– Return to Graflex 2.0 Chassis Line-Up –

Parts Details:

1- Hilt / GRAFLEX 2.0 / 2.5 Kit:

 Available at Korbanth 

2- 3D printed Chassis parts:


Part 1: Main part – Chassis shell => graflex2-0-knight-chassis-part-1-main-shell
(hold the battery and a 28mm premium speaker/railmaster or a 28mm bass speaker).
Part 2: MultiBoards Adaptive Chassis = graflex2-0-knight-chassis-variant-1-part2


Part 1: Main part – Chassis shell => graflex2-0-knight-chassis-part-1-main-shell
(hold the battery and a 28mm premium speaker/railmaster or a 28mm bass speaker).
 Part 2: MultiBoards Adaptive Chassis => graflex2-0-knight-chassis-variant2-part3
 Part 3: CC Insert 1 => graflex2-0-knight-chassis-variant2-part3
 Part 4: CC Insert 2 => graflex2-0-knight-chassis-variant2-part4

3- Additional chassis parts:

Chassis parts can be found in local hardware stores as well as on the web like The Saber Armory. eBay models shop is also a good source to find small parts, for instance: OmniModelsCave Spring Hobby, ….
You can also be inventive and add any custom parts, paint job or else to your chassis to give it an unique look!
Here is a list of parts needed to install the above chassis:
Retention screws – 6-32 set screws x2 (for the chassis and led module). Drill and tap would also be needed for the led module
⇒ ~2.8mm rod (brass or copper) x5

 Crystal – Crystal, approx 1″ max length, and 11mm max OD
Optional, get your crystal 3D printed! (4 versions available):
Ilum => graflex-2-0-crystal-ilum
Sith => graflex-2-0-crystal-sith
Kyber => graflex-2-0-crystal-kyber
Adegan => graflex-2-0-crystal-adegan

4- Electronic components and blades:

Saber electronic components are basically more or less similar from one saber to another. You’ll need a main Led, a Battery, a recharge port, one or two switches, a soundboard, accent leds, a speaker and wires. Then the blade is the last part of your saber, they are usually made from PolyCarbonate tubes + tip.

You can search these parts with the following suppliers: Solo’s Hold, The Saber ArmoryElegant Weapons, JQ-Sabers

Soundboard, the “heart” of our sabers is the Soundboard, here are the 2 major Soundboard producers:
Plecter Labs – from the entry level Nano Biscotte to the high end Crystal Focus.
Naigon Elelctronic Creations – from the entry level Spark 2 to the high end I2.
Battery, 18650 battery for 3.7v or 2×16340 for 7.4v.
⇒ Recharge Port, 2.1mm port is used on this chassis (kill key included in the chassis kit).
 Battery charger, according to the battery voltage used.
 Main Led, Tri-Cree XPE-2 recommended
⇒ Heatsink / led module according to the blade holder (7/8″ or 1″)
 Switches, included with the hilt. For 2 switches install under the clamp card you can use our optional switch holder.
 Speaker, 28mm Speaker, either premium or bass
 Accent Leds, 5mm led for the Crystal Chamber recommended (if RGB, read your soundboard manual to select between common anode or common cathode led), 3mm leds for the others.
 Wires, 30awg wires are recommended on most our 3D Printed chassis. We are buying them from this eBay seller.
 Heat shrink tubing, to protect your joints.
 RICE port 
– a RICE port can be added with a micro jst port. Ex on ebay.
 7/8″ OD Blades (for stock Blade Holder) or 1″ OD blades (for 1″ Blade Holders).

NEW MutliBoards Adaptive Chassis (Feb2018):
For NB, Prizm5.1, CF9, I3 (and other NEC Soundboards)
Use an Xacto knife or equivalent to adapt the chassis (cut as shown below)

DIY Instructions:

Note 1: 30 AWG wires are mandatory…. Oh and definitely use colored wires to make your life easier.

Note 2 These instructions will details the install as much as possible. GOTH-3Designs cannot be  held responsible for any mistakes made by DIYers tho. Thanks ? . Read the full instructions before starting your install. Commission an installer to build the hilt for you, if you feel unsure about what to do.

Note 3: About the Kill Key. It is recommended to sand a bit the side of the kill key “on/off” slot, in order to make them more round and to turn better in the recharge port. (as a reminder, this slot allow to start / stop the saber without removing the kill key).

Note 4: Understand the mods to the hilt to be install ready

  1. cut a window (Dremel or mill) for the switch wires (/!\ not required if you use switches under the clamp card)
  2. retention screw (drill and tap) for the heatsink / led module, you can choose 8-32 or 6-32 (or M3).

The location marked as 1 is where a window (or large hole) must be opened for the switch wires to pass through.

The location marked as 2 is where the led module retention screw is located. Note that this is the glass eye side.

Note 5: Also, you can watch these video for a step by step visual walkthrough by shoot2thrill468 => Let’s Build a Graflex 2.0

Note 6: These instructions mix the install of Variant 1 and Variant 2, as they are fairly similar.

Note 7: Recharge port wiring reminder:


Step 1- Paint your chassis (not mandatory).


Step 2- Prepare your battery, both wires on one side. (this is a test battery ont he following pictures).


Step 3- Prepare enough length of your colored wires (according to the soundboard you’ll use) for the main led and switches. And pass them through the chassis dedicated channel.


Step 4- Insert the battery in the chassis (being careful the wires stay in the channel).

Notes: make sure the wires can be moved back and forth once the battery is inserted (they must not be stuck), this is very important for later in the install, as you will need to pull the wires toward the top when inserting the soundboard module into the shell.

Tips: You can add a bit of glue to stick / secure the battery to the top of the chassis.


Step 5- Insert the speaker. Solder the speaker wires and bend them to pass above the speaker (sanding the speaker plastic a bit will help.

Notes: Sanding a bit the speaker plastic will help giving more space to the wires to pass through and slide unblocked.

Insert the speaker through the side, facing the bottom of the chassis (sound through pommel)

Notes: continue to make sure the wires (except the speaker ones) can move back and forth.


Step 6 – Variant K1 Cut and install the crystal chamber rods. You can first clean the holes from any printing dust with a 4-40 threaded rod, or a round hand-file.

Notes: Make sure the rods sit flush into these holes. They must not stick out. Once the fit is fine, glue the rods into the holes.

Insert your crystal and add an accent led to light it up. If the 3D printed crystal are chosen, they have the advantage to be press fit and have a 5mm slot to help in holding the accent led.


Step 6 – Variant K2 Install the crystal chamber. Start by cutting the rods to the right length. The holes have the size of a 4-40 threaded rods (2.8mm OD max approx).

Assemble! Start with the CC part 2, place it into the chassis module. Then add the bottom rod. To secure everything properly, we use tiny drops of Super Glue. Next, add the CC part 1 to the module..

And add the remaining rods. Then last part, add the crystal and the accent led to light it up. If the 3D printed crystal are chosen, they have the advantage to be press fit and have a 5mm slot to help in holding the accent led.

Notes: if using a Plecter Labs CF on this MultiBoards Adptive Chassis, there is no room left for the CC accent led. The led has to be installed directly in the crystal. You can drill the 3D printed further to insert the led entirely into it or you can install the accent led above the crystal (gluing the led) in the wire channel (as it will still be hidden).


Step 7- Install the recharge port (and RICE port if you use one). Depending on your recharge port model, use a drill bit to open up the recharge port slot.


Step 8- Wire and install the soundboard into the dedicated module. The SD card is always facing up, whatever soundboard model or variant is used.

For Variant 2, adapt your chassis using an Xacto style knife (and th template at the beginning of these instructions).

Notes: to install the soundboard, I insert the chassis module into the shell halfway in order to limit the length of wires.

Tips: It is obviously highly recommended you test your install (soundboard starting, sound, switches wires working fine, …) before proceeding further.


Step 9- Push the soundboard module into the shell. While pushing, you must also pull all the wires (so that they don’t get crammed in the channel or over the soundboard). The led wires must be pulled from the battery side and the Speaker and Battery wires from the slot above the speaker.

And lock the module into the shell. The speaker wires and battery wires can now be hidden by inserting them back behind the speaker. Then test again.


Step 10- Wire the main led. First, get the switch wires into the channel and then the led module doesn’t have to be attached to the chassis.


Step 11- Insert the chassis in the grenade section. Lock the chassis with the 6-32 retention screw (hole already present in the threaded area of the grenade section). Pull the switch wires out through the open window. Channel the switch wired through this hole so that they won’t get caught when inserting the shroud.

Push the led module down and lock it with the 2nd retention screw. And add the shroud, lock it just using this screw for now.


Step 12- Install the switch. Cut 2 of the leads on the switch PCB (be careful to cut them on the same side). The switch has to be inserted from the bottom of the screw, while the red piece is inserted from the top of the crew. So you can only glue the button together inside the screw (make sure the switch is properly centered into the screw, so that the switch will sit flush and properly glued to the red piece).

Tips: It is advised to protect the switch (I used Nitto tape / heatshrink tape).

Screw the switch assembly back onto the hilt, taking care the wires are properly passing through the channel. Test again!


Step 13- Attach the grips.


Step 14- Properly align the round hole of the grenade section and the shroud. Then screw back the “side switch” screw, the red button screw, the clamp screw, the glass one (or second red button) and the brass pins.

All done!! Congrats and enjoy 😉


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