Parts Details:

1- 3D printed Chassis parts:

Shapeways Shop Section ⇒ C7 – Korbanth

Three chassis are available for the Korbanth LS6 saber Kit:
Padawan for a basic install and mainly focused on securing all your electronics.
Master for a detailed chassis with crystal chamber parts that can be printed in metal.
2 variants are proposed according the the saber version Hero or V2 (gullwing reaveal or grenade section reveal).

Master Chassis:

Variant 1 – Gullwing reveal

Prices: From approx $76
(additional cost depending on material used for the Crystal Chamber part – typical setup at $130)
Install Level: Advanced
 Part 1 – Main Chassis : korbanth-parks-ls6-master-var1-part1
 Part 2 – Crystal Chamber 1: korbanth-parks-ls6-master-var1-part2
 Part 3 – Crystal Chamber 2: korbanth-parks-ls6-master-var1-part3
 Part 4 – Optional Crystal : korbanth-parks-ls6-master-var1-part4

Variant 2 – Grenade reveal

Prices: From approx $89
(additional cost depending on material used for the Crystal Chamber part – typical setup at $150)
Install Level: Advanced
 Part 1 – Main Chassis : korbanth-parks-ls6-master-var2-part1
 Part 2 – Crystal Chamber 1: korbanth-parks-ls6-master-var2-part2
 Part 3 – Crystal Chamber 2: korbanth-parks-ls6-master-var2-part3
 Part 4 – Crystal Chamber 3: korbanth-parks-ls6-master-var2-part4
 Part 5 – Optional Crystal : korbanth-parks-ls6-master-var2-part5

Padawan Chassis:


Prices:
 Approx $47
Install Level: Beginner
 All.In.One – Main Chassis : korbanth-parks-ls6-padawan-lightsaber-chassis

2- Additional chassis parts:

Most of the chassis parts needed for our chassis are available at The Saber Armory.
Local hobby stores or online store (as well as eBay) are a good source for parts.
You can also be inventive and add any custom parts, wire mesh, paint job or else to your chassis to give it an unique look!
The Master Chassis requires the following parts:
 Brass or copper rods – 1.5mm max OD.

3- DIY empty hilts:”

 Available on Korbanth website

4– Electronic components and blades:
Saber electronic components are basically more or less similar from one saber to another. You’ll need a main Led, a Battery, a recharge port, one or two switches, a soundboard, accent leds, a speaker and wires. Then the blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip.
Again, you can find most of what you’ll need at The Saber Armory. Local electronic shops or online stores like Digikey are also a good source.
Soundboard, the “heart” of our sabers is the Soundboard, here are the 2 major Soundboard producers:
Plecter Labs – from the entry level Nano Biscotte or Prizm 5.1 (recommended). The Padawan (only) can also hold a CF9.
Naigon Elelctronic Creations – from the entry level Spark to the high end I3 (with TruDrive board detached).
Battery, 18650 battery 
⇒ Recharge Port,
Master: 1.3mm High Amp recharge port.
Padawan: 2.1mm port (kill key included).
 Battery charger, according to the battery voltage used.
 Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2 recommended
 Switches are probided with the hilt.
 On / Off Switch (Master only) – slider switch (example).
 Speaker, 20mm Speaker (Master / Padawan) or 24mm Speaker (Master – requires modifications on the hilt).
 Accent Leds, 5mm led for the Crystal Chamber recommended on the master chassis (if RGB, read your soundboard manual to select between common anode or common cathode led), 3mm leds for the others.
 Wires, 30awg wires are mandatory on most our 3D Printed chassis. We are buying them from this eBay seller.
 Heat shrink tubing, to protect your joints.
 RICE port 
– a RICE port can be added with a micro jst port. Ex on ebay.
 Heat sink – a specific heatsink is requiered
 7/8″ OD Blades.

 


 

Quick Install Guide:

Note 1: 30awg wires and smaller are mandatory for this install (30awg for main wires and 32awg  for accent leds and switches are highly recommended)…. Oh and definitely use colored wires to make your life easier.

Note 2: These instructions will not cover how to wire the soundboard, make sure to learn how to by reading the manual.

Note 3: GOTH-3Designs cannot be  held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers tho. Thanks!

Note 4: Recharge port wiring reminder:


The chassis can accept either a 24mm bass speaker or 20mm bass speaker. In case a 24mm is to be installed, the inner tube will require modification (Dremel cut and sanding) in order to allow more space for the speaker to sit.

The 20mm speaker doesn’t require modification to the inner hilt and sits flush.

The soundboard cover comes attached to the chassis and needs to be cut. It will then be held by 1.5mmOD rods.

The hilt inner tube will require modification (cut a window) in order to allow SD card access.

1.5mmOD rods are used to hold the crystal chamber part, and run all the way to the battery slot.
An additional short rod can also be added to the CC part2.

The 1.3mm Recharge port and Kill switch are installed as shown below. They are accessible through the opening in the inner tube bottom.

If the control box (Hero style) is used, modifications to the delivered box PCB are recommended to install the green and red arrow led. Remove all components from the PCB except switches and drill holes for 3mm access leds.
If the clamp is used (V2 / V3 style), a Graflex clamp switch holder can be used.

If the Master Variant 2 Grenade Reveal chassis is used, there are various options for this kind of thin neck saber reveal:
– Use a connector (like Neopixel pogo pins connector).
– Without connector, make sure you strictly use the length required (calculate the length when hilt is in reveal mode, then install your led with the hilt closed).
Then, cut the inner 7/8″ID tube shorter of 5mm to 10mm approx to allow clearance and avoid wires to get pinched.

Loading...
Facebook Messenger for Wordpress