⇒ Part 1 (Plastic – Recommended Black)
⇒ Part 2 (Plastic – Recommended Black)
⇒ Part 3 (Plastic or Metal – Recommended Raw Brass/Bronze)
⇒ Part 4 (Plastic or Metal – Recommended Raw Brass/Bronze)
⇒ Part 5 optional (Plastic or Metal Raw Brass/Bronze)
⇒ MutliBoards Adaptive Chassis card
Most of the chassis parts needed for our chassis are available at The Saber Armory.
Local hobby stores or online store (as well as eBay) are a good source for parts.
You can also be inventive and add any custom parts, wire mesh, paint job or else to your chassis to give it an unique look!
Here is a list of parts needed to install the above chassis:
⇒ 4-40 threaded rods x 2
⇒ Hex nuts for 4-40 rods x 2
⇒ Brass or copper rods – 3mm max OD (x 2 for Variant 1 only), 66mm lenbgth.
⇒ Brass or copper rods – 1.5mm max OD (x 2 for Variant 1, x 4 for Variant 2), 66mm lenbgth.
⇒ Crystal 12mm OD, 25mm length approx
3- Hilt / GRAFLEX Replica:
5- Electronic components and blades:
Saber electronic components are basically more or less similar from one saber to another. You’ll need a main Led, a Battery, a recharge port, one or two switches, a soundboard, accent leds, a speaker and wires. Then the blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip.
Again, you can find most of what you’ll need at The Saber Armory. Local electronic shops or online stores like Digikey are also a good source.
⇒ Soundboard, the “heart” of our sabers is the Soundboard, here are the 2 major Soundboard producers:
Plecter Labs – from the entry level Nano Biscotte to the high end Crystal Focus.
Naigon Elelctronic Creations – from the entry level Spark 2 to the high end I2.
⇒ Battery, 18650 battery for 3.7v or 2×16340 for 7.4v.
⇒ Recharge Port, 2.1mm port is used on this chassis (kill key included in the chassis kit).
⇒ Battery charger, according to the battery voltage used.
⇒ Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2 recommended
⇒ Switches, recommended on the blade holder: main tactile switch and slide switch (Ex Mouser), note that using switches under the clamp card is also possible but not detailed here.
⇒ On / Off Switch, optional for Variant 2 only. Ex E-Switch 500ASSP1M2QE on Digikey or Mouser
⇒ Speaker, 28mm Speaker, either premium or bass
⇒ Accent Leds, 5mm led for the Crystal Chamber recommended (if RGB, read your soundboard manual to select between common anode or common cathode led), 3mm leds for the others.
⇒ Wires, 30awg wires are recommended on most our 3D Printed chassis. We are buying them from this eBay seller.
⇒ Heat shrink tubing, to protect your joints.
⇒ RICE port – a RICE port can be added with a micro jst port. Ex on ebay.
⇒ 7/8″ OD Blades (for NerfworXlab Blade Holder) or 1″ OD blades (for TGS Blade Holders).
MutliBoards Adaptive Chassis 2.0
Note 1: These instruction will cover the Nano Biscotte install, however the MultiBoards Adaptive Chassis car will allow other soundboards to be installed. We do not cover wiring instructions tho, please read your soundboard manual before starting the install.
Note 2: 30awg wires and smaller are mandatory for this install (30awg for main wires and 32awg for accent leds and switches are highly recommended).
Note 3: The install can be done with any of blade holder available (TCSS, The Graflex Shop, Solo’s Hold). These instructions are done with TCSS blade holder, as it inserts from the top, it’s a bit more complicated. Solo’s Hold or The Graflex Shop blade holders insert from the bottom, making the install much easier!
Note 4: This instructions will details the install as much as possible. GOTH-3Designs cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers tho. Thanks to read the full instructions before starting your install. Commission an installer to build the hilt for you, if you feel unsure about what to do.
Note 5: About the Kill Key. It is recommended to sand a bit the side of the kill key “on/off” slot, in order to make them more round and to turn better in the recharge port. (as a reminder, this slot allow to start / stop the saber without removing the kill key).
Note 6: Recharge port wiring reminder:
Step 0- About TCSS blade holder. Skip if you use TGS or SH blade holders.
Mod: TCSS blade holder is longer than the others (Solo’s Hold or The Graflex Shop), but such extra length is really not necessary. While this is optional, it is recommended to shorten this blade holder (using a dremel for example). Recommended blade holder length is 63,23mm to work best with my chassis (this is the length of TGS and SH blade holders).
You’ll then need to drill the holes further and tap them again with a 4-40 tap
Step 1- Prepare you threaded rods. Cut the rods to the proper length according to the blade holder you use. There is a stopper at the end of the chassis, so you will see what length to cut to make it fit properly with the blade holder
Notes: Using a 3rd rod isn’t necessary, but you can still add one to secure even more the chassis (only with SH and TGS blade holder).
Step 2- Wire and install your main led. Also add the 2 wires for the main switch (and install your Aux slider switch if any).
Step 3- Install your battery. It is recommended to slightly glue it to secure it to the chassis.
Step 4- Add the soundboard to the Multipass card. It is also recommended to slightly glue the soundboard (a tiny drop of super glue is enough and will still allow the board to be removed).
Step 5- Wire and install your 28mm speaker (bass or premium).
Step 6- Wire the recharge port (and optional accent leds). Then insert them into the speaker module.
Tips: Cut the lead on the recharge port to make it shorter.
Step 7- Prepare your Crystal Chamber 5mm led, wire it and make the bunch of wires into something well organized to go through the dedicated channel/tube in the Crystal Chamber module.
Step 8- Assemble both Speaker and Crystal Chamber modules.
Install the 5mm accent led for the Crystal while doing so.
Tips: You can slightly glue both module together, using the threaded rods as help (not too much, just to keep them together while continuing on the install). Better test your accent led, recharge port and speaker before doing that to make sure everything works properly.
Step 9- Add the extra brass/copper/steel rods and the crystal
Notes: I used clear hot glue to secure the crystal on the soundboard module side, cause my quartz stone OD was smaller than recommended (12mm OD). (it’s hidden, so no problem, just be careful, hot glue can be messy).
Step 10- Wire the soundboard. If you use TCSS blade holder, first install your blade holder into the upper half of the Graflex for the top (with the rods still install into it, as done at stap 1). If you have another blade holder, you can continue the install as stand alone.
Step 11- Add the Multipass card to the Soundboard module, and complete the assembly by sliding the chassis up to the blade holder. Of course, and again, test everything before doing so.
Tips: Use the sides of the soundboard module to stack your wires.
Step 12- Secure the chassis with hex nuts (I use the small ones sold at TCSS). The space is pretty narrow, it take a bit of time to get this done. Make sure the rods are clean there, the nuts have to screw easily.
Step 13- Wire and install the main switch.
Notes: I used a piece of plastic under the red button, so that it could properly make contact with the tactile switch I used (TCSS one).
Step 14– Shorter a bit the clamp fins, so that they won’t be a problem when revealing the back section.
Step 15– Add the grips and sound holes to your Graflex bottom (according to the D-Ring used, here we have an ANH style).