– Return to Luke Hero Chassis Line-Up –

Parts Details:

1- ROTJ Luke Hero Hilt:

 Contact KR-Sabers

2- 3D printed Chassis parts:

All.In.One chassis Variant 1 (Plastic – Recommended Black): kr-luke-hero-padawan-chassis-var1-all-in-one
For 18650 battery, and 28mm speaker (Premium or Bass), with MultiBoards Adaptive chassis.

All.In.One chassis Variant 2 (Plastic – Recommended Black): kr-luke-hero-padawan-chassis-var2-all-in-one
Only for 28mm premium speaker (flat), but allows longer battery like a 2 x 18350 pack (for 7.4v), with M.A.C.

You can also be inventive and add any custom parts, paint job or else to your chassis to give it an unique look!

3- Electronic components:

Saber electronic components are basically more or less similar from one saber to another. You’ll need a main Led, a Battery, a recharge port, one or two switches, a soundboard, accent leds, a speaker and wires.

Soundboard, the “heart” of our sabers is the Soundboard, here are the 2 major Soundboard producers:
Plecter Labs (also sold at TCSS) – from the entry level Nano Biscotte to the high end Crystal Focus.
Naigon Elelctronic Creations – from the entry level Spark 2 to the high end I2.
– Video explanation coming soon –

Battery, 18650 recommended for this chassis – from Solo’s Hold.
⇒ Recharge Port, 2.1mm port is used on this chassis, Ex USA: TCSS, Solo’s Hold ; Ex EU: KR- Sabers
 Battery charger, Ex USA: TCSS ; Ex EU: KR- Sabers
 Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2 recommended – Ex USA: TCSS, NEC, SaberBay ; Ex EU: KR- Sabers, Elegant Weapons
 Switches are included with the hilt.
 Speaker, 28mm Speaker, either premium (Ex USA: TCSS, Solo’s Hold ; Ex EU: KR-Sabers) or bass (TCSS, KR-Sabers, JQ-Sabers)
 Accent Leds, 5mm led for the Crystal Chamber recommended (if RGB, read your soundboard manual to select between common anode or common cathode led), 3mm leds for the others. They can be found in any electronic shops (ex: Mouser).
 Wires, 30awg wires are recommended on most our 3D Printed chassis. We are buying them from this eBay seller.
 RICE port 
– a RICE port can be added with a floating micro jst port. Ex on ebay.

4- Blade:

The blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip. Complete blades can be found from various locations.
1″ OD blades: Ex USA: TCSS, Ex EU: JQ-Sabers
You can also make your own using TCSS blade supplies.

 


 

MutliBoards Adaptive Chassis, a chassis part to hold them all.

Click on the picture below to see how to adapt it.

 


DIY Instructions:

Note 1: This Knight chassis is very similar to the Master version (except for the Crystal Chamber assembly). Please follow the Master chassis DIY instructions to learn how to install it (and just skip the Crystal Chamber and front section assembly steps).

 MASTER Chassis DIY Instructions

Note 2: 30awg wires and smaller are mandatory for this install (30awg for main wires and 32awg  for accent leds and switches are highly recommended).

Note 3Designer notes:

These chassis are designed to be as easy to install as it can get. The overall level is intermediate (regardless of the chassis version: Padawan, Knight or Master), mainly because of the control box wiring, that needs to be carefully done.

It’s pretty cramfu in that control box, as you need to wire 1 to 2 switches and 2 accent leds. Then the chassis is done to be able to slide out from the rear partially in order to access the SD and Recharge port / kill key, so the control box wires have to be installed properly to allow that as shown in below instructions.

Another point, there is no particular connection system between the chassis and the led module (in the emitter), again to make things easy for DIYers. By using 30awg wires, there is no issue in unscrewing the grenade section and reveal the crystal chamber.

Still in objective to keep things simple to build, there is no CEx chassis planned for this saber. We favor here 3.7v setups, even for Petit Crouton or Crystal Focus (hacked). There was also no room for a jack Rice port, but if user wanted a Rice connection, a rice micro JST port could be added above the soundboard.

Note 4: About the Kill Key. It is recommended to sand a bit the side of the kill key “on/off” slot, in order to make them more round and to turn better in the recharge port. (as a reminder, this slot allow to start / stop the saber without removing the kill key).

Note 5: Recharge port wiring reminder:

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