Index:

=> Parts Details
=> Demo
=> Installation Instructions


Parts Details: 

1- 3D printed Chassis parts:

Shapeways Shop Section ⇒ C2 – NerfworXlab

Master Chassis:

Multi-parts chassis assembly with metal elements. Full core reveal => the chassis can be taken out entirely.
Crystal Chamber with metal shells and inserts for an awesome reveal.

Prices: From approx $150 (depending on materials used – typical setup in metal = $255).
Install Level: Advanced
Part 1 – Main chassis: nwl-kanan-master-part1
Part 2 – Power gate: nwl-kanan-master-part2
Part 3 – CC inserts 1: nwl-kanan-master-part3
Part 4 – CC inserts 2: nwl-kanan-master-part4
 Part 5 – CC Shell: nwl-kanan-master-part5

Part 6 – Power Cell Cover: nwl-kanan-master-part6
Part 7 – Optional – Crsytal: nwl-kanan-master-part7
Part 8 – Optional – Soundboard cover
– NB: nwl-kanan-master-part8-NB
– PZ: nwl-kanan-master-part8-PZ
– CF: nwl-kanan-master-part8-CF

Padawan Chassis:

All-in-1 chassis for simple and budget install, without crystal chamber. Full core reveal => the chassis can be taken out entirely.

Prices: Approx $70
Install level: Intermediate
 All.In.One nwl-kanan-padawan-chassis

2- Kanan Hilt:

 Contact Solo’s Hold

3- Additional chassis parts:

Most of the chassis parts needed for our chassis are available at The Saber Armory.
Local hobby stores or online store (as well as eBay) are a good source for parts.
You can also be inventive and add any custom parts, wire mesh, paint job or else to your chassis to give it an unique look!
Here is a list of parts needed to install the Master chassis:
⇒ 1.5mmOD rods x2
3mmOD tubes x2
 Optional: 1mmOD and 0.5mmOD rods (cosmetic into the crystal chamber)

4- Electronic components and blades:

Saber electronic components are basically more or less similar from one saber to another. You’ll need a main Led, a Battery, a recharge port, one or two switches, a soundboard, accent leds, a speaker and wires. Then the blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip.
Again, you can find most of what you’ll need at The Saber Armory. Local electronic shops or online stores like Digikey are also a good source.

Soundboard, the “heart” of our sabers is the Soundboard, here are the 2 major Soundboard producers:
Plecter Labs – from the entry level Nano Biscotte to the high end Crystal Focus.
Naigon Elelctronic Creations – from the entry level Spark to the high end I3.
Battery,
Padawan: Up to 2×18650 stick battery pack (in parallel for 3.7v or in series for 7.4v).
Master: 18650 battery for 3.7v or 2×16340 for 7.4v.
⇒ Recharge Port, 1.3mm high amp (example: The Saber Armory)
⇒ On/off Slider switch, high amp (example: The Saber Armory)
 Battery charger, according to the battery voltage used.
 Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2 (Neopixel setup also possible)
 Switches, brass tactile switches with 2.5mm height (Example: The Saber Armory)
 Speaker, 28mm Speaker flat or bass
 Accent Leds, 5mm led for the Crystal Chamber recommended (if RGB, read your soundboard manual to select between common anode or common cathode led), 3mm leds for the others.
 Wires, 30awg wires are recommended on most our 3D Printed chassis. We are buying them from this eBay seller.
 Heat shrink tubing, to protect your joints.
 RICE port – a RICE port can be added with a micro jst port. Ex on ebay.
 7/8″ OD or 3/4″ OD Blades.


DEMO

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DIY INSTRUCTIONS:

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MULTIBOARDS ADAPTIVE CHASSIS 

Install the soundboard with the SD card on the bottom, facing the pommel.
Follow this pattern to install the soundboard of your choice:

 

Note 1Please read these instructions fully before starting. This complete removable core is a complex install requiring a good level. There is no margin of error possible on the switches, led module and speaker install. The master chassis is an even more complex assembly, so make sure to understand everything before proceeding.

Note 2: We do not cover wiring instructions, please read your soundboard manual before starting the install.

Note 3:  30awg wires and smaller are mandatory for this install (30awg for main wires and 32awg  for accent leds and switches are mandatory).

Note 4:  These instructions will details the install as much as possible. GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers tho. If you’re unsure of what to do after reading this page, commission an installer to build the hilt for you.

Note 5:  Always test your install along the way and make sure everything works. It takes time, but better safe than sorry later when it is more difficult to come back.

Note 6Recharge port wiring reminder:


 

Step1: Mods needed for the chassis to work

The led module part that comes with the hilt and and control box screw require some adjustments.
The chassis uses the control box screw as guide and lock (check the demo video).
1) A channel has to be filed into the led module
2) The control box retention screw length has to be filed as well

Mark where to add the channel on the led module and use a Dremel or hand file to do it

Adjust the length of the control box 6-32 screw, the chassis and led module assembly must be able to slide in and be guided using the dedicated channel.

The chassis / led module assembly can lock in place with a clockwise twist. If this is not happening easily, the top of the chassis might require a little bit of sanding (can happen due to the printing slight variations). The alignment of the speaker notch should be perfectly parallel as on the picture below.

Step2: Led install

Sanding the Tri-Cree led and optic is required to fit properly

The optic sits just a bit out of the led module, so it must enter the top portion of the hilt properly.

Step3: Prepare the hilt and control box

Paint the cover, emitter and grips

and install the cover, grips, control box and pins

Next, install the arrows parts into the control box. In order to make it easier, making the holes larger will be required to insert and glue the arrows parts.

It is required as well to add spring for the switches plungers (we used a spring from a pen). Cut the springs to the right length to allow them to stay up and be pressed down when the control box cover is back on. These plungers are low profile, so make sure the spring assembly works fine. Finally add the box cover card (press fit, glue should not be necessary).

Padawan Chassis 

Step3: Components install

Install the on/off switch first and then the recharge port in their dedicated slot on the chassis.


Install (glue) the 3mm accent leds from inside the chassis. Make sure to run some tests along the way.

Install the 2.5mm height brass switch form outside the chassis.
It is important the the switch sits flush into its dedicated slot, in order for them to work fine with the control box plunger.

Channel all the wires and then insert the battery

Connect the battery to the recharge port

Wire the soundboard

Step4: Speaker install

Make sure that the speaker sits flush in the chassis dedicated slot before proceeding with gluing the parts together.
The speaker and additional part are used to twist – lock/unlock the chassis core into the hilt. Having this step properly done and secure is thus essential.

Glue (epoxy) the lever part to the speaker /  Glue (epoxy) the speaker to the chassis.

/!\ Important: the speaker lever shall only be used for the twist / chassis lock, and not to pull out the chassis (give it a punch for that like on the demo video). This will avoid putting to much stress on this lever.

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Master Chassis 

Step3: Prepare the rods and tubes

The chassis can take on its side one long 1.5mmOD rod and one 3mmOD tube, and same on top but shorter length. They all enter from teh front of the chassis. There is also one 1mmOD rod on the other side (switch side) of teh chassis, which enters from the back (it will be most probably required to clean these holes of print dust to enter the rod properly. Continue reading further to see where it goes.
It is important to note that the side 3mmOD tube needs to be opened under the soundboard area so that wires can exist from it.

Step4: Crsytal Chamber install

On Part 5 (Shell),  Rods can be added as shown below (1mmOD rods and 2mm OD tubes have been used here, but any customization is possible for a more unique look).
If printed in steel part might require to bore / clean the holes with Dremel or driller, to ensure all the rods insert i n it without too much force.

The Part 3 – Crystal Chamber inserts is an assembly of 3 parts that need to be separated / cut.
The glue the frosted plastic Part 4 into the following piece, and then 3 rods can be added to it (1mmOD rods, again with any customization possible)

Add the crystal to the other insert peice, and add the 5mm accent leds on both inserts.

Add the frosted plastic tube into the Part 2 (using a bit of super glue at the base to secure it).
Then, glue the Crystal insert part to the shell (we use epoxy here). While not mandatory, the power gate Part2 can also be glued to the shell using the rod and tube as guide (make sure the alignment is correct to prevent further issue when sliding the chassis in the hilt).
The crystal chamber led wires will pass through the power gate tube.

Step5: Chassis preparation

Cut the MultiBoards Adaptive chassis area according to the soundboard used, here we used a Prizm5.1.
Note that some covers are part of each soundboard section.

We also added mesh in some parts of the chassis

Step6: Rear components install

The following order should be respected.
First start with the recharge port, then on/off switch. Have some patience in inserting the Recharge Port in its slot, as there is very little room. The recharge port must have the lead on top.

Once the recharge port glued in place, take the soundboard wire and make it exist through the switch hole. Then wire and insert the switch.

Next, pass the speaker wires and the soundboard power supply wires through the side holes.

Wire and add the battery in its slot.

Step7: Front components install

Add the wires for the 2.5mm height brass switches and solder the two control box 3mm accent led (they need to be sanded down).
Note on the picture bottom left corner below the wire channel in the power gate to pass the wires through

Pass the switches wires through the little channel as shown below, and solder the switches

Glue the switches in there slot, making sure they sit perfectly flat and centered.
/!\ this is very important to get right, failing to do so will result in a non functional control box.

Glue the two accent leds in their slots. Then pass the wires to exist on the soundboard area.
Pull the switches and accent led wires while assembling the Crystal Chamber with the chassis, in order to make sure to use as less space as possible behind the switches and control box accent led area => the shell and power gate must sit flush in the chassis (otherwise it will create troubles to slide the chassis in). Once flush, add the short 1.5mmOD rod and 3mmOD tube to secure the assembly as shown below. Test your assembly in the hilt to make sure it insert fine (again, the steel part might require sanding in some cases due to the printed accuracy).

Adding the side 3mmOD tube will require some patience, as the speaker and power wires will need to be inserted in it while sliding the tube in the chassis.
Small tweezers are mandatory here, in order to pull the wires out from the tube once inserted.

Add the 3rd Crystal Chamber insert from Part 3 and the long 1.5mmOD rod.
That part can be glued or left with the possibility of sliding back and forth to simulate an adjustment lever. Some thin rods (.9mmOD max) can be also added on it.

Add the 1mmOD rod from teh back of the chassis as shown below, it will insert into the power gate as well.

Add the remaining CC insert and accent led, by passing its wires in the same long 3mmOD tube, then glue it to the shell.

Step8: Soundboard install

Cut the wires to the minimum length required to install the soundboard in order to limit the space they will take under it.

Always test everything along the way

Pass the main led wires through the top short 3mmOD tube, and solder them to the board.
Once ready and test, glue the board in its chassis slot to keep it tight and secured.

A soundboard cover can optionally be added, a bit of super glue is used to glue the cover on the soundboard black processor and on the chassis on the SD side.

The led module can now be glued to the chassis (epoxy or anything super strong must be used).
Make sure to perfectly align the channel on the heatsink with the one on the chassis and to clean any excess of glue coming out.
Do not rush this! Apply pressure long enough to make sure the heatsink stay flush (as the wires could push a bit the heatsink out), any misalignment will result in failing to insert the chassis in the hilt. Also do not try the chassis in the hilt before the glue is properly dry, in order to avoid any break and irreversible damages.

Step9: Speaker install

Make sure that the speaker sits flush in the chassis dedicated slot before proceeding with gluing the parts together.
The speaker and additional part are used to twist – lock/unlock the chassis core into the hilt. Having this step properly done and secure is thus essential.

Wire the speaker, then in the preferred order, glue the speaker to the chassis and the lever part to the speaker (Epoxy or anything super strong mandatory).
Make sure to get the alignement perfect, to not put glue on the speaker itself, and to clean any excess of glue around the assembly.

/!\ Important: the speaker lever shall only be used for the twist / chassis lock, and not to pull out the chassis (give it a punch for that like on the demo video). This will avoid putting to much stress on this lever, even if the glue used is strong enough.

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