– Return to Graflex 2.0 Chassis Line-Up –

Parts Details:

1- Hilt / GRAFLEX 2.0 Kit:

 Available on Korbanth or TCSS.

2- 3D printed Chassis parts:

Part 1 – 2 items Battery + speaker modules (Plastic – best in Black): graflex2-0-master-chassis-1-7-battery
Part 2 – Shell 1 (Plastic / Metal – best in Polished Bronze Steel): graflex2-0-master-chassis-2-7-shell-1
Part 3 – 2 items Shells 2 (Plastic / Metal – best in Polished Bronze Steel): graflex2-0-master-chassis-3-7-shell-2
Part 4 – 2 items Shells 3 (Plastic / Metal – best in Black Plastic): graflex2-0-master-chassis-4-7-shell-3
Part 5 – CC Insert 1 (Plastic / Metal – best in Raw Brass or Bronze): graflex2-0-master-chassis-5-7-cc-1
Part 6 – CC Insert 2 (Plastic / Metal – best in Raw Brass or Bronze): graflex2-0-master-chassis-6-7-cc-2
Part 7 
– 2 items SB module + Kill Key (Plastic – best in Black): graflex2-0-master-chassis-7-7-soundboard

3- Additional chassis parts:

Chassis parts can be found in local hardware stores as well as on the web like The Saber Armory. eBay models shop is also a good source to find small parts, for instance: OmniModelsCave Spring Hobby, ….
You can also be inventive and add any custom parts, paint job or else to your chassis to give it an unique look!
Here is a list of parts needed to install the above chassis:
Retention screws – 6-32 set screws x2 (for the chassis and led module). Drill and tap are also needed. 
⇒ 4-40 threaded rods x1
 Hex nuts for 4-40 rods x 1
⇒ Brass or copper rods – 1.5mm max OD – Mandatory for the chassis assembly
 Crystal – ~10mm OD x 20.3mm length – real quartz or get 3D printed crystals: Crystal

4- Electronic components and blades:

Saber electronic components are basically more or less similar from one saber to another. You’ll need a main Led, a Battery, a recharge port, one or two switches, a soundboard, accent leds, a speaker and wires. Then the blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip.

You can search these parts with the following suppliers: Solo’s Hold, The Saber ArmoryElegant Weapons, JQ-Sabers

Soundboard, the “heart” of our sabers is the Soundboard, here are the 2 major Soundboard producers:
Plecter Labs – from the entry level Nano Biscotte to the high end Crystal Focus.
Naigon Elelctronic Creations – from the entry level Spark 2 to the high end I2.
Battery, 18650 battery for 3.7v or 2×16340 for 7.4v.
⇒ Recharge Port, 2.1mm port is used on this chassis (kill key included in the chassis kit).
 Battery charger, according to the battery voltage used.
 Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2 recommended
⇒ Heatsink / led module according to the blade holder (7/8″ or 1″)
 Switches, included with the hilt. For 2 switches install under the clamp card you can use our optional switch holder.
 Speaker, 28mm Speaker, either premium or bass
 Accent Leds, 5mm led for the Crystal Chamber recommended (if RGB, read your soundboard manual to select between common anode or common cathode led), 3mm leds for the others.
 Wires, 30awg wires are recommended on most our 3D Printed chassis. We are buying them from this eBay seller.
 Heat shrink tubing, to protect your joints.
 RICE port 
– a RICE port can be added with a micro jst port. Ex on ebay.
 7/8″ OD Blades (for stock Blade Holder) or 1″ OD blades (for 1″ Blade Holders).


NEW MutliBoards Adaptive Chassis (Feb2018):
For NB, Prizm5.1, CF9, I3 (and other NEC Soundboards)
Use an Xacto knife or equivalent to adapt the chassis (cut as shown below)


DIY Instructions:

Note 1: The Master Chassis is an assembly of various parts and requires a good install level (Advanced level, like all master chassis). It is not recommended for beginners. The install requires some tooling to mod the saber (as it is not fully install ready) and install the chassis. Tools needed are: hand drill, drill and tap 8-32, Dremel with cutting wheels, and flat sanfing wheels…

Note 2: The Steel material on Shapeways is a tiny less accurate than plastic due to the printing process and can require some sanding.

Note 3: 30 AWG wires are mandatory…. Oh and definitely use colored wires to make your life easier.

Note 4 These instructions will details the install as much as possible. GOTH-3Designs cannot be  held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers tho. Thanks ? . Read the full instructions before starting your install. Commission an installer to build the hilt for you, if you feel unsure about what to do.

Note 5: About the Kill Key. It is recommended to sand a bit the side of the kill key “on/off” slot, in order to make them more round and to turn better in the recharge port. (as a reminder, this slot allow to start / stop the saber without removing the kill key).

Note 6: Understand the mods to the hilt to be install ready

  1. cut a window (Dremel or mill) for the switch wires (/!\ not required if you use switches under the clamp card)
  2. retention screw (drill and tap) for the heatsink / led module

The location marked as 1 is where a window (or large hole) must be opened for the switch wires to pass through.  The location marked as 2 is where the led module retention screw is located. Note that this is the glass eye side.

Note 7: Recharge port wiring reminder:


 

 

Step 1- Plan all the wires you’ll need for the main led (and switch if using the red button as main switch). Pass the wires into the battery module, then insert the battery.

Notes: it is advised to add a little drop of Super Glue to secure the battery into the module.

 

Step 4- Wire and install the speaker into the speaker module. The speaker slides in from the top of the module.

Notes: Again, you can add a drop of Super Glue to make sure the speaker is properly secured.

 

Step 5- Join the battery and speaker modules. Wires should slide in and over the speaker. Press fit the battery module into the speaker module. By turning it a bit, you can glue the area shown on the picture and turn it back again in place:

Make sure the wires are properly positioned and slide fine back and forth (important for later in the build). There is little room there, just enough for 30awg wires (6 max for the led, 3 max for the switches, 2 for the battery).

 

Step 6- Add the Shell 1 part to the assembly. And test with the 1.5mm OD rod that they go through fine from one side to another (like the picture below).

Notes: sometimes, Steel material needs a bit of additional work (like opening up a bit the holes with a drill bit, as this material printing process is slightly less accurate than plastic printing).

 

Step 7- Add the CC insert 1, and secure the assembly with the two 1.5mm rods. We use Super Glue to secure the rods.

As we plan on polishing the steel material further, we’ve left out the rods like on the pictures below. If you don’t want to polish the steel, a bit of additional efforts will be required for the rods to sit tight and right without using the Dremel (see later steps).

 

Step 8- Prepare the 2 addtional 1.5mm rods. The soundboard module chassis enters until touching the CC insert 1. Cut the rod length accordingly.

 

Step 9- Prepare the 4-40 threaded rods, as shown on the pictures below.

 

Step 10- Sand / Polish the rods (and steel part if you want). We use a Dremel flat wheel (with 15000 rpm).

If you don’t want to polish the entire outer areas of the steel shell, you just have to sand down the rods carefully or install them with the right length as mentioned before.

 Notes: you can polish the rest of the shell parts to give a different (lighter color) look.

 

Step 11- Adapt the soundboard chassis module to the soundboard you want to install

 

Step 12- Wire and install the recharge port, in the dedicated slot of the soundboard module:

 

Step 13- Install the Crystal chamber accent led, and the add the soundboard (example with a NB3). Remember to test your install before proceeding further.

Notes: if using a Plecter Labs CF on this MultiBoards Adptive Chassis, there is no room left for the CC accent led. The led has to be installed on the other side into CC insert 1 (making sure no wires touch the speaker) or directly in the crystal. You can drill the 3D printed further to insert the led entirely into it for example.

 

Step 14- Add the upper shell 2. You start from one side and snap it on the other side (from left to right on the pictures below). You have to glue a piece of 1.5mm rod into the hole to secure the shell part with the chassis. Cutting the brace/supports inside that part can help gaining more room for wires. They are needed to support the Steel print but not necessary for the chassis structure once printed.

And again, use the flat wheel (or hand file) to polish the rod.

 

Step 15- Add the lower shell 2, and both side of Shell 3

 

Step 16- Get the soundboard module assembled. To do so you have to pull all the wires from above the speaker.

The led and switch wires get pulled again from the front, the remaining speaker and battery wires get stored around the speaker.

Notes: On the latest version, an additional 1.5mm OD rod hole has been added to hook the Shell 1 to the upper Shell 2 for increased stability of the overall assembly (same method as the rest, add the rod, glue it, cut and sand it).

img_4899

Test again the assembly.

Polishing the assembly further using a Dremel Flat Wheel is also possible at this point.

 

Step 17- Lock the chassis into the Grenade section using the 6-32 retention screw hole

 

Step 18- Finish your hilt.

(follow Knight Chassis install instructions from step 10)

 

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