– Return to Graflex Chassis Line-Up –

Parts Details:

1- 3D printed Chassis parts:

Variant M1:
Part 1 (Plastic – Recommended Black)
Part 2 (Plastic or Metal – Recommended Polished Bronze Steel)
Part 3 (Plastic or Metal – Recommended Polished Bronze Steel)
Part 4 (Plastic or Metal – Recommended Raw Brass or Bronze)
Part 5 (Plastic or Metal – Recommended Raw Brass or Bronze)
MutliBoards Adaptive Chassis card

Variant M2:
Uses the same parts as the Variant 1 except the following 2 parts:
Part 3 (Plastic or Metal – Recommended Polished Bronze Steel)
Part 5 (Plastic or Metal – Recommended Raw Brass or Bronze)

2- Additional chassis parts:

Chassis parts can be found in local hardware stores as well as on the web. eBay models shop is also a good source internationally to find small parts, check eBay model shops for instance: OmniModelsCave Spring Hobby, ……..
You can also be inventive and add any custom parts, paint job or else to your chassis to give it an unique look!
Here is a list of parts needed to install the above chassis:
⇒ 4-40 threaded rods x 2
 Hex nuts for 4-40 rods x 2
⇒ Brass or copper rods – 1.5mm max OD 
 Crystal – real quartz or get 3D printed double crystals: Crystal 1 and Crystal 2

3- Hilt / GRAFLEX Replica:

Not many replicas are available, but you can still find a few seller:
Roman’s Props Shop
⇒ The Graflex Shop

4- Blade Holder:

Here are the blade holders compatible with G3D chassis for Graflex:
 NerfworXlab most accurate blade holder – available at Solo’s Hold
⇒ The Graflex Shop

5- Electronic components and blades:

Saber electronic components are basically more or less similar from one saber to another. You’ll need a main Led, a Battery, a recharge port, one or two switches, a soundboard, accent leds, a speaker and wires. Then the blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip.

You can search these parts with the following suppliers: Solo’s Hold, The Saber ArmoryElegant WeaponsJQ-Sabers

Soundboard, the “heart” of our sabers is the Soundboard, here are the 2 major Soundboard producers:
Plecter Labs – from the entry level Nano Biscotte to the high end Crystal Focus.
Naigon Elelctronic Creations – from the entry level Spark 2 to the high end I2.
Battery, 18650 battery for 3.7v or 2×16340 for 7.4v.
⇒ Recharge Port, 2.1mm port is used on this chassis (kill key included in the chassis kit).
 Battery charger, according to the battery voltage used.
 Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2 recommended
 Switches, recommended on the blade holder: main tactile switch and slide switch (Ex Mouser), note that using switches under the clamp card is also possible but not detailed here.
 On / Off Switch, an optional on/off switch can also be installed (Ex: Digikey).
 Speaker, 28mm Speaker, either premium or bass
 Accent Leds, 5mm led for the Crystal Chamber recommended (if RGB, read your soundboard manual to select between common anode or common cathode led), 3mm leds for the others.
 Wires, 30awg wires are recommended on most our 3D Printed chassis. We are buying them from this eBay seller.
 Heat shrink tubing, to protect your joints.
 RICE port 
– a RICE port can be added with a micro jst port. Ex on ebay.
 7/8″ OD Blades (for NerfworXlab Blade Holder) or 1″ OD blades (for TGS Blade Holders).

 


 

Introducing MutliBoards Adaptive Chassis, a chassis part to hold them all.

Click on the picture below to see how to adapt it.

 


DIY Instructions:

Note 1: These instruction will cover the Plecter Labs Nano Biscotte install, however the MultiBoards Adaptive Chassis car will allow other soundboards to be installed. We do not cover wiring instructions tho, please read your soundboard manual before starting the install.

Note 2: We are using a TGS blade holder in these instruction, which install the same way as NerfworXlab blade holder. For TCSS one, refer to the Knight Chassis instructions first to understand the mods needed.

Note 3: 30awg wires and smaller are mandatory for this install (30awg for main wires and 32awg  for accent leds and switches are highly recommended).

Note 4: The install can be done with any of blade holder available. These instructions are done with NerfworXlab’s Blade Holder.

Note 5:  These instructions will details the install as much as possible. GOTH-3Designs cannot be  held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers tho. Thanks to read the full instructions before starting your install. Commission an installer to build the hilt for you, if you feel unsure about what to do.

Note 6: About the Kill Key. It is recommended to sand a bit the side of the kill key “on/off” slot, in order to make them more round and to turn better in the recharge port. (as a reminder, this slot allow to start / stop the saber without removing the kill key).

Note 7: Recharge port wiring reminder:


 

Step 1- Install the SC card access door. Since Steel material can slightly vary, cut the door as shown below until you have the best fit. Then cut the 1.5mm OD rod to the right length.

Notes: It is better to have the rod sticking out a bit in case you want to remove it later. We use a tiny drop of Super Glue to secure the rod.

 

Step 2- Choose the kill key. You have 2 choices for the Kill Key solution. Option 1: Direct access with metal Kill Key. Option 2: Hidden smaller plastic kill key behind hatch door.

⇒ Option 1: The metal kill key is an assembly. First cut the plastic part out from the main chassis.

Then you’ll have to adjust / cut this plastic part, so that the assembly fit your recharge port as flush as possible. This can be done later once the recharge port is installed. The first step is to assemble the Kill Key (without glue) and test it. If it sits to high, cut the kill key length down accordingly and reassemble it. Once it sits perfectly flush, redo the kill key assembly by gluing it.

 Option 2: This one is easier to install, use the second kill key available in the kit, and add the hatch door (shown later in these instructions). Note that the hatch door will not work with the metal kill key.

 

Step 3- Wire and install your main led.

Notes: As we use an old TGS Blade Holder model, the led hole is not wide enough for the Tri-Cree XP-E2 leds. We have expanded the hole using a Dremel, but this is not necessary on newer blade holders.

 

Step 4- Install the 18650 battery into the dedicated holder (we secure the battery  in the chassis using a tiny drop of super glue).

 

Step 5- Prepare you 4-40 threaded rods and cut them to the proper length according to the blade blade holder used. You would have to partially assembly the chassis part for that. On the picture below, you can see where we cut the rod (black mark).

Notes: Using a 3rd rod isn’t necessary, but you can still add one to secure even more the chassis.

 

Step 6- Assemble the led module with the soundboard module. The add the switch(es) wires.

Notes: To install the AUX slider switch that works with TGS and NerfworXlab Blade Holders (link in the electronic components section above), you can use small bits of the 1.5mm OD rods, to guide and secure the switch. You’ll have to mod the Graflex top in order to reduce the length of the slide switch inner tab accordingly.

 

Step 7- Insert the blade holder into your Graflex vintage or replica top, in order to position and glue the main switch. Then solder the wires to the switch. Do not glue the tactile switch directly on the metal blade holder, you have to insulate it.

 

Step 8- Assemble the CC insert 1 led and crystal (these instructions use the double 3D printed crystals available in our shop, they match the CC insert and have a slot to help insert the 5mm led).

 

Step 8- Add the Soundboard to the M.A.C. card (we use tiny drop of Super Glue to secure the board on it), and install it by soldering all necessary wires.

 

Step 9- Once the wiring is done and tested, you can attach the M.A.C. card to the battery module. Here you can see that all wires are hidden below the Soundboard, resulting in a clean install.

 

Step 10- Add the shell 1 to the assembly, there is a dedicated channel for all the wires. Continue testing your install.

 

Step 11- Add the shell 2 to the assembly, again there is a dedicated channel for all the wires.

 

Step 12- Add the 1.5mm OD rods to the assembly. On Variant 2, both side set of rods can be added when the Shell 2 is in place, however, note that on Variant 1, you have to add the 3 rods on Shell 1 side first, then add shell 2, then add the remaining 3 other side rods. As before, we use a tiny bit of super glue at the end of the rods to secure them.

Shell 1 side:

Shell 2 side:

 

Step 13- Add the 1.5mm OD rods to the speaker holder module and glue them.

 

Step 14- Add the 5mm crystal chamber accent led to CC Insert 2, and wire it as shown in the picture below. Pass the other wires through the dedicated channel as well (temporarily inserted CC insert 2 into Shell 2).

 

Step 15- Wire and install the recharge port in the speaker module. You have to cut the leads of the port to make it easier to insert it. We also add a ring to the recharge port (usually sold with it), to make sure the port sit flush (important not to have problem with the kill key sitting to high.

Test again that everything works fine, especially the recharge port. (We have also added a red accent led aside of the recharge port).

 

Step 16- Now take out CC insert 2 and glue it to the recharge port module, taking care everything is well aligned and centered. This will avoid any rattle.

 

Step 17- Insert the above assembly into shell 2, pulling out the wires from the back using pliers will insert now wires get in the way and stay properly in the dedicated channel. Also check that the bottom fits fine.

 

Step 18- Add the hex nuts and secure the assembly. The space is pretty narrow, it take a bit of time to get this done. Make sure the rods are clean there, the nuts have to screw easily.

 

Step 19- Wire and add the speaker to the speaker module (securing the speaker with a tiny drop of super glue is recommended – make sure you have tested it).

 

Step 20 Depending on the style (ANH, ESB or TFA), vent the Graflex bottom and add the grips and D-ring. If you’re installing a Vintage, we would recommend to leave the Vintage bottom not modded and use a replica bottom to install the grips and holes… the way you don’t “destroy” an antique flash, can show people where the saber comes from and convert it / change styles immediately by switching bottoms.

 

Step 21 Assemble the chassis into the top flash. The red button might need some additional material under it to activate the tactile switch correctly (depending on the blade holder used). You can glue a piece of plastic under the red button for that.

 

Step 22 Shorter a bit the clamp fins, so that they won’t be a problem when revealing the back section. The clamp must slide over the chassis while still be able to attache top and bottom halves.

 

All done!! Congrats and enjoy 😉

 

Loading...
Facebook Messenger for Wordpress