in the emitter, using the blade part to guide the heatsink in. Make sure not to use to much glue and not put glue where the blade part inserts.
Epoxy the blade part to the blade (there is little space for that, make sure to measure the depth properly).