Detailed chassis with metal Shells and Crystal Chamber. DIY kit with various parts to assemble.
The Crystal Chamber is available in 2 different Styles (with or without Power Gate).
Compatible with all current major soundboards with the “MutliBoards Adaptive Chassis” design (inlcuding Teensy Saber V3 using an adapter).
NEW DESIGN 2018
Style 1: The Crystal Chamber contains a Power Gate to focus the energy between the crystals
Style 2: Open crystal chamber without Power Gate.
Prices: From $200 (depending on materials used – approx $290 with steel shell and brass CC inserts).
Install Level: Intermediate
Style 1: Crystal Chamber with Power Gate
⇒ Part 4 – Shell 2 (Plastic or Metal)
⇒ Part 5 – CC Insert 2 (Plastic or Metal)
Style 2: No Power Gate / Open Crystal Chamber
⇒ Part 3 – Shell 2 (Plastic or Metal)
⇒ Part 5 – CC Insert 2 (Plastic or Metal)
Chassis parts can be found in local hardware stores as well as well as on the web like The Saber Armory. eBay models shop is also a good source to find small parts, for instance: OmniModels, Cave Spring Hobby, …
You can also be inventive and add any custom parts, paint job or else to your chassis to give it an unique look!
Here is a list of parts needed to install the above chassis:
⇒ 4-40 threaded rods x 2
⇒ Hex nuts for 4-40 rods x 2
⇒ Brass or copper rods – 1.5mm max OD
3- Hilt / GRAFLEX Replica:
5- Electronic components and blades:
Saber electronic components are basically more or less similar from one saber to another. You’ll need a main Led, a Battery, a recharge port, one or two switches, a soundboard, accent leds, a speaker and wires. Then the blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip.
You can find most of what you’ll need at The Saber Armory. Some components can also be found at The Saber Bay on Etsy. Local electronic shops or online stores like Digikey are also a good source.
⇒ Soundboard, the “heart” of our sabers is the Soundboard, here are the 2 major Soundboard producers:
Plecter Labs – from the entry level Nano Biscotte to the high end Crystal Focus.
Naigon Elelctronic Creations – from the entry level Spark to the high end I3.
⇒ Battery, 18650 battery for 3.7v or 2×16340 for 7.4v.
⇒ Recharge Port, 2.1mm port is used on this chassis (kill key included in the chassis kit).
⇒ Battery charger, according to the battery voltage used.
⇒ Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2 recommended
⇒ Switches, recommended on the blade holder: main tactile switch and slide switch (Ex Mouser), note that using switches under the clamp card is also possible but not detailed here.
⇒ On / Off Switch, optional. Ex E-Switch 500ASSP1M2QE on Digikey or Mouser
⇒ Speaker, 28mm Speaker, either premium or bass
⇒ Accent Leds, 5mm led for the Crystal Chamber recommended (if RGB, read your soundboard manual to select between common anode or common cathode led), 3mm leds for the others.
⇒ Wires, we strongly recommend PTFE wires, as the insulation is thin while still able to handle current very well. You can find them from this eBay shop for example. Use the smallest AWG size possible:
– Tri-Cree install => 30awg for eveything
– Neopixel install => 32 awg wires for everything except Battery and Neopixel strip + and – (24awg PTFE).
⇒ Heat shrink tubing, to protect your joints.
⇒ RICE port – a RICE port can be added with a micro jst port. Ex on ebay.
⇒ 7/8″ OD Blades (for NerfworXlab Blade Holder) or 1″ OD blades (for TGS Blade Holders).
– These instructions will details the install procedure as much as possible. GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers.
– Always wear protective gear when working on install (gloves, eye protection, …), GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible in case of accident.
Note 1: These instruction will cover the Plecter Labs Nano Biscotte install, however the MultiBoards Adaptive Chassis will allow other soundboards to be installed. We do not cover wiring instructions tho, please read your soundboard manual before starting the install.
Note 2: These instruction has been recorded with the previous design. Some difference with the 2018 design will appear, but will not change the install steps.
Note 3: 30awg wires and smaller are mandatory for this install (30awg for main wires and 32awg for accent leds and switches are highly recommended).
Note 4: The install can be done with any of blade holder available.
Note 5: Thanks to read the full instructions before starting your install. Commission an installer to build the hilt for you, if you feel unsure about what to do.
Note 6: About the Kill Key. It is recommended to sand a bit the side of the kill key “on/off” slot, in order to make them more round and to turn better in the recharge port. (as a reminder, this slot allow to start / stop the saber without removing the kill key).
Note 7: Recharge port wiring reminder:
Step 0- Install the SC card access door. Since Steel material can slightly vary, cut the door as shown below until you have the best fit. Then cut the 1.5mm OD rod to the right length.
Notes: It is better to have the rod sticking out a bit in case you want to remove it later. We use a tiny drop of Super Glue to secure the rod.
Step 3- Prepare you 4-40 threaded rods and cut them to the proper length according to the blade blade holder used. You would have to partially assembly the chassis part for that. On the picture below, you can see where we cut the rod (black mark).
Notes: Using a 3rd rod isn’t necessary, but you can still add one to secure even more the chassis.
Step 4- Assemble the led module with the soundboard module. The add the switch(es) wires.
Notes: To install the AUX slider switch that works with TGS and NerfworXlab Blade Holders (link in the electronic components section above), you can use small bits of the 1.5mm OD rods, to guide and secure the switch. You’ll have to mod the Graflex top in order to reduce the length of the slide switch inner tab accordingly.
Step 5- Insert the blade holder into your Graflex vintage or replica top, in order to position and glue the main switch. Then solder the wires to the switch. Do not glue the tactile switch directly on the metal blade holder, you have to insulate it.
Step 7- Add the multiboards adaptive chassis to the soundboard used.
Step 8- Once the wiring is done and tested, you can attach the soundboard to the chassis (tiny drop of super glue are used to secure it). Here you can see that all wires are hidden below the Soundboard, resulting in a clean install.
Step 11- Add the 1.5mm OD rods to the assembly. On Variant 2, both side set of rods can be added when the Shell 2 is in place, however, note that on Variant 1, you have to add the 3 rods on Shell 1 side first, then add shell 2, then add the remaining 3 other side rods. As before, we use a tiny bit of super glue at the end of the rods to secure them.
Shell 1 side:
Shell 2 side:
Step 13- Add the 5mm crystal chamber accent led to CC Insert 2, and wire it as shown in the picture below. Pass the other wires through the dedicated channel as well (temporarily inserted CC insert 2 into Shell 2).
Step 14- Wire and install the recharge port in the speaker module. You have to cut the leads of the port to make it easier to insert it. We also add a ring to the recharge port (usually sold with it), to make sure the port sit flush (important not to have problem with the kill key sitting to high.
Test again that everything works fine, especially the recharge port. (We have also added a red accent led aside of the recharge port).
Step 16- Insert the above assembly into shell 2, pulling out the wires from the back using pliers will insert now wires get in the way and stay properly in the dedicated channel. Also check that the bottom fits fine.
Step 19– Depending on the style (ANH, ESB or TFA), vent the Graflex bottom and add the grips and D-ring. If you’re installing a Vintage, we would recommend to leave the Vintage bottom not modded and use a replica bottom to install the grips and holes… the way you don’t “destroy” an antique flash, can show people where the saber comes from and convert it / change styles immediately by switching bottoms.
Step 20– Assemble the chassis into the top flash. The red button might need some additional material under it to activate the tactile switch correctly (depending on the blade holder used). You can glue a piece of plastic under the red button for that.