=> Parts Details
=> Demo
=> Installation Instructions

Parts Details: 

1- 3D printed Chassis parts:

Shapeways Shop Section ⇒ C4 – Phoenix Props

Two chassis levels are available for the Imperial Knight Lightsaber:
Padawan for a basic install, with a chassis mainly focused on securing all your electronics. It has MultiBoards Adaptive Chassis to allow all major Plecter Labs and NEC soundboards to be installed (slot for CEx included).
Master with crystal chamber parts that can be printed in metal for the best reveal effect. Exists in various style according to the soundboard chosen.


Prices: From approx $125
Additional cost depending on material (Typical setup with metal approx $200).
Install Level: Advanced

Style1 => Plecter Prizm5.1 / NB
 Part 1 Style 1 – imperial-knight-master-part1-style1
 Part 2 – imperial-knight-master-part2
 Part 3 Style 1 – imperial-knight-master-part3-style1
 Part 4 Style 1 – imperial-knight-master-part4-style1
 Part 5 – imperial-knight-master-part5
 Part 6 Style 1
(optional crystals) – imperial-knight-master-part6-style1

Style2 => NEC I3 
 Part 1 Style 2 – imperial-knight-master-part1-style2
 Part 2 –  imperial-knight-master-part2
 Part 3 Style 2 – imperial-knight-master-part3-style2
 Part 4 Style 2 – imperial-knight-master-part4-style2
 Part 5 – imperial-knight-master-part5
 Part 6 Style 2 
(optional crystals) – imperial-knight-master-part6-style2

Style3 => Plecter CF9 
 Part 1 Style 3 – imperial-knight-master-part1-style3
 Part 2 –  imperial-knight-master-part2
 Part 3 Style 1 – imperial-knight-master-part3-style1
 Part 4 Style 1 – imperial-knight-master-part4-style1
 Part 5 – imperial-knight-master-part5
 Part 6 Style 1
(optional crystals) – imperial-knight-master-part6-style1



Prices: Approx $65
Install Level: Beginner
 Main chassis – imperial-knight-padawan-lightsaber-chassis


2- Additional chassis parts:

Most of the chassis parts needed for our chassis are available at The Saber Armory.
Local hobby stores or online store (as well as eBay) are a good source for parts.
You can also be inventive and add any custom parts, wire mesh, paint job or else to your chassis to give it an unique look!
For the Master chassis only, here is a list of parts needed to install it:
 1.5mm OD rods
 1mm OD rods

3- DIY empty hilts:

 Contact Phoenix Props or 7 Chambers

4- Electronic components and blades:
Saber electronic components are basically more or less similar from one saber to another. You’ll need a main Led, a Battery, a recharge port, one or two switches, a soundboard, accent leds, a speaker and wires. Then the blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip.
Again, you can find most of what you’ll need at The Saber Armory. Local electronic shops or online stores like Digikey are also a possible source.
Soundboard, the “heart” of our sabers is the Soundboard, here are the 2 major Soundboard producers:
Plecter Labs – from the entry level Nano Biscotte to the high end Crystal Focus.
Naigon Elelctronic Creations – from the entry level Spark 2 to the high end I2.
Master – Single 18650 (3.7v) for style 1 and 2 (NB, Prizm, I3), Single 18500 for Style 3 (CF9)
Padawan – Single 18650 (3.7v) or 2 x 18500 (7.4v)
⇒ Recharge Port, 1.3mm High Amp Recharge Port
 Battery charger, according to the battery voltage used.
 Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2 recommended
 Switches, tactile switches (example) with 1.5mm height – follow instructions.
 On/Off switch, slider switch (example).
 Speaker, 24mm Speaker
 Accent Leds, 2 x 5mm led for the Sith Master Crystal Chamber recommended (if RGB, read your soundboard manual to select between common anode or common cathode led), 3mm leds for the others.
 Wires, 30awg wires are mandatory on most our 3D Printed chassis. We are buying them from this eBay seller.
 Heat shrink tubing, to protect your solder joints.
 RICE port 
– a RICE port can be added with a micro jst port. Ex on ebay.
 1″ OD blade or 7/8″ OD blade



Work in progress

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Quick Install Guide: 

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Note 1: 30awg wires and smaller are mandatory for this install (30awg for main wires and 32awg  for accent leds and switches are highly recommended)…. Oh and definitely use colored wires to make your life easier.

Note 2: These instructions will not cover how to wire the soundboard, make sure to learn how to by reading the manual. make sure to test your install along the way! Checking everything works after important steps is better than having to dismount everything cause something wasn’t wired properly.

Note 3: GOTH-3Designs cannot be  held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers. Thanks!

Note 4: Recharge port wiring reminder:

Note 5: Multiboard adaptive chassis (Padawan).


The 1.3mm recharge port and kill switch are installed on the back of the chassis first.

Space is limited, as the 24mm speaker will be installed just behind them. It is necessary to cut a bit the recharge port back prong, as well as the kill switch prongs and have the wires soldered perpendicularly to them so that they will not come in conflict with the speaker.

The speaker must be glued as show below. There is a channel for wires to pass under it (it is recommended to have these wires pass all the way through the battery slot).

The battery can then be inserted (adding a bit of super glue will help securing it totally). It is recommended to have the battery wires exiting and soldered to the recharge port wires on the soundboard side as there is more space there.

Switch plungers are attached to the chassis and have to be cut away before installing the soundboard.

The crystal chamber inserts come attached together and need to be separated (cut). Crystal and accent led can then be installed on them as shown below:

The Part 4 attaches to the first insert as follow, and can then be added into the chassis. Super glue can be used to secure the assembly.

2nd insert is then added, with 1mmOD rods to align and secure everything (rods to be glued to the chassis)

Insert the chassis temporarily into the hilt in order to mark where the 1.5mm height tactile switches need to be precisely placed on the chassis dedicated rail.

Once everything wired properly and tested, add the plungers and slowly insert the chassis back in (it takes a bit of time to keep the plungers well aligned when inserting the chassis – patience required). Then test again!

The Crystal Chamber caps can now be added, first Part 5, as follow. The U shaped 1.5mmOD rod can be slightly glued if necessary.

Part 3 is a removable cap, that locks with the chassis, to access the SD card when removed. A 1.5mmOD rod is necessary to act as handle (install the handle before locking the part with the chassis).

Finally the led module can be wired and locked using the delivered retention screw.

Once done, assemble back the shroud and pommel.

Important: the thumb screw that locks the shroud also locks the chassis in the hilt.
– Leave the pommel on when revealing the crystal chamber (by twisting the shroud)
– Leave the thumb screw on when unscrewing the pommel to access the kill switch / recharge port.

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