Shapeways Shop Section ⇒ C7 – Korbanth
Several chassis are available for the Korbanth Crossguard 2.0 saber Kit:
– Padawan for a basic install and mainly focused on securing all your electronics.
2 variants are proposed for removable or static battery, and 2 styles each for 28mm flat speaker or bass speaker.
– Master with crystal chamber parts that can be printed in metal. 2 styles available for 28mm flat speaker or bass speaker.
Prices: From approx $130 – available soon
(additional cost depending on material used for the Crystal Chamber part – typical setup at $240)
Install Level: Advanced
⇒ Part 1 – Main Chassis
Style1 (28mm flat speaker) => korbanth-crossguard-2-0-master-part1-style1
Style2 (28mm bass speaker) => korbanth-crossguard-2-0-master-part1-style2
⇒ Part 2 – CC insert 1 => korbanth-crossguard-2-0-master-part2
⇒ Part 3 – CC insert 2 => korbanth-crossguard-2-0-master-part3
⇒ Part 4 – CC insert 3 => korbanth-crossguard-2-0-master-part4
⇒ Part 5 – CC insert 4 => korbanth-crossguard-2-0-master-part5
⇒ Part 6 – CC insert 5 => korbanth-crossguard-2-0-master-part6
⇒ Part 7 – Optional Crystal => korbanth-crossguard-2-0-master-part7
Prices: Approx $55
Install Level: Beginner
⇒ Variant1 Style1 – Removable Battery / 28mm flat speaker => korbanth-crossguard-2-0-padawan-var1-style1
⇒ Variant1 Style2 – Removable Battery / 28mm bass speaker => korbanth-crossguard-2-0-padawan-var1-style2
⇒ Variant2 Style1 – Static Battery / 28mm flat speaker => korbanth-crossguard-2-0-padawan-var2-style1
⇒ Variant2 Style2 – Static Battery / 28mm bass speaker => korbanth-crossguard-2-0-padawan-var2-style2
The plastic parts provided with the hilt can be replaced by the following accessories (available in metal)
⇒ Pommer insert – Optional pommel insert replacement: korbanth-crossguard-2-0-pommel-insert
⇒ Emitter inserts – Optional emitter inserts replacement:
Style1 (Dremel Required, parts joined together to reduce cost in metal) – korbanth-crossguard-2-0-emitter-inserts-style1
Style2 (Install Ready, available in Steel only) – korbanth-crossguard-2-0-emitter-inserts-style2
3- Additional chassis parts:
Most of the chassis parts needed for our chassis are available at The Saber Armory.
Local hobby stores or online store (as well as eBay) are a good source for parts.
You can also be inventive and add any custom parts, wire mesh, paint job or else to your chassis to give it an unique look!
The Master Chassis requires the following parts:
⇒ 1.5mmOD rods for the CC assembly
⇒ 1mmOD rods for the CC Insert 2 (Optional)
⇒ 2mmOD rod + two 1mmx2mmOD magnets for the Aux switch assembly (Optional)
4- DIY empty hilts:
⇒ Available on Korbanth website
5– Electronic components and blades:
Saber electronic components are basically more or less similar from one saber to another. You’ll need a main Led, a Battery, a recharge port, one or two switches, a soundboard, accent leds, a speaker and wires. Then the blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip.
Again, you can find most of what you’ll need at The Saber Armory. Local electronic shops or online stores like Digikey are also a good source.
⇒ Soundboard, the “heart” of our sabers is the Soundboard, here are the 2 major Soundboard producers:
Plecter Labs – from the entry level Nano Biscotte to CF9 (/!\ CF9 is not compatible with Master Style2 and Padawan Var1 Style2)
Naigon Elelctronic Creations – from the entry level Spark to the high end I3 (with TruDrive board detached).
An adapter can also be added to install a Teensy Saber V3 into the Prizm 5.1 slot => available here.
⇒ Battery, 18650 battery, either removable (with Keystone holder) or pre-wired according to the Padawan Variant used, pre-wired only for the master chassis.
⇒ Recharge Port, 1.3mm High Amp recharge port.
⇒ Battery charger, according to the battery voltage used.
⇒ Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2 or Neopixel
⇒ Switches, main switch is provided with the hilt.
A tactile switch can be added as Aux – see instructions (example).
⇒ On / Off Switch (padawan Var2 and Master) – slider switch (example).
⇒ Speaker, 28mm speaker
⇒ Accent Leds, 5mm led for the Crystal Chamber recommended on the master chassis (if RGB, read your soundboard manual to select between common anode or common cathode led), 3mm leds for the others.
⇒ Wires, 30awg wires are mandatory on most our 3D Printed chassis. We are buying them from this eBay seller.
⇒ Heat shrink tubing, to protect your joints.
⇒ RICE port – a floating RICE port can be added with a micro jst port. Ex on ebay.
⇒ Heat sink – a specific heatsink is requiered
⇒ 1″ OD main Blades (crossguard blades are provided with the hilt)
Note 1: 30awg wires and smaller are mandatory for most of our chassis (if neopixel, 32awg is mandatory for switches, accent leds, … to compensate bigger main blade and battery wires).
Note 2: These instructions will not cover how to wire the soundboard, make sure to learn how to by reading the manual.
Note 3: GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers tho. Thanks!
(CF9 isn’t compatible with Master Chassis Part1 Style2 and Padawan chassis Var1 Style2)
2) There are various possibilities to make the quillons led and main switch install easier. Here is an exemple of mods to the upper shroud and inner tube to ease wires management when inserting the chassis (mandatory when using a Master Chassis).
First, we remove a few mm under the emitter so that the quillon led wires can be joined in the middle instead of being separated on each side.
Add a windows in the inner tubes for the wires to pass through, and the same on the shroud.
Finally, add a channel in the shroud, right of the main switch area, to make wire passage easier (as shown below, the right hole is to be used for the main switch wires – mandatory on the master chassis as the battery slot will block the main switch window).
4) All our chassis are compatible with the following Aux switch assembly.
A 2.3mm ID hole will need to be added to the inner tube, located under the bottom red piece slot. Insert the shroud, mark where the hole is located and drill.
Once the hole drilled, temporarily insert the full chassis in order to mark the exact position where the tactile switch needs to be glued (the red button needs to match the hole).
Glue a 1mm tall x 2mmOD magnet on top of the red button of the tactile switch.
Glue the other magnet on a 2mmOD rod, making sure to respect the polarity with the one on the switch.
Drill the red piece as shown below (approx 3mm deep) and cut the rod accordingly.
Assemble the rod with the red piece, then test.
5) The side screws holding the red wire holders and cover plate are not to be used with our chassis. They are just complicating things while not bringing much value added to the build. We recommend instead to first glue the cover plate (epoxy or else) and then glue the red wire holders, as they are not meant to be removed from the hilt anyway.
Install the main leds or neopixel connector first, with enough wires length to exist from the pommel and be able to solder them to the soundboard.
The Padawan chassis are pretty straightforward to install, here are a few particularities to take into account:
– Padawan Var1 – The Keystone holder will need sanding on one side in order to allow SD card access (~3mm need to be removed). Sanding the Negative side battery side is recommended
Part3 – CC insert 2 contains 2 parts that needs to be separated
When part are printed in steel, some sanding would be required to make parts fit properly. First insert the two 1.5mmOD rods and then add Part2 – CC insert 1.
Install the 1.3mm Recharge Port and kill switch in their dedicated slots.
Glue the speaker and install the soundboard with proper wiring planning.
Add the CC Insert 2 to the assembly, and install (glue) the light tube with accent led into it.
Then add the crystal with accent led.
Again, with steel, sanding the hole ID can be required in order to press fit or glue Part6 with the 2nd CC Insert 3 part, as shown below
Finish the CC assembly, adjust the rod length and add the battery module.
The CC assembly looks as shown below with all wires passing under it.