⇒ Contact KR-Sabers
⇒ Part 1 Variant 1 (Plastic – Recommended Black): kr-luke-hero-master-chassis-part1-var1-main
For 18650 battery, and 28mm speaker (Premium or Bass), with MultiBoards Adaptive chassis.
⇒ Part 1 Variant 2 (Plastic – Recommended Black): kr-luke-hero-master-chassis-part1-var2-main
Only for 28mm premium speaker (flat), but allows longer battery like a 2 x 18340 pack (for 7.4v), with M.A.C.
⇒ Part 2 (Plastic or Metal – Recommended Polished Bronze Steel): kr-luke-hero-master-chassis-part2-cc-shell
⇒ Part 3 (Plastic or Metal – Recommended Raw Brass or Bronze): kr-luke-hero-master-chassis-part3-cc-insert
⇒ Part 4 (Plastic – Recommended Black): kr-luke-hero-master-chassis-part4-upper-part
Chassis parts can be found in local hardware stores as well as on the web. eBay models shop is also a good source internationally to find small parts, check eBay model shops for instance: OmniModels, Cave Spring Hobby, ……..
You can also be inventive and add any custom parts, paint job or else to your chassis to give it an unique look!
Here is a list of parts needed to install the above chassis:
⇒ 4-40 threaded rods x 2 – Ex USA: TCSS, Ex EU: RobotShop FR, RobotShop UK
⇒ Hex nuts for 4-40 rods x 4 – Ex USA: TCSS
⇒ Brass or copper rods – 1.5mm max OD – Ex: OmniModels
⇒ Crystal – real quartz or get 3D printed double crystals: Crystal 1 and Crystal 2
4- Electronic components:
Saber electronic components are basically more or less similar from one saber to another. You’ll need a main Led, a Battery, a recharge port, one or two switches, a soundboard, accent leds, a speaker and wires.
⇒ Soundboard, the “heart” of our sabers is the Soundboard, here are the 2 major Soundboard producers:
Plecter Labs (also sold at TCSS) – from the entry level Nano Biscotte to the high end Crystal Focus.
Naigon Elelctronic Creations – from the entry level Spark 2 to the high end I2.
– Video explanation coming soon –
⇒ Battery, 18650 recommended for this chassis – from Solo’s Hold.
⇒ Recharge Port, 2.1mm port is used on this chassis, Ex USA: TCSS, Solo’s Hold ; Ex EU: KR- Sabers
⇒ Battery charger, Ex USA: TCSS ; Ex EU: KR- Sabers
⇒ Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2 recommended – Ex USA: TCSS, NEC, SaberBay ; Ex EU: KR- Sabers, Elegant Weapons
⇒ Switches are included with the hilt.
⇒ Speaker, 28mm Speaker, either premium (Ex USA: TCSS, Solo’s Hold ; Ex EU: KR-Sabers) or bass (TCSS, KR-Sabers, JQ-Sabers)
⇒ Accent Leds, 5mm led for the Crystal Chamber recommended (if RGB, read your soundboard manual to select between common anode or common cathode led), 3mm leds for the others. They can be found in any electronic shops (ex: Mouser).
⇒ Wires, 30awg wires are recommended on most our 3D Printed chassis. We are buying them from this eBay seller.
⇒ RICE port – a RICE port can be added with a floating micro jst port. Ex on ebay.
The blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip. Complete blades can be found from various locations.
⇒ 1″ OD blades: Ex USA: TCSS, Ex EU: JQ-Sabers
You can also make your own using TCSS blade supplies.
MutliBoards Adaptive Chassis (M.A.C.), a chassis part to hold them all.
Click on the picture below to see how to adapt it.
Note 1: These instruction will cover the Plecter Labs Prizm install, however the MultiBoards Adaptive Chassis car will allow other soundboards to be installed. We do not cover wiring instructions tho, please read your soundboard manual before starting the install.
Note 2: 30awg wires and smaller are mandatory for this install (30awg for main wires and 32awg for accent leds and switches are highly recommended).
Note 3: These instructions will details the install as much as possible. GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers tho. Thanks to read the full instructions before starting your install. Commission an installer to build the hilt for you, if you feel unsure about what to do.
Note 4: The chassis design has been adjusted a bit after testing this first prototype. That why the chassis you’ll receive might slightly differ from the pictures.
Note 5: Designer notes:
These chassis are designed to be as easy to install as it can get. The overall level is intermediate (regardless of the chassis version: Padawan, Knight or Master), mainly because of the control box wiring, that needs to be carefully done.
It’s pretty cramfu in that control box, as you need to wire 1 to 2 switches and 2 accent leds. Then the chassis is done to be able to slide out from the rear partially in order to access the SD and Recharge port / kill key, so the control box wires have to be installed properly to allow that as shown in below instructions.
Another point, there is no particular connection system between the chassis and the led module (in the emitter), again to make things easy for DIYers. By using 30awg wires, there is no issue in unscrewing the grenade section and reveal the crystal chamber.
Still in objective to keep things simple to build, there is no CEx chassis planned for this saber. We favor here 3.7v setups, even for Petit Crouton or Crystal Focus (hacked). There was also no room for a jack Rice port, but if user wanted a Rice connection, a rice micro JST port could be added above the soundboard.
Note 6: About the Kill Key. It is recommended to sand a bit the side of the kill key “on/off” slot, in order to make them more round and to turn better in the recharge port. (as a reminder, this slot allow to start / stop the saber without removing the kill key).
Note 7: Recharge port wiring reminder:
Step1: Adjust the activation box screw length. The 2 screws length needs to be reduced, using a dremel sand drum for example. Do not sand the screw entirely tho, as the will serve to guide the chassis in (leave 1 to 2mm sticking out).
Notes: If the screws you’ve receive with the hilt don’t come out the hole, you just need to replace one of them (the one closest to the pommel) but a longer screw. They are standard and easy to find in any adware stores.
Step2: Sand the activation box wire hole. In order to make it smooth and to not damage the wires when sliding the chassis out, use the sand drum or else to make the hole edge round and smooth.
Step3: Assemble your crystal chamber. If you use the 3D printed crystal, they will fit perfectly into the CC insert.
Notes: one crystal in sticking out of the chamber and this is normal (part of the whole assembly).
Optional: add the 1.5mm OD brass rods.
Super glue is used to secure the rods (a tiny drop on the back of the rod is enough).
Tips: You can further polish the 3D printed steel part if you want for additional contrast. Also, if printed in steel (due to the lower accuracy of the printing process), some light sanding might be required to fit properly.
Next, prepare your 4-40 threaded rods and test the assembly.
Step4: Wire and install the Crystal Chamber accent leds. This chassis uses a dual crystal chamber, and if you use the 3D printed Crystals, a slot for 5mm accent led will allow you to easily add the led into the CC assembly.
Step5: Install the Battery
Step6: Wire and install the recharge port. The recharge port need an additional spacer (included in the kit) to sit properly flush.
Notes: depending on the recharge port you have, sanding the chassis hole and spacer hole might be required. You can use a drill bit and driller for that. You can add another accent led below the recharge port (optional).
Step7: Install the speaker
Step8: MultiBoards Adaptive Chassis. Cut the chassis according to the soundboard you want to use. For example here => Prizm.
Step9: Install the Soundboard
Notes: a tiny drop of super glue on both side of the soundboard is used to secured it with the chassis
Notes: here the wiring is done directly with the Prizm installed in the chassis, this is just how I work and is not the rule (install your board as you feel most comfortable).
Important: plan carefully your activation box wires, and make sure they are all twisted together as on the picture. This part is essential to ensure a proper access to SD card and recharge port.
Step10: Add the chassis to the hilt. Once wiring the soundboard finished, put the activation box wires as shown below:
Then insert the chassis and extract the wires through the activation box hole.
Step11: Add the control box
Notes: the wiring of the accent leds and switches might be a bit complicated, as very intricate space. KR-Sabers has released a PCB board to ease the process since then.
Step12: Test your install
Also test that nothing is preventing to slide the chassis out from the rear (see demo video on the Chassis Line-Up page).
Step13: Assemble the led module. Screw the heatsink into the emitter and wire your main led.
Then stick your led into the heatsink using thermal double sided pad
Notes: Make sure the heatsink is properly screwed / locked in the blade holder. Having the CC reveal with the led in the emitter implies to leave enough wire length to reveal the CC and upper chassis. Unscrewing / screwing the grenade section will twist the wires. This is not a problem if properly installed with enough length. To reduce the wire twist when the saber is closed, and before screwing the first time, make the wire twist in the other direction (by turning the grenade section anti-clockwise a few times).
Step14: Complete your hilt. Add the triangle ring to complete your hilt. Cut a bit the ring in order for it to fit properly.